#1
Alright, I've been thinking about this a bit recently, and I decided I might ask the experts. Sometime in the future I want to convert my guitar with a floyd rose to be just like a regular hard tail (I'll use a Kahler 7300 non trem). My intention is to fill the cavity for the floyd rose with a nice tone wood (Thinking poplar, I like a bright tone, been told this is a good wood for the tone I want).

What I would do is take the bridge and associated pieces out from the back, then use uber stong wood glue to glue in a piece of poplar, filling the cavity. Then I would sand the whole thing down and repaint it. I can't see much of a reason why this wouldn't work, but I thought I might just ask. Also, will the fact I have agathis in the body ruin the tone of the poplar completely? (Even though I'll have the bridge sitting on a big chunk of it)

Any help appreciated.

No, I wont be doing this any time soon, but maybe in a couple of months when I've paid off my debt.
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#2
I've done this. It's pretty straightforward stuff. You might want to route the trem route square to make it easier to cut the pieces to glue in. As for what kind of wood you use, I don't think it matters, I seriously doubt it will sound significantly different, and more than likely you won't even be able to tell. There's no sense in buying expensive stuff for this, I'd say just make sure it's a hardwood. For glue, use titebond original.
AFTER you fill in everything there's the work of installing the new bridge. For a tune-o-matic, you're going to have to recess it for playable action (basically route out an area so it sits lower into the body), which I won't go into details here. You can cross that bridge when you get there.
Good luck!
EDIT: Unless you already plan on refinishing the guitar, then you should just buy a new guitar with a hardtail, because you're going to have to refinish it all over again, and that's a long process.
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Last edited by salsawords at Aug 29, 2009,
#3
Quote by salsawords
I've done this. It's pretty straightforward stuff. You might want to route the trem route square to make it easier to cut the pieces to glue in. As for what kind of wood you use, I don't think it matters, I seriously doubt it will sound significantly different, and more than likely you won't even be able to tell. There's no sense in buying expensive stuff for this, I'd say just make sure it's a hardwood. For glue, use titebond original.
AFTER you fill in everything there's the work of installing the new bridge. For a tune-o-matic, you're going to have to recess it for playable action (basically route out an area so it sits lower into the body), which I won't go into details here. You can cross that bridge when you get there.
Good luck!
EDIT: Unless you already plan on refinishing the guitar, then you should just buy a new guitar with a hardtail, because you're going to have to refinish it all over again, and that's a long process.


I'll be installing a Kahler 7300, which I believe needs either no, or very little routing, from the pictures I've seen it looks like it just bolts down to the body.

And I'd rather spend $300 on new parts and bring my $700 guitar up to scratch, than buy a very expensive guitar (I haven't seen any Flying V's with Kahler non trems on them, so I'm guessing I'd have to go custom).
And I've accidentally put a couple of scratches in the front of my guitar, so a refinish wouldn't be a bad idea.
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#4
The Kahler 7300 is a trem (and it requires routing as well), but regardless, the bridge installment is just a small fraction of the time it takes to do all of this. By all means, I encourage you to do this if you really want to, but I just want to be clear that refinishing is a lengthy process. It's a great learning process though.
You might want to check if you haven't already to see if the kahler can just drop in or not.
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#5
I think he means the Kahler 7330. (fixed bridge)
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#6
Quote by blindsagacity
I think he means the Kahler 7330. (fixed bridge)

Then it'll be a refinishing I suppose.
From DC eh? I'm from Maryland. I bet you love gogo music too right?
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#7
Quote by blindsagacity
I think he means the Kahler 7330. (fixed bridge)


yeah mate, cheers.


Thanks for the advice, Salsa.

Btw, love your strat job.
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Hartke HA3500 Combo
#8
Quote by Jesstaa
yeah mate, cheers.


Thanks for the advice, Salsa.

Btw, love your strat job.

Thanks man! Hopefully I'll be finishing up soon.
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#9
Quote by salsawords
Thanks man! Hopefully I'll be finishing up soon.

Brutal
*sticks it*

You should check out my strat re-doing once I get around to it, nothing as cool as yours, but it should be fun. Might even attempt the trem cavity filling on my strat, then just bolt down the strat bridge onto the body, from the top it'd hide the new piece of wood pretty well, and nobody is gonna look at the back. And I could just drill holes down through the wood with some ferrules on the back...

I think I'm getting onto something here =D
My Gear
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Stagg BC300
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Marshall JCM900 4100 DR
Marshall 1965A
Hartke HA3500 Combo
Last edited by Jesstaa at Aug 29, 2009,
#10
Quote by Jesstaa
Brutal
*sticks it*

You should check out my strat re-doing once I get around to it, nothing as cool as yours, but it should be fun. Might even attempt the trem cavity filling on my strat, then just bolt down the strat bridge onto the body, from the top it'd hide the new piece of wood pretty well, and nobody is gonna look at the back. And I could just drill holes down through the wood with some ferrules on the back...

I think I'm getting onto something here =D

Sounds cool! I'd totally try to help you as much as possible. The only thing is I don't know if you'd be able to completely conceal the glued in block with the bridge bolted down.
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#11
Quote by salsawords
Then it'll be a refinishing I suppose.
From DC eh? I'm from Maryland. I bet you love gogo music too right?



I'm actually from Maryland too. The whole moshington thing is something my band came up with.
But, you'd be surprised, I listen to quite a wide range of music. Not gogo, but a lot of other stuff.


Back on topic, TS: you'll be absolutely fine. I'd say just route out the cavities to be square so they will be easier to cut the blocks to plug them with.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009
Quote by Shinozoku
You have a walnut stop sign banjo-tar signed by MAB

˙ןooɔ sı uosɐǝɹ ןɐǝɹ ou ɥʇıʍ ƃıs ɹnoʎ uı ʇxǝʇ uʍop ǝpısdn ƃuıʇʇnd
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You deserve an Awesome Award for Awesome People.
Seriously.

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#12
Quote by Jesstaa
Alright, I've been thinking about this a bit recently, and I decided I might ask the experts.
There are no experts here.

Anyway

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm




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#13
Quote by salsawords
Sounds cool! I'd totally try to help you as much as possible. The only thing is I don't know if you'd be able to completely conceal the glued in block with the bridge bolted down.


correct me if im wrong, but i think he was going to unscrew the block from the bridge
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#14
Quote by oldspice56
correct me if im wrong, but i think he was going to unscrew the block from the bridge

I know that part. I'm talking about the different piece of wood glued in.
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