#1
Hey guys, i've recently picked up the Bass guitar for my band and am actually really enjoying it. My inspiration is Justin Chancellor from Tool, i like the way he plays and the sound he gets, and i really like that u can hear the bass along side the guitar and not behind it (except when the music calls for it).


Im currently a poor college student but me and my band are VERY serious about what we do, which means investing money......Im working on getting a better job which means i'll be getting around $15 an hour.

I was wondering what Bass amp i should invest in that will give me some great sound tweaking options (so i can find "my sound") as well as not put an earth size hole in my wallet ^^.

I've looked at GK as well as Line 6 in store, but the GK was not the model i wanted and i think it was busted cause i couldnt get any of the knobs to really do anything except get REALLY loud....even when it was all the way down.

I've told you about myself and my wants, any suggestions or comments?
#3
I also am very inspired by justin, This is one of the coolest bass players that can play bass lines in key with the guitar, without just playing root notes following the guitar.

Anyways, i suggest getting a Mark Bass head, with your choice of cab.

A single large speaker is going to get you deep boomy bass tones, while you can still do this with combo speakers, you tend to get a better "slap bass" trebly sound when you use combo cabs.

I'm saving up for a markbass head, and a 4x10 cab, or a 8x10 cab.

You really wanna focus on the head I think, speaker cabs vary, but heads are the important part.

Also remember, dont rely just on your amp to get you the tones that you want - When playing bass, multi-effect pedals are a definate plus.

Ive been playing on a solid state amp with only 2 pedals (one DI, and one distortion) for about 2 or 3 years, and I just got a Multi effects pedal and it has tweaked my sound ALOT.
I definatly recommend one.
Treble>Epiphone Prophecy EX - MXR micro Amp - MXR Blue Box - MXR Fullbore - MXR Noise Clamp - Vox AD30VT
Bass>Ibanez BTB505 - MXR Blowtorch - MXR D.I. - Peavey MaxBass 700 - Peavey TVX410
#4
Thanks for the suggestions. I just looked at MarkBass and i was just wondering if it matters what head i get....Theres a few and they dont differ in price THAT much and i was wondering if they all sound pretty much the same, or does the $1200 one sound THAT much better than the $800 one?
#5
Youtube demos can help alot when that $400 dollar difference comes up...

The problem there, obviously, is thats THEM playing and not you, so it's really just trying your luck and seeing if you run across a sound you're in love with.

MarkBass is a good reputable company with virtually no problem spots though, so chances are you'll be happy with anything you get from them.

Trying stuff out is probably the best thing you can do... and don't be afraid to try everything.

I get AMAZING almost dead-on Tool tone from a cheap old as dirt ampeg and a Jazz Bass. Go figure, you just gotta try stuff.
#6
Ok, im pretty sure im gonna get a Gallien-Krueger 2001RB head.....but im gonna go try out Mark Bass amps also to see if i like them.

Im a total noob though when it comes to fancy stuff cause i've been money-less for most of my music career, so where can i go and learn everything i need to know about Heads and what kind of cabs i need and which ones wont melt with my new found 1000 watt head?

I also technically dont need a cab yet right? If i have a DI box cant i just run the head through that into the PA system? But will the powerful head kill the speakers?

See.....so many questions....where could i go to get them answered?
#8
The thing with Markbass is their amps are all very similar, but each provide different things. The Little Mark III is their basic model. The comparable model the that is the F1 which is basically the same with a digital power amp. Then there's the SA450 which is the same as the LMIII (solid state preamp and analog power amp (hence the SA)) but with semi-parametric mid controls (meaning you can select which frequencies the mid controls affect). The amp comparable to that is the F500, which is the same as the SA450, but with a digital preamp. Then you get in the SD800 and SD1200 (solid state preamp, digital power amp). These two will both be similar to the F500, but with more watts each. Then you get into the tube amps, which I don't know about because I dislike tubes. Basically, all Markbass' solid state amps are going to be very similar sounding, but you do pay for what you get, whether it be more watts, lighter watts, or more EQ selection. So that's kind of the deal with them.

Okay, as for amp and cab matching there's two things you need to be looking at. First is the wattage. Basically, you're going to want the heads wattage to be lower than the cabs power handling. Ideally though, it won't be too much of a difference, like 300 watts into a 350 watts handling cabinet.
The other thing is ohmage, which is electrical impedance or resistance or some other semantic term that doesn't really matter. The point is heads put out different wattages at different ohmages (solid state ones at least). For instance a typical head will say something like 300 watts@8 ohms and 500 watts@4 ohms (some heads can go as low as 2 ohms, but not many). Now, cabinets are rated at different ohmages, most are 8 or 4, some are even 2 or 16, but rarely. If you hook up an amp with two 8 ohm cabinets the total resistance is 4 ohms. If you hook up two 4 ohms it's 2 ohms total and a 4 ohm and 8 ohm is 2.666... ohms. The biggest thing to remember here is that you CANNOT go below the heads minimum ohm rating or else you WILL overheat the head. So keep that in mind when selecting cabinets and thinking about maybe future rig add-ons.

As for the necessity of a cab, you don't technically need one, but PAs don't always provide the best sound (especially when reproducing bass) and it's good to have that stage sound dialled in properly. At least in my mind.

I hope that answered your question(s)