#1
I'm getting a new tube amp, non master volume 150 watts all tube.

1. Can EL34B be changed to EL34s?

2. I have a 60 watt speaker and wondering if I can use this head if I pull two of the 4 tubes so it halves the wattage AND not turn the volume past .5 to 2?
Gear
Schecter C1 Hellraiser FR
1967 Ventura Les Paul Copy
Marshall JCM 2000 Dual Super Lead
#2
Quote by .Jamison
I'm getting a new tube amp, non master volume 150 watts all tube.

1. Can EL34B be changed to EL34s?

2. I have a 60 watt speaker and wondering if I can use this head if I pull two of the 4 tubes so it halves the wattage AND not turn the volume past .5 to 2?



It sounds a bit risky...
Wait.



Roger Waters - 12th May!
#3
You can't just pull two tubes and expect it to work. Few amps are designed to bypass empty tube sockets or malfunctioning tubes. You'll just break the circuit.
Also, the amp has over twice the power that the speaker can handle. Besides, 150W is only the RMS voltage. It can reach peak leves waaaaay above this value.

Conclusion: don't fucking do it

EDIT: just noticed that it's a Non-master volume. What kind of a sick amp is this?
#5
(Soon to be Marshal JCM 2000 or 900)
Soon to be cinders and ashes. Can we all come and watch it blow?

p,s, There's 2 Ls in MARSHALL
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#6
Whoaaa, don't do it, so many things will go wrong:
a) you can't pull out tubes and run your amp unless its designed to bypass empty tube sockets
b) you'll be very lucky to not blow your speaker
c) I'm sure there will be impedance issues with such an awkward head/one speaker..
Main rig:
ESP Horizon FR-II
ENGL Invader 150
Mesa Traditional cab w/ v30's
ISP Decimator Pro Rack G
BBE Sonic Maximizer 482i

Back up rig:
ESP Eclipse STBC
LTD EC-1000 VB
Framus Cobra modded
#7
Quote by sashki
You can't just pull two tubes and expect it to work. Few amps are designed to bypass empty tube sockets or malfunctioning tubes. You'll just break the circuit.
Also, the amp has over twice the power that the speaker can handle. Besides, 150W is only the RMS voltage. It can reach peak leves waaaaay above this value.

Conclusion: don't fucking do it

EDIT: just noticed that it's a Non-master volume. What kind of a sick amp is this?


It's not a Marshall, Its a Bugera 1960, and YES! it is meant to be able to have tubes pulled ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdDfNq2Z0sQ&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fuser%2FRandyRhoads6235&feature=player_profilepage )
Gear
Schecter C1 Hellraiser FR
1967 Ventura Les Paul Copy
Marshall JCM 2000 Dual Super Lead
#8
Quote by Tensorspencer
Whoaaa, don't do it, so many things will go wrong:
a) you can't pull out tubes and run your amp unless its designed to bypass empty tube sockets
b) you'll be very lucky to not blow your speaker
c) I'm sure there will be impedance issues with such an awkward head/one speaker..


Impedance doubles from cab to head when two tubes are pulled on the amp (refer to post above with youtube link) So my 8 ohm speaker = 16 ohms on the head with two of the four tubes pulled.
Gear
Schecter C1 Hellraiser FR
1967 Ventura Les Paul Copy
Marshall JCM 2000 Dual Super Lead
#9
Well it seems you are well informed about your current dilemma sir, let me know how it turns out. I can be of no further use. Cheers.
Main rig:
ESP Horizon FR-II
ENGL Invader 150
Mesa Traditional cab w/ v30's
ISP Decimator Pro Rack G
BBE Sonic Maximizer 482i

Back up rig:
ESP Eclipse STBC
LTD EC-1000 VB
Framus Cobra modded
#10
From what I've heard, a 4 EL34 amp cannot actually be 150 watts RMS, so its probably more like 100 RMS.
Quote by progbass
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#11
Quote by acdclandon
From what I've heard, a 4 EL34 amp cannot actually be 150 watts RMS, so its probably more like 100 RMS.


There EL34Bs according to the Tone King on youtube. I'm a little skeptical of that number though......cause it'd equal each tube with an output t of 37.5 watts per tube....
Gear
Schecter C1 Hellraiser FR
1967 Ventura Les Paul Copy
Marshall JCM 2000 Dual Super Lead
#12
I guess thisd was kinda usless cause I thought about it, literly solid for an hour staring at the wall and had an epiphany. 150 watts Tube =/= practical


SO im gonna save for another 4 months and after Christmas but a Ceritone 50 watt JCM 800 master volume amp.
Gear
Schecter C1 Hellraiser FR
1967 Ventura Les Paul Copy
Marshall JCM 2000 Dual Super Lead
#13
@acdclandon - just cuz they rate something at certain wattages doesn't mean it follows those wattages. wattage rating is dependent upon a number of attributes: if the run a higher wall voltage and if they rate it beyond clean settings is just 2 possibilities. i am sure engineers know even more ways to tweek a little extra 'rated' wattage from a tube amp. but yes, typically a 4 EL34 setup is rated at 100 watts.

@Jamison: back in the day it used to mean something specific when you changed the name of a tube, mainly that the tube was designed for different operating specifications(think 6L6, 6L6GC). but now-a-days it seems like people add letters onto tubes with no repercussion(think EL34, EL34B, and EL34L). so if it is a modern tube, and the base tube number is something familiar with whatever the hell they want to tack on the end, then chances are it's safe. but if you went to a vintage shop and had a fender blues deville and thought you could change out it's "6L6's" with JAN NOS RCA 6L6's then you are in for a sad realization(first off you'll wonder why the old 6L6 is not in a glass tube).

and the whole "150 watts Tube =/= practical" thing, it is a fallacy that is tossed around ug like it's gospel but it is not. it is practical if you want an amp that has lots of headroom and can handle tons of low end. this is particularly desirable for slack tuned metal heads, as it helps keep the guitar tone from getting overly muddy. not practical for someone like me who actually likes the power section to become 'saturated'.
punk isn't dead, it's always smelled that way.

"A perfection of means, and confusion of aims, seems to be our main problem."
-ae
#14
Quote by gumbilicious
@acdclandon - just cuz they rate something at certain wattages doesn't mean it follows those wattages. wattage rating is dependent upon a number of attributes: if the run a higher wall voltage and if they rate it beyond clean settings is just 2 possibilities. i am sure engineers know even more ways to tweek a little extra 'rated' wattage from a tube amp. but yes, typically a 4 EL34 setup is rated at 100 watts.

@Jamison: back in the day it used to mean something specific when you changed the name of a tube, mainly that the tube was designed for different operating specifications(think 6L6, 6L6GC). but now-a-days it seems like people add letters onto tubes with no repercussion(think EL34, EL34B, and EL34L). so if it is a modern tube, and the base tube number is something familiar with whatever the hell they want to tack on the end, then chances are it's safe. but if you went to a vintage shop and had a fender blues deville and thought you could change out it's "6L6's" with JAN NOS RCA 6L6's then you are in for a sad realization(first off you'll wonder why the old 6L6 is not in a glass tube).

and the whole "150 watts Tube =/= practical" thing, it is a fallacy that is tossed around ug like it's gospel but it is not. it is practical if you want an amp that has lots of headroom and can handle tons of low end. this is particularly desirable for slack tuned metal heads, as it helps keep the guitar tone from getting overly muddy. not practical for someone like me who actually likes the power section to become 'saturated'.


Exactly, power tube saturation! Thats why im gonna get the Ceriatone man, so that i can get that nice sound/ levels for Band practice and Home use with the master volume.
Gear
Schecter C1 Hellraiser FR
1967 Ventura Les Paul Copy
Marshall JCM 2000 Dual Super Lead
#15
for good power tube saturation, i prefer my amps that use el84's and 6v6's myself, but that is for full on power tube saturation. EL84's have hardly any headroom at all but 6v6's have a sharper and more stable tone than an 84. a dual EL34 setup does have nice headroom, but can achieve very nice power tube saturation at a somewhat reasonable level. really, i like them all for what they do. the dual EL34 will get you around the block for a number of year with it's versatility, but keep in mind how different other tubes can act when your ready for an amp with a different voicing.
punk isn't dead, it's always smelled that way.

"A perfection of means, and confusion of aims, seems to be our main problem."
-ae
#16
Quote by sashki
You can't just pull two tubes and expect it to work. Few amps are designed to bypass empty tube sockets or malfunctioning tubes. You'll just break the circuit.
Also, the amp has over twice the power that the speaker can handle. Besides, 150W is only the RMS voltage. It can reach peak leves waaaaay above this value.

Conclusion: don't fucking do it

EDIT: just noticed that it's a Non-master volume. What kind of a sick amp is this?


You can pull 2 of 4 power tubes in any push/pull configuration amp, provided you pull to two inner or two outer. One of the oldest tricks in the book for getting slightly earlier breakup. In some amps you may have to change the fuse, and you will certainly need to rebias the tubes

Another choice for lower power is THD Yellow Jackets, which are adapters that allow one to run EL84s in place of EL34s or other Octal base tubes

As for the speaker "TECHNICALLY" you can do this, however I would recommend getting something with more power handling
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Last edited by Bloodshed at Sep 12, 2009,
#17
dude, never pull out the power tubes. the other tubes will suffer horribly, and will burn out almost instantly. it can also damage the amplifier. seriously, don't do it
#18
Quote by Lt. Shinysides
dude, never pull out the power tubes. the other tubes will suffer horribly, and will burn out almost instantly. it can also damage the amplifier. seriously, don't do it


Do you have any idea what you are talking about? I ran my Bugera on TWO KT77s for the last year. When I had my JCM900 I ran it on two power tubes as well.
Just make sure you pull either the 1st and 4th or the 2nd and 3rd. Don't pull the first and third. Adjust the bias and, in some cases, swap a fuse and you're golden. It allows you to get more power tube saturation and drop some of the headroom for those who like power tube breakup
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Tap Tempo Tap Dancer of τλε τρπ βπστλεπλσσδ


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PM TehNez or IbanezPlayer27 to join.

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Last edited by Bloodshed at Sep 16, 2009,
#19
oh my....150 watts NON mv? Hope you enjoyed your hearing while it lasted....
I've bought, sold, and traded more gear than I care to admit.