#1
Just this past week, I got a call at work from my babysitter. On an already bad day, during an already rough week, she told me that my Gibby LP Studio got knocked off it's stand & the headstock was broken. Ouch. I felt as if my wife had just died. The break started just above the nut & ran to the 1st set of tuning pegs. It was a diagonal break & it didn't break completely off....the front of the headstock was still intact.

After doing a ton reading on the internet, I realized I just may be able to fix it, which was a relief. I got some Titebond Original, glued it & clamped for 24 hours. Although the break itself is fixed, I'd still like to at least attempt to fix it cosmetically. I'm ordering a few things from Reranch . com..... Gibson black paint, Nitro Spray, sandpaper, Finess It II, and possibly more. That leads me to my questions....

1) The crackline has some depth to it & I'd like to fill it. Should I use wood putty, lacquer sticks, something else?

2) Once I sand the finish off, fill the crack & sand everything level again, do I HAVE to use wood grain filler, or can I get away with a Sand & Sealer alone?

3) Anything else I should know?

Thanks for your help, guys.





Last edited by Confusticator at Sep 16, 2009,
#2
Uh thats Bad!!
I'm sorry for your loss. But i know nothing that can help you.
sorry
"A tout le Monde, A tout mes amis, Je vois aime, Je dois partir; These are the last words, I'll ever speak
And they'll set me free...."
#3
yeah, it's sucks. Still, at this point, all I can do is try to do what I can to get it as close to the condition it was in as possible.
#4
*wince*

Ouch. What you want to do is open up the crack enough so you can fit a glue filled syringe in there, inject as much glue as you can, spread it throughout, and clamp. http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/crack.htm
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Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#5
thanks, Oneblackened, but I've actually already done the gluing (the pictures were taken after gluing it back together), but am just looking for advice on fixing things cosmetically. I know that this question must get asked quite a bit, but I've read as many threads as I can find, even have seen the link you just posted (still, thanks), but still need a little more info.
#6
gibson black paint and gloss clear coat, give it two coats of paint and 4 of clear, wetsanding with like 800 grit sandpaper after each coat.
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Quote by Øttər
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They stopped asking
#7
Quote by AngusJimiKeith
gibson black paint and gloss clear coat, give it two coats of paint and 4 of clear, wet sanding with like 800 grit sandpaper after each coat.

800 grit and up.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#8
alright, 2 coats of paint & 4 of clear...with wetsanding. Do you know if wood putty would work to fill in the cracks, or should I use lacquer sticks? All that before painting, of course. Thanks.
#9
DO NOT use woodfiller, it will shrink over time...

laquer might work, or if all else fails, mix some wood glue and sawdust.

also, the 800 and up comment: true, ive gone up to 4000 on occasion...
Gibson SG Faded
Epi VJ Stack


Quote by Øttər
Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
They stopped asking
#10
Thanks, Angus...I actually went by HomeDepot twice today & also SherwinWilliams & that's all either of them had. I didn't get it & am glad I didn't. I'll just go ahead and get some lacquer sticks.

Once I sand everything down, can I get away with just Sand & Sealer, or do I need to use an oil based grain filler on top of it?

Another question...(yeah, I'm full of them, but would rather ask now & be prepared, than rush things & ruin the repair), do you think I should go ahead and refinish the entire back of the headstock to avoid pooling, or any other type of obvious line, or shouls I just go along the crack-line. I was hoping that since it's a solid black guitar & I'm using matching Gibson paint on a recent model that hasn't had time for the finish to really age, I could just go ahead and refinish about 1/4 inch on each side of the crack-line. What do yo uthink?
#11
id say refinish everything up to 2" around the crack, but you dont have to sand away the entire finish, just rough it up. oh and dont paint over or sand off the serial number.

it should already be grain-filled, so no need for filler, and sanding sealer makes using nitro a b****. so dont use either. use primer if anything.
Gibson SG Faded
Epi VJ Stack


Quote by Øttər
Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
They stopped asking
#12
If you're going to refinish the neck, you may want to strengthen that neck joint. I have a video and pictures on my web-site that show how to do this. After you have a break like this, the chances of it breaking about go up. If you use my method it will never break. You can check out the footage at Neck Repair
#13
Alright, so today I went ahead and sanded down the area around the crack. I ended up sanding most of the area in the hopes that I wouldn't have a noticable v-shaped line over the repair once it was done. Overkill? maybe...lol.

I'm trying to keep the line as straight as possible, but am scuffing the finish a bit on the edges. Once I paint the sanded area and am ready to spray Nitro, will the scuffs in the surrounding area be an issue? Will they just buff out during wetsanding & buffing?

#14
Oh, and by the way.....It doensn't look like I'm going to have to fill the cracks at all. Once I sanded, it basically disappeared. I can hardly see it and can't feel it AT ALL.
#15
Quote by Confusticator
Oh, and by the way.....It doensn't look like I'm going to have to fill the cracks at all. Once I sanded, it basically disappeared. I can hardly see it and can't feel it AT ALL.


are you sure it's still strong enough to support the strings though?
EH


"Show me war; show me pestilence; show me the blood-red hands of retribution..."
#16
Quote by eddiehimself
are you sure it's still strong enough to support the strings though?


I worried about that at first, but I went ahead and tested the strength by grabbing the neck in one hand & the headstock in the other & applying more and more pressure. It scared the $%^& out of me at first, but I put more & more tension on it & it seems sound. I know the strings must put a hell of a lot of pull on it, but with the amount of force I put on it, I don't see any issues.
#17
Quote by Confusticator
I worried about that at first, but I went ahead and tested the strength by grabbing the neck in one hand & the headstock in the other & applying more and more pressure. It scared the $%^& out of me at first, but I put more & more tension on it & it seems sound. I know the strings must put a hell of a lot of pull on it, but with the amount of force I put on it, I don't see any issues.


Are you sure it wasn't just a crack in the finish?

Regardless, I'd strongly encourage you to glue it up. Why take the chance?
Hi!

Sig Retired.
#18
Quote by la bamba
Are you sure it wasn't just a crack in the finish?

Regardless, I'd strongly encourage you to glue it up. Why take the chance?


It was already glued with Titebond Original, clamped for 24 hours, and it's been another 4 days since. As of now, I'm just trying to repaint & clearcoat.
#19
Oh, and I'm POSITIVE it wasn't a crack in the finish. The whole headstock was opened up. The pics in the original post were taken after it was glued back together.
#20
Looking good man. Whatever you do, do not rush things from here on in. Be patient and do the finish properly!
#21
Quote by dandadog
Looking good man. Whatever you do, do not rush things from here on in. Be patient and do the finish properly!


"do the finish properly!".........exactly, and that's what my next set of questions revolve around. Well, actually, my last set of questions....lol.

"I'm trying to keep the line as straight as possible, but am scuffing the finish a bit on the edges. Once I paint the sanded area and am ready to spray Nitro, will the scuffs in the surrounding area be an issue? Will they just buff out during wetsanding & buffing?"

If you look at the pic where I've already sanded the back of the headstock, you cam see where I've scuffed at least the Nitro on the very bottom edge of where I've sanded (above the "bottom" tape-line". Will this be an issue, or can i get around it?
#22
I don't want to do anything else until I know what needs to be done to the scuffs around the sanded area. Anybody know anything? Should I just paint over it? Buff it out before painting?
#23
Alright, I just got my oil based wood grain filler from StewMac & should have the rest of my supplies today from Reranch....

Can anybody help me out on the questions I have? Trust me, I've read through a lot of information on this site, as well as a few others, but haven't seen anything addressing an area refinish like this. I just want to try to make the repair blend in with the surrounding area as much as I possibly can.