#1
Hi

I just got a new guitar yesterday, the Ibanez s320 - but, it is my first time with a floyd rose system. And i want to tune it for drop c, i have been able to do drop d with not so much trouble. But i have read here and there, that when you tune to drop c you need to change the tension and what not on the guitar.

There is on the back side, a little wheel i can turn on which got a - and +. - i know i need to turn it alittle, but i got doubts about how much and which direction.

And do i need to use another gauge string? - got the standard on now, which is 09 gauges i believe.

If anyone should have a guide for that, i would be greatful
#2
There's a floyd rose setup thread at the top somewhere. Dunno if it will help too much tho
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#3
I posted this in another thread and I think you should read it

Now, you're trem isn't a Floyd Rose, it's a ZR. Both Floyd Roses and ZRs are different (but simalar) kinds of "floating trems."


Quote by biga29
A floating tremolo is a tremolo that can be both pushed down and pulled back.

Where as a Strat trem (vintage trem) or a Non-recessed Floyd Rose, is a trem that can only be pushed down.

With floating trems you can't just change tunings, every time you change tunings you have to re-adjust the bridge itself.


You're guitar has a ZR, it is a kind of Floating trem. Most Floating trems have springs in the back that are connected to some screws. You tighten the screws to add tension to the bridge, and loosen to take tension. The reason you need to add and take tension from the springs is to because this (remember this). In order for your guitar to stay in tune, the bridge must be parallel to the body, otherwise when you whammy the guitar will go out of tune.

Ok, now the reason the bridge needs to be parallel with the body, is because this, when the bridge is parallel, this means that the tension of the springs, equals the tension of the strings. And the reason you need their tensions to be equal, is because when they are equal, you can do anything you want with the trem, and it will always return to the same position, thus, keeping the guitar in tune.

Now unlike other floating trems, The ZR doesn't have the screws, it has a little wheel which you turn to add/remove tension. The thing on your guitar the guy was talking about is called a "Stop Bar". It is also something that only a ZR has. What it does, is it "blocks" the trem, keeping it from being able to be pushed forward. when you take it out (it just slips right off), the trem will be able to be pulled back and pushed down.

When you take the Stop Bar out, it might un-adjust the bridge a little, so you'll have to make the necessary adjustments to keep the guitar in tune.

Look at the side of the bridge. If it looks like it is being pulled out of the body, then you need to add tension to the springs. If it looks like it's being pulled into the body, then you need to take tension away from the springs.

Just remember, every time you change tunings/or string gauges, and you don't have the stop bar in, you will need to adjust the bridge so that it is parallel to the body...


Wow... Sorry for the wall of text... hope it makes sense...

Edit: Be sure to read up in here. It'll really help you understand. And if have any future problems with the guitar (great pick BTW), just ask them in there, and we'll be glad to answer.



Turning the wheel to the "+" adds tension, turning it to the "-" takes away tension.

You will need to loosen the tension, because you are going to a lower tuning.

Now, here's how you should tune it.

Open it up and take the "Stop Bar" out if you already haven't.

(The stop bar is whats surrounded in red)


It just pops out, and now you're trem is "floating".

I would go up to at least a 10 gauge string.

Now, unlock the nut and tune the first string to a C. Now adjust the bridge using the wheel, until the bridge is parallel with the body. Once the bridge is parallel to the body, and the first string is tuned to a C, and will stay at a C when using the tremolo, then move on to the next string. Continue to re-string/tune/adjust one string at a time, until all the strings are tuned, and the bridge is parallel.

That was a lot of words... so you'll probably have some questions, just post back and I'll try to answer. Sorry if I repeated myself any, and sorry for the huge post...
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Last edited by biga29 at Sep 19, 2009,
#4
Quote by biga29
I posted this in another thread and I think you should read it

Now, you're trem isn't a Floyd Rose, it's a ZR. Both Floyd Roses and ZRs are different (but simalar) kinds of "floating trems."





Turning the wheel to the "+" adds tension, turning it to the "-" takes away tension.

You will need to loosen the tension, because you are going to a lower tuning.

Now, here's how you should tune it.

Open it up and take the "Stop Bar" out if you already haven't.

(The stop bar is whats surrounded in red)


It just pops out, and now you're trem is "floating".

I would go up to at least a 10 gauge string.

Now, unlock the nut and tune the first string to a C. Now adjust the bridge using the wheel, until the bridge is parallel with the body. Once the bridge is parallel to the body, and the first string is tuned to a C, and will stay at a C when using the tremolo, then move on to the next string. Continue to re-string/tune/adjust one string at a time, until all the strings are tuned, and the bridge is parallel.

That was a lot of words... so you'll probably have some questions, just post back and I'll try to answer. Sorry if I repeated myself any, and sorry for the huge post...


Thank you very much for your reply, and i will attempt it tommorow. But when i start removing that piece, what will happen if i decide to standard tune it ? - not thats it likely, since i have another but crappier guitar. but just to know.
#5
It won't matter, the only thing it does is keeps the trem from being able to be pushed down. Making adjustment easier, but limiting the trem.

just remember to make sure the bridge is parallel to the body and you'll be good.
You can call me Aaron.


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Out on parole, any more instances of plum text and I get put back in...
#6
usually im pretty good with setting up floyd roses but the zr pretty much has me stumped.

i changed strings to a thicker gauge but i was tuning to a lower tuning so i figured those would kind of cancel each other out. i went to adjust the spring tension and i run out of spring before the bridge is parallel with the body.

so i figured the springs were strong enough; you have to switch to a lower gauge string. so i changed strings again. i tried adjusting spring tension and i again ran out of spring to make the tension equal...

did i wear out the springs or something when i was with the thicker strings?

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#8
Quote by gebgebgeb
usually im pretty good with setting up floyd roses but the zr pretty much has me stumped.

i changed strings to a thicker gauge but i was tuning to a lower tuning so i figured those would kind of cancel each other out. i went to adjust the spring tension and i run out of spring before the bridge is parallel with the body.

so i figured the springs were strong enough; you have to switch to a lower gauge string. so i changed strings again. i tried adjusting spring tension and i again ran out of spring to make the tension equal...

did i wear out the springs or something when i was with the thicker strings?


interersting... this is the guitar im looking at getting, but i would have it pro setup for Drop D and most likely play other tunings on my hardtail guitar. However, for curiosity sake, what tuning is this?
#9
well i bought it second hand off of someone. when i got it, it need adjusting out of the box but it was ok afterwards. it needed new strings after a little while so i decided to get higher gauge strings for a lower tuning.

i put slinky heavey bottoms light tops and tuned to drop c. the spring tension wasn't enough to counteract the string tension. i tried detuning and removing all spring tension so i could maybe let the springs relax..or whatever.

i tried retuning and adjust tension again and i had the same problem. so then i did what i explained in the post before.

so first, it was slinky heavy bottoms, high tops for dropped c. then i put .010s on there for the same tuning and i got the same problems. if you had a pro set it up you could probably avoid my problem.

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#10
i use skiiny tops heavy bottom, but in Drop D, hopefully they work with mine when i get it
#11
Quote by biga29
It won't matter, the only thing it does is keeps the trem from being able to be pushed down. Making adjustment easier, but limiting the trem.

just remember to make sure the bridge is parallel to the body and you'll be good.


I just started tuning the guitar for drop c, i removed the stop bar and started replacing the first string. now i got the new string on it, and i managed to tune it to drop C2 with a chromatic tuner. but im not sure if thats right? - shouldnt there just be a C and not a 2 after?

And btw, there doesnt seem to be a problem with the bridge, it seems parallel with the guitar. but also on the back, the tension "-" its nearly at the bottom, it was like that when i got i, but maybe it wasnt installed correctly at the factory ? .

but when you mean parallel with the body, does that mean that the bridge shouldnt be sticking much up or? - cause it is a little and the string busses a little? - maybe i need to turn it further down the minus?
Last edited by JaX89dk at Sep 20, 2009,
#12
Spend like 10 hours, but now my guitar is in drop c and stays in tune - thank you again for your help biga.
#13
biga=floating trem guru. if you have any floating trem questions, you should ask him.
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