#1
So I'm going to do my first pedal mod sometime in the next few days. I just want to start off very, very simple, so I read about a one capacitor swap in my Boss SD-1 that will add some bass to it, which I've been wanting. According to several sources if I swap out the C3 position with a 0.1uF capacitor it will correct the lack of bass that these pedals are known for.

Three questions:

1. What do I need to know to make sure I get the right one? I'd like to just go to Radio Shack and buy one, if possible.

2. From looking at pics Here I am unsure how good I will be at working in such a small space. I am proficient at soldering and working with electronics, but never on such a small component. Think I will have trouble, or figure it out pretty quick?

3. In that pic the ends of each component appear to go through the board, as opposed to being mounted on it. Are these soldered to the back? So I will unsolder two small connections on the back, then remove the cap. Then I will feed the ends of the new cap through the holes, and solder them in place? Is there a right and wrong direction for this?
Quote by Cathbard
Quote by Raijouta
Unless its electronic drums.

BURN THE WITCH!!!!!
#2
Quote by tubetime86
So I'm going to do my first pedal mod sometime in the next few days. I just want to start off very, very simple, so I read about a one capacitor swap in my Boss SD-1 that will add some bass to it, which I've been wanting. According to several sources if I swap out the C3 position with a 0.1uF capacitor it will correct the lack of bass that these pedals are known for.

Three questions:

1. What do I need to know to make sure I get the right one? I'd like to just go to Radio Shack and buy one, if possible.

most places sell components in little individual baggies, with the value and voltage rating on it. we don't have radio shacks up here, but if they've got a .1 uF capacitor, it'll almost surely be labelled. if not, ask a clerk for help, and they should be able to direct you

also: look up 'capacitor codes'. it'll be easier than me trying to explain it here. basically, theres a 3 digit code on most caps, that tell you the value.

Quote by tubetime86

2. From looking at pics Here I am unsure how good I will be at working in such a small space. I am proficient at soldering and working with electronics, but never on such a small component. Think I will have trouble, or figure it out pretty quick?

if you open up the back of the pedal, and pull the board out (gently! ), you should have enough room. just be careful of where your soldering iron tip is ( so it doesnt hit other components or your fingers)

Quote by tubetime86
3. In that pic the ends of each component appear to go through the board, as opposed to being mounted on it. Are these soldered to the back? So I will unsolder two small connections on the back, then remove the cap. Then I will feed the ends of the new cap through the holes, and solder them in place? Is there a right and wrong direction for this?

yup, thats how they're mounted.

and yeah, the leads go through the board, and are soldered on from the back.

with C3, polarity (the direction you put it in) doesn't make a difference. as long as it's still soldered at the bottom..
Last edited by james4 at Sep 22, 2009,
#3
Thanks so much, I rarely see threads answered properly in one post. Well done.


(For extreme ego boosting, sig this quote.)
Quote by Cathbard
Quote by Raijouta
Unless its electronic drums.

BURN THE WITCH!!!!!
#4
Quote by tubetime86
Thanks so much, I rarely see threads answered properly in one post. Well done.


(For extreme ego boosting, sig this quote.)

nice try

but no problem

if you change C3 and find it to be pretty easy, have you got any future mods planed for it?
from my experience, the SD1's a really good pedal to mod, so I'd encourage messing around with the different mods from the site you linked
#5
+1 to everything James4 mentioned.

Another tip: When you flip the board over for desoldering, use desoldering braid.

You could use a bulb, but I find that braid works better in tight quarters like this.

Just lay the braid on the solder joint, and sandwich it between the iron and the joint.
If you're careful enough not to accidently suck up solder from neighboring joints, and watch out for overheating the board, it will look like a cap was never installed...
#6
Quote by Rutch
+1 to everything James4 mentioned.

Another tip: When you flip the board over for desoldering, use desoldering braid.

You could use a bulb, but I find that braid works better in tight quarters like this.

Just lay the braid on the solder joint, and sandwich it between the iron and the joint.
If you're careful enough not to accidently suck up solder from neighboring joints, and watch out for overheating the board, it will look like a cap was never installed...

+1 to this, as well.

I usually use a bulb/ solder sucker, but with something like this...I find desoldering braid makes it a bit easier, too
#7
Ya, another UGer had told me to use braid and some flux, so I will probably do that. Technically I understand what I'll be doing fine, I'm just hoping the execution is as simple. I have pretty steady hands, so I should be fine.

I will probably continue modding it if this goes well. I'd like to true bypass it, and maybe put C3 on a switch with a couple different values. I'd also like to play with some different diodes, but I figured I'd start simple.

If all this goes smoothly, I may step up to my Valve Junior next. Then eventually I will probably mod the East Coast of the US's power grid for better efficiency.
Quote by Cathbard
Quote by Raijouta
Unless its electronic drums.

BURN THE WITCH!!!!!
Last edited by tubetime86 at Sep 22, 2009,