#1
Hi, I currently have a mesa boogie stiletto deuce head (ebay is awesome) on it's way to me but I don't have enough cash for a mesa boogie stiletto cab 1x12 to go with it though. I wanted to make my own but I have never made a cab before so I need UG's help. I have looked at similar topics on the forum and these are my current plans.

I am going to make a 1X12 cab out of the dimensions of a real boogie stiletto cab listed on mesa's site.

I will load the cab with either a EVM12L(200watt) or a celestion G12K(100watt).


I wasn't sure what woods to use, I was thinking maple or oak (I need some input) I know baltic birch is used by most cab manufacturers.

I was going to make it closed back like the real mesa counterpart.

I would probably use some speaker cloth from a local audio shop (but tell me if there is something better) For the grill.

It will have finger joints and instead of tolex I will probably just use a wood finish on the wood of the cab. (Will this have any negative effects?)

I will use 16 or 18 gauge wire for the speaker and use a single mono input on the back. I've seen a few wiring diagrams online.


I know there are some really experienced users here so I was just curious to know if this would work and sound good?

Let me know whats works and what doesn't. I was just going to buy the wood from home depot and probably put some rubber feet on the bottom.

Thanks in advance!
1st Schecter 8er? in UG's 7 String Legion
Conklin GT-7
Hartke Hydrive 210C
Digitech Screamin' Blues
Bugera 1990 Head
Dunlop wah
Saxon snakeskin 1x12 cab
I Nouni
#2
you might want to play it safe and leave it open back, or partially open. those things are designed closed to very specific internal dimensions to account for the air movement the speaker causes. too little would cause in a busted speaker or bad tone.
#3
Quote by LP Addict
you might want to play it safe and leave it open back, or partially open. those things are designed closed to very specific internal dimensions to account for the air movement the speaker causes. too little would cause in a busted speaker or bad tone.



Ah Thanks I'll probably go open back then.
1st Schecter 8er? in UG's 7 String Legion
Conklin GT-7
Hartke Hydrive 210C
Digitech Screamin' Blues
Bugera 1990 Head
Dunlop wah
Saxon snakeskin 1x12 cab
I Nouni
#4
I'd recommend maple or even pine for the cab, and birch ply for the baffle.
Just because solid wood takes a much better stain at any routed edges than ply, and it's easier to finger joint.

Everything else sounds good.
#5
I'm also planning on building a closed back cab, 212 rather than 112 though. Would the dimensions listed here be the internal dimensions, or external?
#6
Quote by Rutch
I'd recommend maple or even pine for the cab, and birch ply for the baffle.
Just because solid wood takes a much better stain at any routed edges than ply, and it's easier to finger joint.

Everything else sounds good.


Thanks, I would use birch ply but I don't think home depot would carry it. I'm pretty sure home depot would carry maple or pine, wouldn't they? I was also wondering if I can use maple or pine for the baffle or do I need to use another wood?
1st Schecter 8er? in UG's 7 String Legion
Conklin GT-7
Hartke Hydrive 210C
Digitech Screamin' Blues
Bugera 1990 Head
Dunlop wah
Saxon snakeskin 1x12 cab
I Nouni
#7
Stick to man made boards for the cabinet. Any good quality ply will far outperform solid wood. Dont bother with finger joints it is a technique only suited to automated plants, use reinforced butt joints which are stronger and much easier for the home constructor and better sonically.

Ignore the advice about open backs unless you have confirmed with the manufacturer that the drive unit is suitable for this use. The air in a sealed cabinet acts like a spring on the back of the cone and prevents it popping out past its excursion limit. Open back designs have suspensions designed to limit excursion built in to the speaker itself.

Each speaker will work best when it is built into a specific volume and changing the volume will change the balance between bass and top end I calculated the sizes for the G12 a few months ago for someone else. if you decide to go this route I will try to find out if it is good for the cab you are proposing.
#8
Quote by Phil Starr
Stick to man made boards for the cabinet. Any good quality ply will far outperform solid wood. Dont bother with finger joints it is a technique only suited to automated plants, use reinforced butt joints which are stronger and much easier for the home constructor and better sonically.

Ignore the advice about open backs unless you have confirmed with the manufacturer that the drive unit is suitable for this use. The air in a sealed cabinet acts like a spring on the back of the cone and prevents it popping out past its excursion limit. Open back designs have suspensions designed to limit excursion built in to the speaker itself.

Each speaker will work best when it is built into a specific volume and changing the volume will change the balance between bass and top end I calculated the sizes for the G12 a few months ago for someone else. if you decide to go this route I will try to find out if it is good for the cab you are proposing.


Ah I see about the woods, where can i get a maple ply or birch ply?

I was thinking of doing a closed back for more low end.

I understand about each speaker being made for a certain cab but I'm not really worried about that as some flexibility would have had to be taken into consideration when designing replacement speakers.

But thanks for the info. I also found some blue prints to a theile cab or however you spell it.

One question though what should my baffle be made of?
1st Schecter 8er? in UG's 7 String Legion
Conklin GT-7
Hartke Hydrive 210C
Digitech Screamin' Blues
Bugera 1990 Head
Dunlop wah
Saxon snakeskin 1x12 cab
I Nouni
#10
The baffle can be any board but most people just use the same ply that the rest of the cab is made of for guitar speakers.
#11
Quote by Phil Starr
The baffle can be any board but most people just use the same ply that the rest of the cab is made of for guitar speakers.


Ok thanks, I'll just use the same wood. Do most hardware stores carry birth or maple ply? I might use pine if I have no other choice.
1st Schecter 8er? in UG's 7 String Legion
Conklin GT-7
Hartke Hydrive 210C
Digitech Screamin' Blues
Bugera 1990 Head
Dunlop wah
Saxon snakeskin 1x12 cab
I Nouni
#12
Don't get too worried about the birch bit, they simply make sure that the outside plies are birch because it gives a good finish. The grading system in the UK may well be different but what you are looking for is simply a good quality ply made to a grade which can be used for furniture or boat bulding which over here is described as marine ply. The only stuff to really avoid is the cheap ply designed for use as shuttering for casting concrete in. It is usually made of softwoods has a really rough finish and is full of air pockets. use 3/4" ply (19mm). Your hardware store should be able to advise you.
#13
Quote by Phil Starr
Don't get too worried about the birch bit, they simply make sure that the outside plies are birch because it gives a good finish. The grading system in the UK may well be different but what you are looking for is simply a good quality ply made to a grade which can be used for furniture or boat bulding which over here is described as marine ply. The only stuff to really avoid is the cheap ply designed for use as shuttering for casting concrete in. It is usually made of softwoods has a really rough finish and is full of air pockets. use 3/4" ply (19mm). Your hardware store should be able to advise you.


I found some russian birch ply. Not sure if its the same as Baltic birch but ya.
1st Schecter 8er? in UG's 7 String Legion
Conklin GT-7
Hartke Hydrive 210C
Digitech Screamin' Blues
Bugera 1990 Head
Dunlop wah
Saxon snakeskin 1x12 cab
I Nouni