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#1
Now I know I've only just finished my first build, but I've just finished school and in 3 weeks after all my exams are done, I'm not going to have much to do until my Uni course starts in March next year, so I decided to build another guitar!
Browsing ebay, I came across the sexiest piece of maple I have ever seen, from the same place I got the wood for my last build. Had a bit of a look around their items and decided what to use.
Here's the maple:



I bought it almost straight away once I saw it. Problem is its only 5 3/8" wide, so once its bookmatched there's still going to be a little gap when its used, so I decided to use a bit of the Sapele I'm getting for the body in between the 2 pieces of maple.

I havent decided on the final shape yet, but its going to be a DC of some kind (more like a SS/DC hybrid).

Anyway heres the specs:
Sapele body with Quilted Burl maple/sapele carved top
Curly Korina neck (fairly light figuring, nothing crazy)
24 fret bolt on neck with rosewood fretboard, Stainless 6100 fretwire
Direct mount Dimarzio Air Classics (nickel covers)
Hardtail (most likely Cosmo black Gotoh hardware)

I was going to try the Schaller Hannes bridge, but its too expensive! And hard to find in Australia.

Any ideas for colours? I was thinking a light blue stain (only on the maple) and everything else natural, or all natural.
#2
I was thinking a red stain. a DC would be cool, do it!
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#3
Yeah, maybe. I'm not really a fan of red guitars (except Candy Apple Red)
Once I get the wood and some stains I'll try out a few different options.
#5
As much as I love them, I dont really like that kind of DC. I was thinking more a PRSish style DC, but with longer horns and deeper cutaways (because of the bolt on and 24 fret neck)
I've done a few sketches and I'm getting close to the final thing, but I dont have a camera here so I cant post pics.
EDIT: What do you guys think of the maple?
Last edited by littlephil at Oct 28, 2009,
#6
The grain on that wood is orgasmic. I think it would look good with a purple stain.

I dont have a suggestion on what dc to build but that would look amazing as the top on a 335 style guitar
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#7
That wood is BEAUTIFUL! I'm looking forward to this.
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#8
Why not make it a neck through and use the burl as caps to the wings?




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#9
Quote by Absent Mind
Why not make it a neck through and use the burl as caps to the wings?

My other guitar is a neck through and it didnt turn out as well as I'd like. I'd rather make this one a bolt on so I can adjust things (neck angle) a bit to get it to play really well. The RG looks good, but it doesnt really play that well. And I'd just prefer to build a bolt on.
#10
that wood is just plain awesome.
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#11
man, i would hate to think what would happen if you tryed to play/pick up that (soon to be) guitar when/if you where high.... it would be like looking into somekinda 3d craazzzyy stuff....


but thats probebly the most figured piece of wood i have seen ever.
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#13
That burl looks awesome, the flame/ curl/ whatever looks like lightning strikes going through it.
#14
major props on the wood!

maybe you could do a brown burst with the natural wood colour in the centre. i think that would look good.

how thick is it? cause you could go an entirely different direction and make an ES-335. just cut it in half and use it for both the back and front. kinda like this. you wouldn't have to use the 335's exact specs. just adjust to what you have up there.
#15
excuse me i'm a noob and i have some questions. Is that full quilted maple or what ever? or is it just a layer?
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#16
Quote by iamawsomeguitar
excuse me i'm a noob and i have some questions. Is that full quilted maple or what ever? or is it just a layer?

Yep, the quilt runs all the way through the wood.
Quote by Sonic Blast
major props on the wood!

maybe you could do a brown burst with the natural wood colour in the centre. i think that would look good.

how thick is it? cause you could go an entirely different direction and make an ES-335. just cut it in half and use it for both the back and front. kinda like you wouldn't have to use the 335's exact specs. just adjust to what you have up there.

Its 22mm thick, so it'll be 11 when its bookmatched, but its definitely not wide enough for a 335, its 5 3/8" wide, not even enough for a full top. Plus I wouldnt be able to build a hollowbody/semihollow. I think I might just leave it natural, it looks great already, and with the sapele strip that will be running through the middle it will look nice, so I dont think I'll spoil that look with a stain.
#19
My guess is that it's heavily heavily figured birdseye with quilting.

I say go for a natural. Maybe a black to natural burst, with just the tiniest bit of black?
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#21
at first i saw phil's new build and i was like wait... when did i start another guitar?!?!?!

good lookin' stuff so far, though
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#22
that wood is brilliant.
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#24
0_0

the first fo sho.
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#25
If ever there was a guitar that should be left completely natural, it is this one. That figure has so many colours in it already, I wouldn't touch it with dye. If you feel you must do something, I'd do a very light amber burst as Jason said.

If you cannot refrain from colouring it, you should send it my way.
Last edited by cedricsmods at Oct 29, 2009,
#27


That, but stained blue on top.
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#29
Got almost all the hardware for it, and the wood left the US on Thursday morning, so it should be here early next week.

I cant decide what to do with the inlays though. I've got MOP dots, but I dont want to do the normal down the middle of the fretboard thing with them. I was thinking offset dots like with my RG, but I'm not sure about that either. I had a few ideas;
-Stagger the dots (start like normal offset dots, but work inwards to the 12th, both in the middle, then towards the treble side between the 12th and 24th)
-Alternate the dots (again, normal offset dots on the bass side to the 12th, except have one on each edge at the 12th, then continue along the treble side until the 24th)
-Alternate the dots again, but go bass/treble/bass etc along the length of the fretboard.

Anyone got any other suggestions? I can get pics of my ideas if anyone wants to see what I mean.

Also decided on the pickups, Dimarzio Air Zone in the bridge and Air Classic in the neck, both with nickel covers, direct mounted. I've never seen a guitar with direct mount covered pickups, so I'm going to do it!
Last edited by littlephil at Nov 14, 2009,
#31
Quote by Jason Jillard
solid ebony fb with no inlays.. maybey a tiny one at the 12th.

i think the simplicty of a balnk fb would really completment the complexity of the quilted burl.

I've already got a rosewood board, and I want inlays of some kind.
#33
My heart jumped when I saw that wood...

It was a feeling of anxiety, like the feeling you get when you have a 2000 word essay due in English tomorrow, and you have got no idea what the topic is.

Very sexy wood.
How do trees even grow like that?
That tree, that the wood came from, is the Megan Fox of trees.
..I was watching my death.
#35
Quote by Jason Jillard
no cuz megan fox is so hot its boring. theres no character in "perfection"

but this wood ahs so much character.


Ok???

I wouldn't say Megan Fox is "Perfection" though...

EDIT: What kind of wood is that in that picture from Warmoth?
..I was watching my death.
Last edited by timbit2006 at Nov 14, 2009,
#36
are you completely set on dots? if you are, you could do 2 instead of 1 for most of the markers and three instead of 2 for the 12 and 24 markers. it'd be a bit original. I do like the alternating dots idea though.

but, if you're not set on dots, you could do a sort of mountain inlay scheme. to match your top. in abalone maybe this would look like the heart rate monitors in the movies, but you could have it start going up and then peak at the 12th fret and then go down until the 24th fret. like...


________________/\_______
_________/_______________\______
___/____________________________\__
/_________________________________\

that didn't turn out great but it's the general idea... but if you put in more scraggly peaks and edges it could look really good.
#37
Or you could do only and inlay at the 12th fret. Like a bird (though that's been done so many times) or perhaps a handprint? Maybe like instead of dots you could do fingerprints.
#38
Use an offcut of that maple for the inlays and do an animal of some sort. That would be cool IMO.
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#39
Thats a good idea Robbo.
Pity I dont have a dremel.

Or the coordination to do such a delicate inlay. I'd probably end up with half the fretboard missing if I tried that. Plus I'd like to use dots, because I've already bought them, then put in another order to ALS for the stuff I forgot the first time, so I dont really want to do it again. Plus their at the opposite end of Australia so it'd cost me about $20 postage for a bit of abalone or pearl.
#40
Its here!
Got a big package in the mail today.
I know everyone says this, but the pics do not do this piece of wood justice.



Other side:


And without flash:

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