#1
I started my first build. I bought some Sapele wood from a lumber yard ( and have half leftover). I am building a two piece explorer.
I got the shape cut out and I am sanding right now ( which is taking forever with school) The only problem so far ( and its big) my uncle (who cut it out) was using a table saw for the straight lines. And he was looking at the top of blade while cutting. Unforunately the bottom of the blade is wider than the top and he overcut the back side of the guitar.
Lots of pictures below:
my guitar with my only tools- palm sander - hand sander - detail sander

Thickness 1 3/4 inches

The overcuts

The bottom

My plans (I can give anyone the template because I spent forever trying to find an official Gibson template)

Me guitar and me plans

Back side with overcuts

closeup of overcuts

My wood filler


-Andrew
Last edited by majasticmoose at Jul 15, 2010,
#2
Could be worse, but that's a shame you have to fill it. What neck wood are you using?

Also, massive on wood choice. I loves me some Sapele.
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#3
i am going to using a 24 fret bolt on. (Don't have enough money to build a neck, or skill)

Do you know if the paint will work?
- Andrew
#4
looks great so far.
Don't know about the paint, but could you please pm me the template... im thinkin an explorer may be my first build at the moment
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#6
awww, I'm so sorry about the overcuts

Looks great regardless though
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#7
You probably could, but I wouldn't use it. It looks to be a deck paint, which is gonna be sticky and uncomfortable to play on. I'd suggest a Tung Oil + Wax finish, although that's gonna show the overcut on the back.

I'm also a big proponent of silver burst finishes, but that would necessitate spray equipment, which I don't think you have.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#9
May I suggest getting some sawdust from the left over wood and mixing it through PVA and smearing it into the overcuts? might be less noticable?

Ps kudos on the explorer, another one of those shapes I hated now love. It's getting my thinking of a project for the holidays, hehe

And might I suggest staining it instead of paint? The Edge has a very nice natural explorer and that wood does look purdy
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Last edited by GuitarGetsMeSex at Nov 11, 2009,
#10
nice build, shame about the overcuts

could you send me the template as well, i cant find anything that is an actual explorer

thanks in advance
#11
Nice I too am sorry for the overcuts that your uncle made I agree about the sawdust and pva glue it would make it a lot less noticeable. Also may I get a copy of the explorer plans? I only have the esp explorer plans and would very much appreciate the Gibson template.
Thanks you, Shawn
PS I cant wait to see this thing completed!!
#12
Ok. I will pm you guys in a second. I am going to stain this guitar dark ( i think its called cherry) red. The paint was for gloss, but i will look into Tung Oil (can you stain and use Tung Oil?)

Thanks for the suggestion of saw dust and PVA glue. I have never heard of this. Isn't PVA just wood glue? So take that mix it with saw dust and apply to the surface of the overcuts. How easy is this to sand?
Thanks,
- Andrew
#14
Surprisingly easy to sand. It's most often used to fill tiny holes, like you have.

Sapele doesn't stain too well, it'll take a lot of coats to make it look proper. Tung Oil is used in place of the stain, and it helps bring out the natural colour of the wood. It also acts as a sealant, so you just need to wax it after, no lacquer or varathane needed.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#15
pretty wood!

paint the sides and back black, leave the front clear. I think that'd be cool.
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#16
That'd be cool, if the body was bound. If it's unbound, I don't know how that'd look.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#17
Quote by bv310
That'd be cool, if the body was bound. If it's unbound, I don't know how that'd look.

yes, binding.

cream or white.
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#18
All natural tung oil would make it look super ribbony and awesome.
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#19
You can use that paint, but I wouldn't, it's pretty cheap, it will go on really thick and damper your sound a bit. I used minwax oil based brush on polyurethane on the stratocaster I'm building, but if I had to do it again, I would use a lacquer finish. Lacquer goes on thin, and really lets the natural tone and looks of the wood come out. You can get lacquer finishes in a spray can, it's avaliable at Stewmac or from Reranch, and is pretty affordable. Stain your wood, apply a clear grain filler, this will fill the grain of the wood and give the clear a flat surface to stick to (grain filler can be purchased from the same places as the lacquer). You can spray many coats of the lacquer to build up and fill the wood grain, and then sand and polish it smooth, but really the less coats you use in the end, the better. Also, listen to the guy above that had the idea about making some filler paste using the sawdust, you could just use it on the top of the cuts, but it would match the wood perfectly.

I'm a big fan of explorers, I can't wait to see how this turns out.
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#20
Quote by GuitarGetsMeSex
May I suggest getting some sawdust from the left over wood and mixing it through PVA and smearing it into the overcuts? might be less noticable?

Ps kudos on the explorer, another one of those shapes I hated now love. It's getting my thinking of a project for the holidays, hehe

And might I suggest staining it instead of paint? The Edge has a very nice natural explorer and that wood does look purdy



Do it.

I finished a small part of a cllapsible stall like this. - I wanted to have my name on it but I wasnt sure how it would turn out to I carved my initialls out of the led and filled it with some darker wood dust. Then, after a small bit of sanding it looked BEAST. (The filled but - not my carving)

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#21
I think the cherry explorer look better.
http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/3/6/6/561366.jpg
Is there any way to use Tung Oil to achieve a cherry finish? (with or without stain)?
I like Tung oil because if look like the easiest to apply.

I wanted to have my name on it but I wasn't sure how it would turn out to I carved my initialls out of the led and filled it with some darker wood dust. Then, after a small bit of sanding it looked BEAST. (The filled but - not my carving)


Can I see a picture? That sound uber cool.
#22
Tung oil is just a finish. It's clear, or tints the finish not much at all. To achieve the cherry finish you need to dye or stain the wood, or even use a tinted finish over sanding sealer, then apply tung oil or lacquer, whichever you decide to go with. I'm not really sure which method is best for your wood, but I know that Reranch and Project Guitar have a lot of valuable information on the subject.
Gear:
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Vox AC4TV
#24
"Not for exterior use" means don't paint your house or deck with it. It's not weather-resistant sealant.
If you are aiming for red, cherry will be brighter and more reddish.
#25
Quote by cedricsmods
"Not for exterior use" means don't paint your house or deck with it. It's not weather-resistant sealant.
If you are aiming for red, cherry will be brighter and more reddish.



So it won't be like this finish. I am staining Sapele ( mahogany colored )
#26
Stewmac has a Mahogany colored tinted aerosol. Check it Out. It looks close to what you're aiming for. This would probably be a good option for you, I don't know whether or not your wood takes stain or die well. Just brush on some clear grain filler, spray your tinted lacquer until you get the hue that you want, then apply your finish of choice.
Gear:
1998 PRS CE 22-10 Top Natural Finish
MIM HSS Strat-Electron Blue
Vox AC4TV
#27
Quote by majasticmoose
So it won't be like this finish. I am staining Sapele ( mahogany colored )

I am just saying that I would go with Cherry stain instead of Red Mahogany.
#28
Good ideas you've been given so far. The PVA and saw dust should help conceal the overcuts (very unfortunate). The tongue oil will look really good on the wood, and protect it very nice. I use tongue oil on my necks. Give a great smooth finish that allows your hand to fly up the neck without catching.

If the cuts end up too noticeable, pick up automotive primer paint and clear coat in the touch up cans. that will give you a great finish and it's a lot more durable than regular spray cans.
#29
Lol Tongue oil....
Personally if I did the overcuts, I'd be tempted to do a solid finish or a burst, maybe a black to cherry burst to hide the overcuts at the edges?
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#30
i was thinkin the same thing as robbo. paint the back and sides black and do the cherry or whatever on the front with black burst around the edges.
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#31
Im building the same guitar but i cant find the plans/templates , can you please hook me up with them !
#33
I have better explorer plans you can PM me for, if people are still looking.
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