#1
Right guys, just really quick question before I break my last fuse and I know this sounds stupid.

Firstly, I have a mesa f-50 head with a framus 212 cab. Do i slot in the speaker cable in 8 ohms plug on the head right?

And secondly, how do i turn it on? I flicked the power onto on and then it just stopped working.

I know I sound like a total n00b but this is my first tube amp!
#2
always have the load (speaker cab) attached to the head when you turn it on... also, make sure you are matching the right ohms... if your cab is 8 ohms,then plug your head into the 8 ohms slot... then turn your amp on in standby mode for a couple mins, then turn standby off and play.. it should work

as for blowing fuses, i don't know how you are doing this... if you are blowing fuses tho consider yourself lucky your transformer didn't blow instead... it seems like you need to do some research before your next attempt otherwise you might be screwed out of an amp
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#3
If you are blowing fuses stop. If it blows one then there is a problem, don't just replace it. Take it to a tech.
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#4
You didn't switch it on without it being plugged into the speakers did you? If you did that all the current will have flowed through the head resulting in a fried amp. Also you've got to let the tubes warm up first before you start playing or else there will be no sound. There will be a standby switch for this. Wait a minute or two and then flick the standby switch to on I hope this helps
#5
Yeah, match your ohms like FightinIrish said. To turn on your amp properly, you start like this:

Then turn the left switch to 'ON'. Let the tubes warm up for about 1-2 minutes, then flick the other (the standby) switch so both switches are in the same direction
#7
Nope, I made sure that the cables were corrected in the right ohms (8) and that it was connected even before thinking about turning it on.
#10
Well the thing is, i turned it on correctly like everyone stated and the light did go on but it when off straight after.

Before I bought the amp, the thing was actually working because we tested it right there. It was perfectly when we tried it then. Since then I haven't touched so this is the first time for me turning it on.

I correctly placed into the right ohms. I even used a speaker cable instead of an instrument cable to make sure that there were no problems.

I called up the guy just to make sure I was doing it correctly and I did exactly what he told me to do, and the final fuse blew up too.

I think I'm going to take it to the amp tech to see whats the deal. Its a shame to have this experience though.

EDIT: To above, well it turned on and off so quickly so I didn't get a chance to see. But I'd imagine it would be working because we tried it very recently and this time is only the second time it has been on.
Last edited by Photograph at Nov 16, 2009,
#12
Unfortunately, I got it second hand so no warranty I mean the power tubes have a very very very slight gap between the base but I thought this didn't really matter.

I mean is it important to have the power amps to completely sealed and connected to the base?
#13
Quote by Photograph
Unfortunately, I got it second hand so no warranty I mean the power tubes have a very very very slight gap between the base but I thought this didn't really matter.

I mean is it important to have the power amps to completely sealed and connected to the base?



Oh god, I think I knows what happened, your shorted out your power amp sockets, so when you turn it on, it bypasses the tubes and goes straight to ground, which makes your fuse blow. Its an easy fix, but you'll have to have an amp tech fix it. Having your tubes flush up against the socket is very important to prevent shorting and arcing.
#14
From what i've seen on most tube amps, there's no gap between the tube and metal chassis of the amp, since the sockets tend to be seated inside on the circuit board.

However it is not uncommon for them to get unseated during transport. So try pushing them in and double checking they're not loose.

If you do that, do not use your bare hands to touch the tube as that can leave grease/sweat on the tube causing the tube to heat up more on that part which can ruin it.
#15
^ Okay well that doesn't sound too bad I guess lol I mean, I know I have to get new fuses but does this require me to get anything else? (Like new tubes?)

EDIT: That was for ethan lol

2nd EDIT: And yeah I was actually going to put them in with using a tissue without touching them. Kinda sounds stupid why I didn't. I can't even remember why I didn't
Last edited by Photograph at Nov 16, 2009,
#16
Sucks, but better to get it checked out rather than risk breaking your amp permanently
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#17
Any burning smell? Popping noise? Staticy sound? Or does it just instantly blow?

Double check you've got the right fuses, it's printed on the back on or under the fuse holder.

Wiggle the tubes back into their sockets.
Pull them out and look for scorching on their sockets.

FYI, I don't want to start a debate here (and it has the potential to be a big one, trust me! Start a new thread if you must.), but IN MY EXPERIENCE grab the tubes all you want, as long as they're not too hot. The concept of sweat or grease on a vacuum tube causing it to shatter from localized heat build-up is absurd. This is an issue on halogen bulbs, which get up around 500 degree F.
Occasionally I will careful where and how I grab one to preserve the paint on vintage tubes.
#18
Tbh it was really popping, its hard to describe, but its a sound you expect to hear like electronics to power down. Other than that, no burning smell or staticy sound. Yeah it did actually instantly blow.

Okay, i need to get more fuses because I haven't got anymore lol I'm probably check out those tubes but if i do see such scorching, what does mean?
#19
Scorching on the socket (usually) means there was an arc. Now that there's scorching, there's a nice trace of carbon across the socket surface, so it's even more likely to happen again. And there's still the matter of the underlying original problem.

Get more fuses, try re-seating the tubes, and try it again.

If it keeps blowing, take it to a tech, or if you're handy with a soldering iron and a multimeter, we could go through some basics.
#20
Hah, last time i did soldering back in my tech lessons, so I'm sorry :p And well I need to get more fuses for the amp so I shall probably re-bump the thread as soon as i got some
#21
Quote by Photograph
^ Okay well that doesn't sound too bad I guess lol I mean, I know I have to get new fuses but does this require me to get anything else? (Like new tubes?)

EDIT: That was for ethan lol

2nd EDIT: And yeah I was actually going to put them in with using a tissue without touching them. Kinda sounds stupid why I didn't. I can't even remember why I didn't



IDK, if your tubes are still good the prolly not. You'll find out when you get it fixed though. But there going to have to replace the socket seats, and mabey a few capacitors and resistors. Thats if the tubes didnt melt to the socket seats already

An amp tech should fix it right up, even if I am wrong.
#22
Well just looked everything up and still can't find any problem that I might have caused because of any stupid error. Well thats just my luck And yeah man, hopefully it is nothing too drastic.

How much you reckon the repair would cost?
#23
Quote by SwampAshSpecial
oh god... I think he fried the F-50


I didn't get that impression and why do you think it is funny?

Looks like Rutch and Ethan have this tread under control.

TS: Keep us posted, I'm sure everything will be fine.

PS: I actually grab tubes with one of those rubber jar opener dealies - mainly so I can get a good grip. Tissue would just make it slippery. Rutch is correct, the oil from your fingers is not going to do a damn thing.

PSS: It is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $40 per hour. So if you can find a friend or something to help you that is what I would do as long as you know what a capacitor can do if you touch it. If you do take it in, ask for a free estimate and put a cap on what it will cost before they have to call you and get your permission.
Last edited by 311ZOSOVHJH at Nov 16, 2009,
#24
Ahh my parents are deseperately trying to find the solution by themselves lol They seem to think that replacing new tubes would solve the problem.

Would that make any difference anyway? :S
#25
Quote by Photograph
Ahh my parents are deseperately trying to find the solution by themselves lol They seem to think that replacing new tubes would solve the problem.

Would that make any difference anyway? :S


It's a possibility, and a blown tube could cause these symptoms.
But since it worked fine when you tried it out before, we should hold off on running out and getting new tubes.

Maybe one of them bit the dust WHEN the fuse blew, but as far as WHY that fuse blew, I'm not blaming the tubes just yet.

I agree with Ethan that because the tube's loose in it's socket, that's where we need to look.

It's worth sacrificing a fuse to try pushing the tubes snug into their socket then powering on. Any damage is probably done, and you might get lucky.

If the amp was powered up with one or more pin connections on the tube NOT making contact in the socket, we can go out from there...

I'll look up some more possible culprits when I can get access to a schematic, I'm at work right now...
#26
^Nah man its cool, you've just been so much help, words can't describe my graditude to both of you.

I've got to go to sleep soon for school tomorrow so tomorrow I'll go push the tubes in. I just need a fuse to do it so I'm not sure when I can test it.

See when I think about it more, we did travel a long way to get the amp so maybe the tubes were loosened during the travel. Its a possibility tbh.

I just gotta find where to get these fuses x] The owner was kind enough to give me an extra one just because he liked me.
#27
Hey man, sorry to hear about your problems, but I hope you get it sorted out. Check the link in my sig for a WHOLE bunch of info on the F Series.
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#28
Durrrp?!
Looks like f50 schematics are no where to be found! WTF?! When did MB take all their schems down from the website?!?!



Anyway, I'm going to recommend just trying a new fuse with the tubes seated proper; anything else means pulling the chassis anyway. Not something to get into unless you're plenty confident, also dangerous...
Keep us posted!
#29
Quote by Photograph
Ahh my parents are deseperately trying to find the solution by themselves lol They seem to think that replacing new tubes would solve the problem.

Would that make any difference anyway? :S



Well, it should fix the problem for a few seconds, if it is a shorted socket. Then your out of $40. I would let the amp tech look at it first. Then go from there, let him disgnose it officcaly, then see if its a easily fixable problem. If its just tubes or an internal fuse, then you can fix that yourself. If the tube sockets are shorted, then let the tech fix it, trying to replace those yourself can get a bit troublesome.

When you get into the world of amp techs, price isent a option, there going to charge up to wazoo no matter what, since reparing an amp requires you to have alot of knowlage.