#1
Story: So I posted a few weeks ago that I got a used G&L ASAT Semi-hollow bass, picked it up from GC in Seattle, I picked it up completely ok, took it home and has barely gotten any play. About 4 days ago I took the strings off and the neck off to find the date it was made in the neck pocket, then reattached the neck and put on some new strings, and ever since it's had a bow to it, even after loosening the truss rod to the point where it's comming out of the top of the neck, the bow STILL barely straightens. I took it in to the best guitar luthier in town and he said that the neck is completely f*cked. I called G&L today about a replacement neck, they said it'd cost $500 for a new one. The bass is still very playable (the action is a bit high though). I am calling GC tomorrow to try and return it, I still have the reciept for it.

Help needed: I'm up for ANY possibilities on how to straighten the neck, since the loosening the truss rod doesn't do anything. Does anyone have any ideas?
G&L ASAT Semi-Hollow
Ibanez SR305 DX
Washbrun XB100 (modified)
Ibanez SW35

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#3
as long as you're sure you were turning it the right way (had to make sure, sorry), did you change string gauge or something?
I can't see why that would happen tbh.
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Okay guys, I have a confession to make. Not really a confession since it's something that's been bugging me for awhile but I've always been in denial about it.

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#4
Medium gauge strings, I believe that was the same gauge as before.

The neck is bowed in, as in it needs relief, as in the strings are high above the fretboard.
G&L ASAT Semi-Hollow
Ibanez SR305 DX
Washbrun XB100 (modified)
Ibanez SW35

Fender Telecaster (MIM)
Orange Crush 15R

Danelectro Corned Beef Reverb
Digitech Hardwire DL-8
#5
What exactly did said luthier say was wrong with it? In all the cases of bowing i've seen, a truss rod adjustment usually fixed it. Unless the neck somehow warped, though I don't see how it would from simply removing it.
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#6
The truss rod seem to not affect the shape of the neck if at all, I guess in that sense the truss rod would be broken.
G&L ASAT Semi-Hollow
Ibanez SR305 DX
Washbrun XB100 (modified)
Ibanez SW35

Fender Telecaster (MIM)
Orange Crush 15R

Danelectro Corned Beef Reverb
Digitech Hardwire DL-8
#7
I don't know a lot about this, but could you get a new truss rod?
Quote by UraniYum
Fuck you I'm trying to be caring and shit


Quote by Cb4rabid
Okay guys, I have a confession to make. Not really a confession since it's something that's been bugging me for awhile but I've always been in denial about it.

**** you gilly, it's not what you think
#8
If the strings are high above the fretboard when doing the "card test", it needs less relief. Get a capo and capo the 1st fret, then hold down the last fret. Try putting a business card or so between the fret and the string at the 7th fret. If it just about fits through, you have perfect neck relief. If it just falls through, you have to much relief and need to tighten the trussrod.
#9
Quote by gilly_90
I don't know a lot about this, but could you get a new truss rod?

I was thinking that, but I don't know anything about that either, or if it's even possible...

Quote by Deliriumbassist
If the strings are high above the fretboard when doing the "card test", it needs less relief. Get a capo and capo the 1st fret, then hold down the last fret. Try putting a business card or so between the fret and the string at the 7th fret. If it just about fits through, you have perfect neck relief. If it just falls through, you have to much relief and need to tighten the trussrod.

As I've mentioned before, it needs to be relieved but loosening the truss rod does not relieve the neck at all.
G&L ASAT Semi-Hollow
Ibanez SR305 DX
Washbrun XB100 (modified)
Ibanez SW35

Fender Telecaster (MIM)
Orange Crush 15R

Danelectro Corned Beef Reverb
Digitech Hardwire DL-8
#10
Quote by Helbent Revenge
I was thinking that, but I don't know anything about that either, or if it's even possible...


As I've mentioned before, it needs to be relieved but loosening the truss rod does not relieve the neck at all.


Sorry, I went to sleep last night before I got to answer you.
If you pulled the strings off bass without taking the tension off the truss rod that can cause backbow. A bass has a lot of tension pulling forward on the neck from the strings. The truss rod counteracts that tension. Once you take off the strings, you no longer have that tension pulling forward, and the truss can backbow the neck because there is nothing there to counteract it.

Try this. Loosen your truss rod completely. Tune your bass a half step higher than normal and leave it overnight. The extra tension might pull some relief back into the neck. The next morning if you still have backbow, leave the truss loose, and tune up another half step. Let it set for overnight again. If the bow isn't bad you should be able to get it out like that.
Last edited by Matt420740 at Nov 19, 2009,
#11
If you bass is still under warrenty, take it back. Let them deal with it.
If GC doesn't want to fix it, contact G&L directly.
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#12
If the action is higher than before hand then you must tighten the rod to pull then neck back so the strings are closer to the neck.
#13
Quote by Helbent Revenge


The neck is bowed in, as in it needs relief, as in the strings are high above the fretboard.



Your kind of contradicting yourself there. Before we can give you any real advice we need to clarify what your problem is. If the neck was bowed IN as you say, and the strings are really high, then you need LESS relief not more.

So is it in a back bow - this -

Or is it bowed forward - this -

If its in a back bow then use the method I recommended in my earlier post to try and get some relief.

If its in a forward bow then try tightening your truss rod.
#14
Quote by Matt420740
Or is it bowed forward - this -

This
G&L ASAT Semi-Hollow
Ibanez SR305 DX
Washbrun XB100 (modified)
Ibanez SW35

Fender Telecaster (MIM)
Orange Crush 15R

Danelectro Corned Beef Reverb
Digitech Hardwire DL-8
#15
Quote by Helbent Revenge
This



Then you have TOO MUCH relief. You don't need to loosen the truss, you need to tighten it.
Last edited by Matt420740 at Nov 19, 2009,
#16
Quote by Matt420740
Then you have TOO MUCH relief. You don't need to loosen the truss, you need to tighten it.

I thought the if it bowed the OTHER way you tightened it, I got my physics mixed up again, how embarassing >.<

Strange, how'd the luther declare it dead though, he's really good.

I AM tighting the truss rod now and it does seem to be improving, I'm going to work though but it should be close to normal when I get back.
G&L ASAT Semi-Hollow
Ibanez SR305 DX
Washbrun XB100 (modified)
Ibanez SW35

Fender Telecaster (MIM)
Orange Crush 15R

Danelectro Corned Beef Reverb
Digitech Hardwire DL-8
#17
Quote by Helbent Revenge


I AM tighting the truss rod now and it does seem to be improving, I'm going to work though but it should be close to normal when I get back.



Thats good news

Remember to adjust in small increments, and retune after each adjustment.
#18
Quote by Matt420740
Thats good news

Remember to adjust in small increments, and retune after each adjustment.

Yup, that's why I'm leaving it to look at it again after work to see how it straightens out over several hours. You get internet hugs too Matt.
G&L ASAT Semi-Hollow
Ibanez SR305 DX
Washbrun XB100 (modified)
Ibanez SW35

Fender Telecaster (MIM)
Orange Crush 15R

Danelectro Corned Beef Reverb
Digitech Hardwire DL-8
#19
The FAQ says to turn it a max of 1/4 turn and leave it for 24 hours then repeat
Quote by UraniYum
Fuck you I'm trying to be caring and shit


Quote by Cb4rabid
Okay guys, I have a confession to make. Not really a confession since it's something that's been bugging me for awhile but I've always been in denial about it.

**** you gilly, it's not what you think
#20
Quote by Matt420740
Then you have TOO MUCH relief. You don't need to loosen the truss, you need to tighten it.


+1

And please do not over tighten the truss rod. Do very small(1/4) turns at a time and then let the bass sit for a few hours. After letting it sit you can adjust it again. Do not make major adjustments to the neck unless you want to snap the truss rod.
#22
Quote by Deliriumbassist
In all fairness, the 24 hours is my personal preference, you can get away with much shorter times.


Fair enough. I've followed that advice exactly every time I've need an adjustment and it's worked perfectly for me, so that's how I'll keep doing it.
Quote by UraniYum
Fuck you I'm trying to be caring and shit


Quote by Cb4rabid
Okay guys, I have a confession to make. Not really a confession since it's something that's been bugging me for awhile but I've always been in denial about it.

**** you gilly, it's not what you think
#23
i get a feeling the neck was screwed back in wrong. Its very easy to do, especially if the neck pocket is constructed in a way that the neck cant sit in it without having anything holding it down. If you dont put it back in there completely flush with the pocket, you could screw it in a little crooked, resulting in a big neck bow, and scrwed up threading inside the screwholes on the neck and body. Ive dont this before, but it was on my old First Act, so it didnt bother me when it happened. When i had the neck sitting flush, it screwed right back in nicely and works fine now.