#1
So, in the interest of setting up my guitars to play as well as possible, and truly learn how to work with a floyd rose, I've decided to stop being a lazy bastard and put some extra care into the maintenance of my guitars . Now, I recently changed string guage and tunings on my Jackson DK2M, and have properly set up the string tension, as the bridge is perfectly parallel with the body when not being used. Unfortunately, I've got some killer fret buzz that is not an action-level issue, so it would appear it's truss rod adjustment time.

Now my question is, what am I supposed to use?! I've looked on youtube for videos on how to do it without screwing it up, and they all appear to be using either a specific truss rod key (like one that came w/my explorer), or an allen wrench to turn it. I've tried every allen wrench that looks like it would fit and none of them work!
So, for someone who would know, what size should I use? or do I need a different kind of truss rod key?

This is starting to piss me off, so all help is greatly appreciated!
- Gibson Flying V 120 #1 (White)
- Gibson Flying V 120 #2 (Cherry)
- Gibson SG Standard ('61 style)
- Jackson DK2M

- ENGL Fireball 60
- Avatar 4x12

- Many pedals, plus other stuff
#3
Soo, I've finally gotten ahold of the proper tool to adjust the truss rod with.
From what I've gathered, if you capo down the first fret, and hold the last fret down on the low E string, you should be able to fit a credit cards thickness between the fretwire and the string, but no more.
Since the initial test of this revealed that I needed to loosen the truss rod (mega fret buzz on the low E), I began to do so. What I'm curious about though, is exactly how much do I need to turn it? I've SLOWLY (to be careful) turned it about somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 of a full radius turn (in less than 1/4 turn intervals), but it still hasn't fixed it. That, and my action gets raised pretty high in the process.
I don't want to continue until I can get some more insight on this :/
- Gibson Flying V 120 #1 (White)
- Gibson Flying V 120 #2 (Cherry)
- Gibson SG Standard ('61 style)
- Jackson DK2M

- ENGL Fireball 60
- Avatar 4x12

- Many pedals, plus other stuff
#4
Only adjust in small incriments like you are...good job.....but between each turn you are going to have to re-adjust the bridge height(which will help with the action) and possibly the intonation depending on how much of an adjustment was made.
Gear
Jackson RR24M - EMG ALX w/ ABQ installed
Ibanez Xiphos - stock
LTD Alexi 600 - stock
Ibanex RG - Tone Zone(bridge), PAF Pro(neck)
Blackstar HT-20H
Fulltone OCD
MXR 10 Band EQ
#5
Quote by FlightofIcarus
Soo, I've finally gotten ahold of the proper tool to adjust the truss rod with.
From what I've gathered, if you capo down the first fret, and hold the last fret down on the low E string, you should be able to fit a credit cards thickness between the fretwire and the string, but no more.
Since the initial test of this revealed that I needed to loosen the truss rod (mega fret buzz on the low E), I began to do so. What I'm curious about though, is exactly how much do I need to turn it? I've SLOWLY (to be careful) turned it about somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 of a full radius turn (in less than 1/4 turn intervals), but it still hasn't fixed it. That, and my action gets raised pretty high in the process.
I don't want to continue until I can get some more insight on this :/



The credit card should be able to slide in on the 7th fret.

1 4th of a turn at a time is good. Let it rest for 10-15 minutes between each adjustment, and tune it up between each time. Before you start doing truss rod adjustments i'd block off the tremolo. It will need to be adjusted later propably, but tuning up a floyd each time you adjust is a pain in the ass.