#1
Do they have huge impact? Lke, If I had a Marshall Jvm and had a $300 cab, would a 1960a cab make my Jvm sound much better? Sorry, I'm new to cabs...this will be my first. Please help, thanks.
#2
False dichotomy. A $300 cab can sound much better than a 1960A. As Albert Einstein said, "Everything is worth what its purchaser will pay for it."

The 1960A cabs aren't great to begin with, but yes, cabs have a huge effect on tone. A shit cab will make you sound like shit.

By the way, you can pick up a 1960A used for $300 alot of the time.
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#3
Cabs have a huge effect on tone. In fact, according to the December issue of Premier Guitar, speakers/cabs can be as important as the amplifier you are using. However, don't go strictly by price, as some cabs are better than more expensive ones, without getting too specific.
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#4
Alright, so if I have a 50 watt amp, whats the ideal wattage I want for my new cab? The 1960a is 300 watts, is that good or bad?
#5
Quote by modirnwarfare
Alright, so if I have a 50 watt amp, whats the ideal wattage I want for my new cab? The 1960a is 300 watts, is that good or bad?

When you have an amplifier cabinet, the wattage of the cabinet must be at least as much as the amplifier, preferably about 125% of the wattage of the amp. The reason that the cab wattage should be greater then the wattage of the amplifier is because if the amp puts out more power then the speakers can handle, at best the cab will have speaker distortion, and at worst the speakers will blow.

The reason that you should have more power handling in your cab is that when tube amps enter power tube distortion, they can put out more power then their RMS rating.

Additionally, the Ohmage of your amplifier should be NO SMALLER then the minimum rating for your amplifier--it can be larger, but NEVER smaller. (eg., An amplifier running at 4ohms minumm means you can have any cab that has an equal or larger ohm value, such as 4, 8, or 16. You cannot, however, have a 2ohm cab running from a 4ohm head. If you do this, you can blow up your fuse, tubes and output transformer, not necessarily in that order.)
Last edited by imicius at Nov 27, 2009,
#6
You want at least as many watts as the amp, but preferably more to avoid speaker distortion. I think this also depends on the Ohms you run your cab at, which should meet or exceed that of your head. Someone else should answer this more thoroughly.
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#7
Quote by ibz_bucket
You want at least as many watts as the amp, but preferably more to avoid speaker distortion. I think this also depends on the Ohms you run your cab at, which should meet or exceed that of your head. Someone else should answer this more thoroughly.



Yeah, I've never used cabs, what is ohms on cabs, and how will I know what setting to run it at?
#8
Quote by modirnwarfare
Alright, so if I have a 50 watt amp, whats the ideal wattage I want for my new cab? The 1960a is 300 watts, is that good or bad?

It depends what style of music you play. If you play metal, you want as high a power handling as possible, so that would be good. But, if you play with a crunch tone, you wat something closer to what your head puts out so you get speaker distortion.



#9
Quote by modirnwarfare
Yeah, I've never used cabs, what is ohms on cabs, and how will I know what setting to run it at?

Ohms are a measure of resistance to current. In other words, the lower the Ohm value, the easier it is for current to flow from your amplifier to your speakers.

The Ohm value for speaker cabinets is almost always listed on the back of the cabinet. You should run your amplifier (if it is selectable) at whatever setting the cabinet says (eg. run your amp at 8ohm if your cab is 8ohms). If you have more then one cabinet, take the reciprocal of the two cabinets added together (2 8ohm cabinets = 1/8 + 1/8 = 1/4 = run your amp at 4ohms).

Quote by EMGPWNS
It depends what style of music you play. If you play metal, you want as high a power handling as possible, so that would be good. But, if you play with a crunch tone, you wat something closer to what your head puts out so you get speaker distortion.

Crunch is typically preamp/poweramp distortion. This is what speaker distortion looks like.
Last edited by imicius at Nov 27, 2009,
#10
Tone-wise, yes the Cabinets play a HUGE HUGE part in your tone. If we look into further detail, it's the choice of your speakers that really matter.

well, Cabinets can be split into two parts OBVIOUSLY.

Speaker Enclosure.
The most important part of a speaker cabinet enclosure is the durability.

Plywood appears to be the most effective material for making speaker cabs. Different types of plywood have different strength and durability. Baltic-Birch Plywood is the industry standard for guitar speaker cabinets. You just want to make sure that your speaker cabinet can withstand weight and withstand abuse. Other materials used include lower grade plywood, or MDF boards. These aren't so bad but low quality woods might be less durable and more likely to break with rough handling.

The joint that you use to put the wood together also affects how well it will handle weight and life-on-the-road. Some people believe in "half blind dovetail joints" or "sliding half joints" and all the fancy fancy stuff. Reality is, no matter what joint is used, you have to make sure it was properly done. A good way to test this (if you can) is to sit on the cab and rock back and forth. Check if the sides sway about. If they sway, you know they will break under weight. you also must make sure that the cabinet is only air-tight in the front. air should only escape from the back when you're playing.

Tone-wise, I really have no idea. Some people say they can tell the difference if you use Marine-Grade Plywood or MDF board. the people being unnecessarily anal about guitar body wood are already ****ed up enough. Just imagine how much more ****ed up you have to be to actually analise (misspelling intended) a few pieces of otherwise scrap plywood from the lumber yard. there are a few rules though. DO NOT use solid wood. These are known to have crap acoustic properties in speaker cabinets. Stick to strong and durable grades of plywood and you'll be ok.


Choice of Speaker
I'm not going to go too far into this. There are endless choices of speakers. Just think of it this way: you have your guitar, your amp, your pedals, all your cables and everything else. Eventually, all that signal will be sent into one last component: the speaker.

the speaker is like the representative of an organisation. It is the one that speaks to the public. It is the voice! The speaker is the voice of your rig!

choose wisely. choose carefully. https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=823671
Last edited by sharp__edge at Nov 27, 2009,
#11
If you have a good amp, you better have a good cab.

A bad cab will ruin a good amp. With that said, I'd stay away from the 1960a.

I bought my 1960 for $350 and if I had the choice, I would not pay that again, if that tells you anything. Next time, I'll just suck it up and spend the $700-$800 on a cab that I actually like and that sounds good.
Last edited by al112987 at Nov 27, 2009,
#12
speakers> than actual cab
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#14
Quote by edge11
speakers> than actual cab
they're both important.
Quote by modirnwarfare
The 1960a has g12t speakers, is this vintage 30s? Why don't you guys like the 1960a?
no, they're g12t speakers. not vintage 30s.

I don't like the 1960a because it sucks. It just does not sound good, and outside of a handful of Marshall JCM800s-2000s, I have yet to hear an amp that sounds good through one.
#15
Quote by edge11
speakers> than actual cab



This. I'm putting V30's in my Peavey 412MS. No need to go out and spend $900 on a Mills Afterburner, although they are nice.
Tastes like chicken, if chicken was a candy.
#16
Whats better g12ts, vintage 30s, g12h etc. what are the differences between the Celestion speaker types? What is the difference between the 1960a and the 1960av, tone-wise?
Last edited by modirnwarfare at Nov 27, 2009,
#17
g12h30 - balanced all around, low power handling, will break up quickly and can loose definition with higher wattage amps. My personal favorite.

g12t-75 - harsh with mids cut. the high end is seriously like an ice pick to the ear. huge low end, i guess people who play metal might like it, but regardless, it is still harsh in the highs. the mid scoop is annoying, it lacks fullness in it's tone.

v30s - harsh with mids boosted. honestly have no clue why this speaker is so popular. but again, high power handling, big low end, i guess metal players like it.
#18
Ugh I hated my 1960 with the 75's in it. It sounded like my amp was farting. I have a cab with V30's now and I love it. I no longer feel like I have to EQ around my speakers.
(()____(Main Rig)____())>

Carvin CS4 Goldtop
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Carvin v3m
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#19
Quote by McLeod
Ugh I hated my 1960 with the 75's in it. It sounded like my amp was farting. I have a cab with V30's now and I love it. I no longer feel like I have to EQ around my speakers.
duid you use it with that YBA-1?

I use my 1960 with a JTM45 head and it sounds terrible, and every Marshall plexi that I've put through it has sounded horrible as well, I'd fully expect the YBA-1 to sound horrible with the cab too.
#20
Nope used it with a Single Rec, only used it once with the YBA
(()____(Main Rig)____())>

Carvin CS4 Goldtop
PRS Santana SE
Carvin SC90
Washburn Taurus 5-string Bass
Peavey 6505
Carvin v3m
Carvin 2x12
Spider Valve Cab
Plenty of Pedals.