#1
Hullo. I currently have a Peavey Classic 50 and it's a great amp, but I've been wanting to change speakers in it for a bit now. I've gone through threads on changing speakers and such and it's come to my understanding that when concerning the Classic series, it's a bitch to do it. So I thought that it would be a fun idea to see if I could maybe build a head and cab for this thing to lighten the weight a bit as well.

So I have a few questions. The first one; is it even possible? With the way that the controls are situated and such, the tubes would be lying horizontal in the amp instead of vertical, is that a problem? Question two; what kind of wood? I hear a lot of stuff about wood when talking cabs and such, so if anyone could explain to me the certain nuances of different kinds of wood, I'd really appreciate that. And number three; difficulty? I'll be doing this with my uncle and we both have some experience with wiring, woodcutting and such like that, so is there anything else I should know before I get started?

Thanks for all your help in advance, and I promise mucho pics when this gets started.
#2
Totally possible. I doubt it is easier than changing the speakers, but it would break the weight up into two pieces, and you could make it look all custom and schmexy.

The best wood type depends on what style cab you are making and your own personal preferences:
Open or closed back?
Are you covering it with tolex, or do you want to see wood?
How much are you willing to spend on it?
Do you have the tools and experience to make fancier joints (finger or dovetail)?
#3
I was thinking of making it open back, but I'm also tossing around the idea of doing something like a Dr. Z cab where the middle panel is removable for both open/closed back sounds. Probably tolex it. How hard is tolexing though? I don't really know how one tolexes anything, so yeah. Cost...how frugal can I be? Like an Avatar cab and such is around $300 if I remember correctly, so I'd really not rather approach that price. As for tools and experience, I think so.
#4
Wood first, man made boards are best and cheapest. The choice is chipboard which is cheap and sounds good but damages easily in transit, MDF which is the best sonically but is heavy and absorbs water which makes it swell and distort or plywood which is light and tough but a bit resonant. Most people and most manufacturers opt for plywood. Look for a good grade. It should be voidless which means that any internal knots or splits have been filled. The plies should be stuck together with a waterproof glue and the outer layers should be of a decent hardwood, usually birch and graded A on at least one face. I use marine ply but a good furniture grade is good too.

Don't bother with finger joints for the speaker cab a reinforced butt joint is better and easier. You could finger joint the amp cab if you need the space internally as it will be stronger but I personally have never had a plain butt joint give way even though I habitually stand on all my cabs.
#5
Alright, thanks for the help with the wood there, appreciate it.

Does anyone here have any experience with tolex though? Cutting it, applying, it all that jazz?