#1
Hey I started this project some time ago and put it away until now... I got it out and finished it off but now the action Is way too high...

Just to give you and idea of what im working with the body is shaped kind of like a les paul... it has a humbucker and a tele pick up... the bridge is floating like a les paul one... the neck is an old strat neck...

I lowered the bridge as low as it could go and it was still way too high, Im thinking of making the neck sit up a little higher by sitting a piece of thin wood under it how does that sound?

also I measured from the nut to the 12th fret of the neck and then from the 12 fret it the bridge its the same yet the intonation is way out, any thing im doing wrong
#2
I actually had/have the same problem with my build and the action being to high more towards the body, and that's what I've done, adding a shim in the neck pocket to adjust the height. I don't know about the intonation though..
#4
When you say bridge, do you mean bridge or saddles? The 12th fret should be half way in between the fretboard edge of the nut and the part of the saddle where the string touches.

When you say floating bridge, what bridge are you talking about?
#5
yeah pics would realy, realy help.
Quote by Scowmoo




You deserved this, Matt.
#6
I would put pics up but im sitting on my bed the guitar is in the garage, and its 12 at night. but the bridge is a exactly like a typical gibson les paul or SG bridge. made by goto or some thing.

yeah I measured from the edge or the nut right on the wood to the 12th fret
#8
Pics would be helpful. If it's an old Strat neck I assume you've got a piece-meal bolt on going on here, in which case it sounds like you forgot to angle the neck. This is an easy fix actually; time to bust out your shim making skills.
#9
Quote by lumberjack
Pics would be helpful. If it's an old Strat neck I assume you've got a piece-meal bolt on going on here, in which case it sounds like you forgot to angle the neck. This is an easy fix actually; time to bust out your shim making skills.


yeah I need to put a 16 degree angle on the thingy were the neck sits right? or some thing like that
#10
Quote by guitarcam123
Did you angle the bridge?

The bass side should be about 3/8" lower than the treble side.


1/8th further back on the bass side
Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


Member of the official GB&C "Who to Listen to" list


I support Shay van Fani
I can supply WD Music, ABM and AllParts products to UK builders at DISCOUNTED prices!
#11
Quote by zstuchalot
yeah I need to put a 16 degree angle on the thingy were the neck sits right? or some thing like that


No, a 16 degree angle would be the headstock angle, if anything.

OK, neck angle is not something that someone can tell you exactly, they may be able to suggest one or two degrees, but it is something that you should calculate yourself.

http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/NeckAngle/Index.cfm



You may find it easier to recess the bridge, meaning, rout material out so that the bridge sits lower, partially in the body.

This will lower or eliminate the need for a neck angle.

It sounds like you have a TunoMatic bridge or TOM. Trying searching for "Recessed TOM".

As for positioning your bridge. You need to know the scale length of the neck you have, so you need to measure from the very edge of the nut (nearest the bridge, rather than the tuners) to the CENTRE of the 12th fret (the actual metal fret)

You also need to do this down the MIDDLE of the neck, not the sides.

Say it measures 12.75 inches, that means you have a 25.5 inch scale length on your neck.

Now. Again, measure down the centre of the neck and the guitar and mark a long straight line around the area of the bridge, in the middle of the body.

Now measure down the centre of the neck again from nut to bridge area and make a mark at 25.5 inches.

Now you need to use a square or protractor, to make a horizontal line across the guitar body at 90 degrees to the centreline, at the 25.5 inch mark.

So, you should now have a cross, in the area of the bridge, with the horizontal line at the 25.5 inch scale length. Make sure that line is wider than the bridge, much wider.

Now you need to draw another line, parallel to the horizontal line, 1/8th of an inch further back towards the back of the guitar.

With all that, you need to work out where your post holes will go for the bridge, so that the HIGH E saddle (when wound back) is sitting at the scale length mark and the bass side is 1/8 of an inch further back. The scale length always refers to the HIGH E side, all the other strings are longer.

If you wanted to be more accurate, remember that the HIGH E string actually runs down the neck at an angle, so the actual intonation point will be a touch more forward than the mark you have made but only by about .02 of an inch.

There should be enough room on the saddle adjustment to accommodate this.

Anyway, that should give you an idea. It is hard for me to give you a step by step, without actually having the parts to measure etc.
Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


Member of the official GB&C "Who to Listen to" list


I support Shay van Fani
I can supply WD Music, ABM and AllParts products to UK builders at DISCOUNTED prices!
Last edited by Skeet UK at Dec 16, 2009,
#12
Quote by Skeet UK
No, a 16 degree angle would be the headstock angle, if anything.

OK, neck angle is not something that someone can tell you exactly, they may be able to suggest one or two degrees, but it is something that you should calculate yourself.

http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/NeckAngle/Index.cfm



You may find it easier to recess the bridge, meaning, rout material out so that the bridge sits lower, partially in the body.

This will lower or eliminate the need for a neck angle.

It sounds like you have a TunoMatic bridge or TOM. Trying searching for "Recessed TOM".

As for positioning your bridge. You need to know the scale length of the neck you have, so you need to measure from the very edge of the nut (nearest the bridge, rather than the tuners) to the CENTRE of the 12th fret (the actual metal fret)

You also need to do this down the MIDDLE of the neck, not the sides.

Say it measures 12.75 inches, that means you have a 25.5 inch scale length on your neck.

Now. Again, measure down the centre of the neck and the guitar and mark a long straight line around the area of the bridge, in the middle of the body.

Now measure down the centre of the neck again from nut to bridge area and make a mark at 25.5 inches.

Now you need to use a square or protractor, to make a horizontal line across the guitar body at 90 degrees to the centreline, at the 25.5 inch mark.

So, you should now have a cross, in the area of the bridge, with the horizontal line at the 25.5 inch scale length. Make sure that line is wider than the bridge, much wider.

Now you need to draw another line, parallel to the horizontal line, 1/8th of an inch further back towards the back of the guitar.

With all that, you need to work out where your post holes will go for the bridge, so that the HIGH E saddle (when wound back) is sitting at the scale length mark and the bass side is 1/8 of an inch further back. The scale length always refers to the HIGH E side, all the other strings are longer.

If you wanted to be more accurate, remember that the HIGH E string actually runs down the neck at an angle, so the actual intonation point will be a touch more forward than the mark you have made but only by about .02 of an inch.

There should be enough room on the saddle adjustment to accommodate this.

Anyway, that should give you an idea. It is hard for me to give you a step by step, without actually having the parts to measure etc.



THANK YOU SO MUCH! hopfully some time this week I will be able to get my hands on the router and make a small pocket for the bridge to sit in... or get the right angle on the neck.
#13
What you should do, is measure the bridge, nut, fret height etc and calculate how much it needs to be recessed for good action without a neck angle.
Draw it full size.


So you would draw a line that represents the fret height above a line that represents the fretboard. Draw the nut height, mark the body height, draw in the strings at the action you want (x 12th fret), continue that line to the bridge area.

Then draw in the bridge. You should then be able to see, how much of a recess you need.

This diagram shows you how to find the neck angle, but if you play about with it you can work out your bridge recess.

Care of Mr Perry Ormsby:

Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


Member of the official GB&C "Who to Listen to" list


I support Shay van Fani
I can supply WD Music, ABM and AllParts products to UK builders at DISCOUNTED prices!
Last edited by Skeet UK at Dec 16, 2009,
#15
Quote by lumberjack
Hahaha Skeet just destroyed this thread


Is that good? That's good right?

Do we mean destroyed as in "owned"?

Now I am nervous...a man of your Calibre commenting on my postage...
Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


Member of the official GB&C "Who to Listen to" list


I support Shay van Fani
I can supply WD Music, ABM and AllParts products to UK builders at DISCOUNTED prices!