#1
Hey! So I have a cheap strat that had a couple stains and stuff in the neck, plus I have scalloped some of it, so now the whole neck is sanded down nicely between all the frets. But the problem is I dont know how to seal/finish/whatever it, and now after having played on it a while the maple fretboard is getting these dark stains where i play most.

So Im going to take off the strings and clean it up, but I want to know what I use for finishing it after Ive sanded it down nicely. I have no idea what to do here. Please help!
#3
Ive heard of lemon oil for fretboards, but will this seal up the wood so It doesnt get stained when I play?
#4
No lemon oil wont do anything for a unsealed maple fret board. Doesnt do much for a sealed one either. Your gonna need to put some sort of finish on the maple to protect it. Easiest that requires next to no tools is something like tung oil. There are brush on varnishes you can use. The factory way is a spray on finish.

Originally fenders came w unfinished maple but leo saw how bad they looked after a short time and started finishing them.
#5
Quote by ChrixtianB
dunlop lemon oil


Actually, Lemon Oil is VERY BAD for a Maple fretboard.

Lacquer the maple, buff to a shine or as suggested, oil it.
Quote by Cal UK

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#6
Quote by Skeet UK
Actually, Lemon Oil is VERY BAD for a Maple fretboard.

Lacquer the maple, buff to a shine or as suggested, oil it.


Can you tung oil maple? I had been told at one point that maple cannot be oil-finished, only lacquered. Is this correct? I dearly would like to strip the finish off of the back of the neck on my new Ibanez destroyer, but it's got a 5-piece maple/walnut neck, and I want to protect it with something after sanding the finish down.
I Japanese Fenders
MIJ '86 Strat, MIJ '95 Foto Flame Tele, Jackson JSX-94
Schecter C-1 Classic 3TSB, Takamine EG544SC-4C
Warwick Corvette Fretless MIJ '89 P-Bass Lyte
Fender Geddy Lee Sig Bass, Ibanez DTT700 Destroyer
#7
Quote by Skeet UK
Actually, Lemon Oil is VERY BAD for a Maple fretboard.

No it's not... it just just doesn't really do anything. I've not heard any horror stories regarding maple and lemon oil. Plenty of people (me included) clean their bare maple stingray necks with lemon oil.

As someone else said, you'll have to find a brush on laquer, that would be easiest.
#8
I put tung oil on a a maple neck and fret board with no problems. Actually did a whole neck thru guitar with it, maple neck and fretboard w mahogany wings. Only equipment needed was a bottle of the tung oil finish(I used formbys bought it for gun stocks but works on guitars to), a rag to put it on with and some steel wool between coats. You might have to reapply it every once in a while.
#9
Quote by budget bassist
No it's not... it just just doesn't really do anything. I've not heard any horror stories regarding maple and lemon oil. Plenty of people (me included) clean their bare maple stingray necks with lemon oil.

As someone else said, you'll have to find a brush on laquer, that would be easiest.


Maple necks are usually finished with something (as our TS has stated) and Lemon Oil can and will degrade that finish over a period of time, which will then allow the wood itself to get dirty and stained. That is why you don't use Lemon Oil on Maple.

Of course, if it works for you, great, but there is no point in apply oil to a sealed neck or fingerboard anyway, coz it won't go anywhere

EDIT: http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/products/152-kyser_lemon_oil_4oz
Read the "Good if used properly" review and also see the "Note" under the product image.
Quote by Cal UK

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Last edited by Skeet UK at Dec 16, 2009,
#10
Thanks for the help everyone, I think I will just lacquer the whole thing. But I see I can pick from nitrocellulose, acrylic, water-based lacquers. Which one is best for a maple neck?
#11
Quote by subzero364
Thanks for the help everyone, I think I will just lacquer the whole thing. But I see I can pick from nitrocellulose, acrylic, water-based lacquers. Which one is best for a maple neck?


Use a decent automotive clear.

Mask off all of your frets (just the frets). Coat up the whole neck with several decent coats/. Once dry, wet sand the neck to whatever feels nice (1500 grit) and also do that to the fingerboard and then buff it up so it shines like a shiny thing that has just been shined up with "Ultra Shine Polish".
Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


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#13
Quote by subzero364
So automotive clear is basically lacquer?

Do you mean something like this? Its very expensive... http://www.levineautoparts.com/clearcoat.html



Possibly, but that is two pack and a gallon of it as well!

Two pack (2k) clear is the best. You can get it in spray cans now, one or two cans should be enough.

http://www.levineautoparts.com/aeromax.html
Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


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I can supply WD Music, ABM and AllParts products to UK builders at DISCOUNTED prices!
#15
Sorry to bump this, but i realized that the finish you suggested will end up costing almost as much as my guitar

I went to Home Depot to look at their lacquers, and I found this:



It is, apparently, very hard :S Will this work for a maple neck?
#16
Should be ok, careful when wet sanding it though...water based.
Quote by Cal UK

...that's what Skeet always says anyway and he's a sex god.


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#17
Alright, so far I have 4 coats on the neck. How many do you recommend? Ive read that it should take a can or two to finish a whole neck, and it looks like ive got lots left in my first can, so I figure I need a few more coats, but Im not sure.

Also, is it ok to just sand everything at the end or should I be sanding every few coats?

Thanks again Skeet youve been a tremendous help!