#1
I'm thinking this should be fairly easy but feel to chip in if you have any practical experience of similar solutions or can see any glaring errors in my proposed plan.

I have two valve heads which I wish to use at the same time. (Joe Bonamassa's fault!!). I intend to have both (a ceritone trainwreck express clone and a bogner alchemist) on all the time but to still use the channel switching and the boost features on the bogner to give me a wider tonal palette (along with the bogners reverb and delay too). I'll use both amps with a 1970's Marshal 1960B loaded with original Greens Backs on one side for the Ceriatone and Original Heritages for the Bogner (the cab has also been internal split by adding a solid vertical wood panel).

So my original plan was to simply make a signal splitter box. In effect a jack for input and two for output with the the internals being the tip connector of the input jack being wired to both output jacks tip and the input sleeve connector being wired both external jacks sleeves.

So question one will this work

On the assumption it will and working on the principal of quick win further functionality I may wish to add foot switches to my creation. I'm not these will ever get used as to be honest as I plan to dual mike the cab and split it hard left and right for the FOH mix so I would loose half my sound if I were to switch an amp off. However I'm thinking there would be some benefit in setting up a stage sound in being able to switch off either amp whilst soundchecking. So lets assume that I may add the switches any way. I would plan to add a switch before each of the input jacks with the idea being that set one way the signal would reach the output jack and the otherway there would simply be no signal.

Question two would this also work

Any useful help appreciated. I'm heading to Maplins today for the box, jacks and potentially switches as this is a quick project for the holidays so any quick help would be appreciated.


Dave
#2
before I go into switching, I'm just gonna double check you've got the cab hooked up properly (sounds liek you do..just being sure )

so your cab's essentially 2 independant 212s, not connected electrically at all?
..just want to make sure thats whats happening, because of impedance matching/making sure theres a load behind the amps.
..but yeah, sounds like you've got that worked out already.

for the switching, it sounds like you want an A/B/Y box
a completely passive a/b/y has an input, 2 outputs, and 2 switches.

with one switch, you can direct the signal to output 'a' or 'b'. the 'y' switch sends the signal to both outputs at the same time.

this'll be better than having 2 on/off switches for each output, because with the 2 on/offs, if you were to switch from only the ceriatone to only the bogner, you'd need to press both switches at the same time..


so it soudns like an a/b/y is what you want..
try out a passive a/b/y first, but sometimes you might need to add buffers to isolate the seperate amps inputs..

honestly, any combination of amps I've a/b/y'd have been fine with no buffers, but ..maybe I just got lucky.

I can find a diagram in a second for a passive aby and post it, but if you want a parts list, it's pretty much just 3 jacks, 2 switches, and LEDs (if you want status indication)
#3
Yep my 4x12 is in effect wired as two 2x12's each matched to the relevant heads impedance.

My plan was for the two independant on/off switches approach rather than an A B-Y but only because I'd expected it to be easier to wire

That said if you have a diagram for an A B-Y then I'd appreciate it if you could post it up.


Regards


Dave
Last edited by dave_5150 at Dec 23, 2009,
#5
I think maybe the 2 switches might work better. With like a 3-way click footswitch, it would like (click) Amp A, (click) Amp B, (click) Amps A&B, (click) back to Amp A. If you are on AB and want to goto B, you have to double click and its hard to know what mode the switch is in. Maybe its on B and you're expecting it to be on AB.

With two separate switches, one does each amp. Then its easy to turn each one on or off and both on or off and you know exactly which one is on. You would need 2 different colored LED's, 2 3PDT switches, 2 resistors, 2 mono jacks and 1 stereo jack, and a battery clip or power jack to use a pedal board power source. And a cool box to put it in of course. lol. Still for under $15 you could have everything you need to do this.
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#6
Quote by GeToChKn
I think maybe the 2 switches might work better. With like a 3-way click footswitch, it would like (click) Amp A, (click) Amp B, (click) Amps A&B, (click) back to Amp A. If you are on AB and want to goto B, you have to double click and its hard to know what mode the switch is in. Maybe its on B and you're expecting it to be on AB.

With two separate switches, one does each amp. Then its easy to turn each one on or off and both on or off and you know exactly which one is on. You would need 2 different colored LED's, 2 3PDT switches, 2 resistors, 2 mono jacks and 1 stereo jack, and a battery clip or power jack to use a pedal board power source. And a cool box to put it in of course. lol. Still for under $15 you could have everything you need to do this.

an a/b/y has 2 switches

one chooses between amp a or amp b, and the other switch sends signal to amp a and b, no matter what the other switch is doing

anyway.. heres 2 on/offs, with no status LEDs. you just need spst switches (or dpdt with an LED

#7
Thanks ..that looks easy enough.

Any chance of a diagram with the led's added please?
#10
I've drilled my box and assembled the components so I've jut got the wiring to do in the morning

Just to check:

- Battery clip +'ive to switch and -'ive to third lug of a stereo input jack

- LED's +'ive to switch and -'ive to common earth

- Earth from jack sockets is the outer lug not the "tip" lug


Regards


Dave