#1
what do you think about puting a guitar body in the oven to help soften the poly eurathane coating?
it has a veneer top to it so i imagine that its attached with some sort of glue. would this melt too?
#2
I doubt it would be good for it. Maybe a hairdryer/ paint-stripper? Why not just sand it off cold?
Last edited by Tempoe at Dec 23, 2009,
#3
Quote by sethp
what do you think about puting a guitar body in the oven to help soften the poly eurathane coating?
it has a veneer top to it so i imagine that its attached with some sort of glue. would this melt too?

did you eat paint chips as a child?
#6
EDIT: That was not directed at you David. Sorry.

TS, you could use a heat gun to achieve a much, much better effect. Putting it into an oven may help soften the finish, but it will also burn any exposed wood and more than likely would cause the wood to expand and crack the veneer. I'd suggest either a heatgun, or paint strippers to remove the finish.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#7
sanding is the best method. period.

especially with thick poly finishes, much faster, and frankly i had to learn the hard way that heat gun plus scraper is a huge pain in the ass.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009
Quote by Shinozoku
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#8
Quote by blindsagacity
sanding is the best method. period.

especially with thick poly finishes, much faster, and frankly i had to learn the hard way that heat gun plus scraper is a huge pain in the ass.

Using chemicals wasnt fun either. It was a huge mess and I got some stripper on my hand and it burned... a lot. I wouldnt recommend it unless for some reason you had to

Putting it in the oven is not a safe idea at all

Sand it off
Impossible is Nothing
#9
^Easy way to avoid that sitiation: Wear Gloves.
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009

A man chooses, a slave obeys.
#10
Quote by bv310
^Easy way to avoid that sitiation: Wear Gloves.

Yes, that would've been a good idea, but I didnt have any

I got some later towards the end, but it was still a big mess, with flakes of the finish all over and sticking to stuff... I just liked sanding better

And some chemical strippers arent too effective on poly finishes, so it would be difficult and time consuming to strip it chemically

Quote by The Guitar Rerach

Should you ever have the unfortunate job of stripping a polyurethane finish, I have found only one chemical stripper which will remove poly; AirCraft Remover by Kleen Strip. It can be found at most automotive paint supply stores. Be aware that should you decide to use A/R, it is deadly to plastic bindings. Protect the bindings and if possible strip with A/R only up to near the binding area and use lacquer thinner or sanding to remove the finish adjacent to the bindings. One trick; on stubborn finishes, cover the area being stripped with a plastic garbage bag to prevent the stripper from evaporating. This will give the stripper a longer working time. Test the bag first to be sure that it is not attacked by the stripper although most bags do not seem to be affected.


Up to TS, whatever he chooses
Impossible is Nothing
#11
Quote by sethp
what do you think about puting a guitar body in the oven to help soften the poly eurathane coating?
it has a veneer top to it so i imagine that its attached with some sort of glue. would this melt too?


Ignore everyone else. Putting it in the oven is a good idea. I stripped the poly off of many guitars by just heating it up.
#12
Quote by Cheapshot
Ignore everyone else. Putting it in the oven is a good idea. I stripped the poly off of many guitars by just heating it up.

uhh. no.
several users have said its a bad idea.
the users that said so are reliable, and have been here, and been doing such things for a long time.

i myself have striped several guitars by sanding. takes time but it works. you'd have to sand it anyway (uneven striping, or w/e)

just man up and sand it.
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You deserved this, Matt.
#13
Quote by metal-matt
uhh. no.
several users have said its a bad idea.
the users that said so are reliable, and have been here, and been doing such things for a long time.

i myself have striped several guitars by sanding. takes time but it works. you'd have to sand it anyway (uneven striping, or w/e)

just man up and sand it.


Naw man, it's a good idea, especially for a dude like him.
#15
i tried the chemical stripper and that stuff is EVIL
guess i'm gonna sand
#16
I say if you're going to sand it, invest in an orbital sander. They take finish off REALLY fast.
Bari Build

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#17
Quote by salsawords
I say if you're going to sand it, invest in an orbital sander. They take finish off REALLY fast.


i have an electric drill. would that be ok? and what grit would i start with? 120? or coarser?
#18
I'm not sure what kind of attachment you'd use or whatever, but it would probably be easier than hand sanding. I'd start with 80 or 60 to remove material quickly. Just be sure you don't sand too much and run into the veneer.
Bari Build

_\_\ll/_/_
__\ _ /__
___ \/ ___

Last edited by salsawords at Dec 24, 2009,
#19
Acetone will take that right off, wont burn either, but like everybody else here said, don't put it in the oven, just man up and sand it down. And dont use a drill as a sander, you will have very unwanted effects if you do. Just hand sand it or go and buy an orbital sander. Those are pretty much your only two choices.
#20
nitromors paint stripper
look em up
simple eh
its a bitter sweet symphony this life try to make ends meet your a slave to money then you die
#21
Quote by ethan_hanus
Acetone will take that right off, wont burn either, but like everybody else here said, don't put it in the oven, just man up and sand it down. And dont use a drill as a sander, you will have very unwanted effects if you do. Just hand sand it or go and buy an orbital sander. Those are pretty much your only two choices.



acetone does not work very well at all actually, at least not from my experience
R.I.P. Les Paul, 1915-2009
Quote by Shinozoku
You have a walnut stop sign banjo-tar signed by MAB

˙ןooɔ sı uosɐǝɹ ןɐǝɹ ou ɥʇıʍ ƃıs ɹnoʎ uı ʇxǝʇ uʍop ǝpısdn ƃuıʇʇnd
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Seriously.

Stop Sign Guitar? HELL YES!