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#121
no problem, you have to start somewhere

if I'm adding a switch on a pickguard, I'll usually just make a little mark where I want to drill using an exacto knife, then drill it out with whatever drill bit is the right size (whether it's a wood bit, metal bit or otherwise)
for bigger holes it's a good idea to drill a smaller pilot hole first, but for a mini toggle you're probably fine without one.. the little exacto knife mark does a good enough job at keeping the bit centered anyway
#122
Dumb question again, is it possible to do this without having a drill?
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ZOOM G5
Danelectro Daddy-O overdrive
#124


If someone could point me to an off -> on button that would be cool as the switch I have now it just too stiff to do anything.
#125
Quote by wahalrus
Dumb question again, is it possible to do this without having a drill?

grab a utility knife or something similar, and press the point of the blade against where you want the hole. then keep pressure on the knife and twist it until it starts to dig out a hole..eventually you should be able to get all the way through, and either continue with the knife until the hole is to size, or use something else to pry your way through..it's not ideal at all, but it should work
#126
Quote by FearMyLightning
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If someone could point me to an off -> on button that would be cool as the switch I have now it just too stiff to do anything.

any switch I've ever used with an on/off label like that has been pretty heavy duty, and pretty stiff..

maybe you could find a looser switch thats the same size as what you have now, and just re-use the little on/off tabs?
#127
Quote by james4
grab a utility knife or something similar, and press the point of the blade against where you want the hole. then keep pressure on the knife and twist it until it starts to dig out a hole..eventually you should be able to get all the way through, and either continue with the knife until the hole is to size, or use something else to pry your way through..it's not ideal at all, but it should work

Thanks so much! The only drill I own is an actual screwdriver drill and I did not feel comfortable using that to make a small hole in a pickguard.
Call me walrus! Or latte!

Gear:
Fernandes Retrorocket Deluxe DG
G&L Tribute ASAT Deluxe Carved Top
Fender Lonestar Deluxe Reissue (MIM, Texas Specials and Pearly Gates HB)
ZOOM G5
Danelectro Daddy-O overdrive
#128
Quote by james4
any switch I've ever used with an on/off label like that has been pretty heavy duty, and pretty stiff..

maybe you could find a looser switch thats the same size as what you have now, and just re-use the little on/off tabs?


No I don't care about the tabs. Ok so I bought a button, problem is the button is an always on -> press to off. What I want is an always off -> press to on.
#129
Hi guy's. I've read through the old thread and the new one, and I think I understand. I have a Single Humbucker/Volume/Tone setup, and I am planning on installing, you guessed it, a killswitch. I am going to completely remove the tone pot, move the volume to it's place, mounting the switch where the volume pot was. I want a momentary switch, a la Bucket/Morello, but I want a quality switch. I have a friend who is a luthier who will install it, but I have to buy the parts. Link's/suggestions? Thanks for the amazing thread. As a person who always thought this process was the spawn of satan, it pleases me to see how easy it is.
#130
I'm doing up my old Ibanez (its an SA260). So I want to install a killswitch in the form of a push/pull pot. What would be the best way to install this in? The guitar has 1 master volume and 1 master tone pot and a 5-way switch. I was thinking of using the master volume as the killswitch pot...... (If thats a good idea)
#131
Been getting into installing a killswitch on some of my guitars. With killswitches, for the love of god use something that looks good with the guitar. You can keep your kitchen oven toggle switches or Buckethead big red clown buttons.

This is what I ended up using. Low profile, normally open, push to close contact, sleek and sturdy. MTBF is 100,000+ cycles. It's out of the way but instantly accessible when I need. Wired directly across the output jack hot and ground. Works like a charm and in my opinion looks good.





Also drilled and mounted one to my Flying V pickguard last night and it looks like the boss. Didn't take any pics though.
'It takes 100 guitar players to change a light. One to change the light and 99 to stand around pointing, saying..."Yeah man, look...I can do that too"...'

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Last edited by Phoenix V at Jun 24, 2012,
#132
Quote by Rory Kavanagh
I'm doing up my old Ibanez (its an SA260). So I want to install a killswitch in the form of a push/pull pot. What would be the best way to install this in? The guitar has 1 master volume and 1 master tone pot and a 5-way switch. I was thinking of using the master volume as the killswitch pot...... (If thats a good idea)

it doesn't really matter whether you make the volume or tone the push-pull, it just comes down to your preference really. wiring the switch would be the exact same either way

just keep in mind you cant really get a stutter effect with a push/pull
#133
Quote by Phoenix V
Been getting into installing a killswitch on some of my guitars. With killswitches, for the love of god use something that looks good with the guitar. You can keep your kitchen oven toggle switches or Buckethead big red clown buttons.

This is what I ended up using. Low profile, normally open, push to close contact, sleek and sturdy. MTBF is 100,000+ cycles. It's out of the way but instantly accessible when I need. Wired directly across the output jack hot and ground. Works like a charm and in my opinion looks good.





Also drilled and mounted one to my Flying V pickguard last night and it looks like the boss. Didn't take any pics though.

nice switch choice and placement
it looks like you scratched up your finish a bit while drilling though.. I'll add you pic to the first post along with the others if you like
#135
Quote by james4
nice switch choice and placement
it looks like you scratched up your finish a bit while drilling though.. I'll add you pic to the first post along with the others if you like


The photo has debris around the switch (taken just as I had fitted it off) which I later cleared off but yeah there's a small hairline crack in the laquer just to the left of the switch which is probably what you can see. I was being so careful too. Put tape all around the location of the hole on both sides so the laquer and wood wouldnt splinter or chip. Started with small pilot drill bit low speed and opened the hole up gradually with increasing bit sizes. It worked flawlessy......until the last drill bit where it just fractured slightly. *sigh*

The guitar is around 24 years old, so the finish is now fairly fragile when it comes to working with it.

Feel free to use the pic though
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Last edited by Phoenix V at Jun 24, 2012,
#136
Quote by Jason Jillard
yeah, next time, put down a couple layers of masking tape, and use a brad point drill bit. that should eliminate any skipping or chipping from the drill.



hehe, see above. The funny thing is, I did do that Not sure how more careful I could have been. The laquer cracked underneath the tape. The tape did stop if from propogating though, small consolation I guess lol

Oh well. Im not heartbroken, its is cheap guitar which underwent refurb.
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#138
Heres a few pics I just did for the killswitch I did for the Flying V. To me, it looks like a stock item that came on the guitar.





Aesthetics are important to me. They have to play a part I reckon. Don't just stick any ol' switch on there.
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Last edited by Phoenix V at Jun 25, 2012,
#139
Quote by Jason Jillard
a small pilot hole is a good idea, but i would jsut go strait to size after that.

if you give a large drill bit room to bite into a already large hole, it will jump on that opportunity.


or, you can drill a slightly undersized hole, and use a reamer to enlarge it.


Given the age of the finish, in hindsight I should have used a reamer to open the hole and not used the drill altogether. Will know better next time
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#140
Hello everyone!

The wiring in my Squier J bass is kind of different compared to that of the standard jazz bass. I know that I need some 22 AWG stranded wire, as well as an SPDT switch, but where I should wire the killswitch to is very confusing to me. Somebody on talkbass told me to wire my killswitch to the red wire connecting the master tone and output jack, is he correct?

(Top circle is neck pot, middle is bridge pot, bottom is master tone)



If somebody could guide me through this that would be awesome!
#141
Quote by SamPingas
Hello everyone!

The wiring in my Squier J bass is kind of different compared to that of the standard jazz bass. I know that I need some 22 AWG stranded wire, as well as an SPDT switch, but where I should wire the killswitch to is very confusing to me. Somebody on talkbass told me to wire my killswitch to the red wire connecting the master tone and output jack, is he correct?

(Top circle is neck pot, middle is bridge pot, bottom is master tone)

[clipped]

If somebody could guide me through this that would be awesome!

I'm not sure if this is the only thing that would work, but I think you could take a SPST switch (or two lugs of a SPDT incl. the common lug) and solder one lug to the hot and one to the ground of the jack or the wires coming from the jack. I've only seen this done with momentary switches, I think, but it might work for a toggle too (might want to try to find this out though). Also, I'm not sure if you can put in the anti-pop resistor with this, but I think you could....
#142
So, I'm wanting to wire an On-off-on switch as a killswitch to get super fast stutter, anyways...

So I'm guessing the way to do this is to simply wire it up like this:
Hot->1
To output(tip)->2
Hot->3

And then have a grounded washer on the switch.

I'm guessing it will only be grounded in the off position when I touch the switch, am I right?
I'm up for building you a pedal.
(Or modding nearly anything moddable)
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#144
Quote by Phoenix V
Been getting into installing a killswitch on some of my guitars. With killswitches, for the love of god use something that looks good with the guitar. You can keep your kitchen oven toggle switches or Buckethead big red clown buttons.

This is what I ended up using. Low profile, normally open, push to close contact, sleek and sturdy. MTBF is 100,000+ cycles. It's out of the way but instantly accessible when I need. Wired directly across the output jack hot and ground. Works like a charm and in my opinion looks good.



Looks GREAT!

Would you mind sharing where you sourced that switch from? I'm having a tough time finding low profile arcade-style buttons like that!

Thank you for sharing.
#145
Bump to the bump

Who's got a source or a part number for the black pushbutton switch shown in the photo right above?
#146
Quote by drmarble
Bump to the bump

Who's got a source or a part number for the black pushbutton switch shown in the photo right above?


Sent you a PM.

cheers
'It takes 100 guitar players to change a light. One to change the light and 99 to stand around pointing, saying..."Yeah man, look...I can do that too"...'

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#149
Dual-function "stutter" kill-switch for electric guitar
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbEyxDbHYzc&feature=g-hist

I would like to install one like this in a Strat. Does anyone here know how to wire it with a push pull Pot?
Would this be the way to do it? ;

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MQW9NFmLndM/UKKJhRX_acI/AAAAAAAAGW0/heV6PZv4jao/s640/akill.jpg
Last edited by fakuverymuch at Nov 14, 2012,
#150
i use that same switch in the pic above, i just go to store The Source to get it...

anyways... i added a killswitch to my guitar, the same low profile one shown earlier. but i seem to get some popping sound i even wired in a resistor as i heard that would fix it, but no luck.. on the lead chanel its fine you barley notice but on the clean its kinda annoying.


its wired between the 2 contacts on the output jack and the resistor is wired between the prongs on the switch.

is there anyways to completly remove the popping sound or is that just how it is suppose to be?
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Last edited by Rocketface2112 at Dec 17, 2012,
#151
Hey, I've managed to wire a button killswitch successfully. I've got a Dimarzio 3 way toggle I'm struggling with, its lay out is a bit different. I've got 3 pins on one side and 2 on the other, I know the centre pin is the ground but I want it to kill the sound on the top and middle position and only be on when its facing the ground. (so, on/off/off)

How do I wire this one up?

http://i61.tinypic.com/1zprtc4.jpg
#152
You mean this switch (the top one)?
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/i-1240/1240_allswitches.jpg

The wiring is simple. Here's a pic.
http://i57.tinypic.com/11js09l.jpg
#153
Amazing thread, thank you very much!

Anyway, I have a technical question: why does the resistor between the switch lughs eliminates the "pop" sound?
Name's Luca.

Quote by OliOsbourne
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Clue: amplifiers amplify so don't turn it on if you need quiet.
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#154
Quote by drmarble
Looks GREAT!

Would you mind sharing where you sourced that switch from? I'm having a tough time finding low profile arcade-style buttons like that!

Thank you for sharing.


The real trick with killswitches is finding one that doesn't "pop" when you use it.
There ARE a few that don't pop from the get-go. I'm not sure that a resistor really solves the problem without introducing another.
Last edited by dspellman at Apr 19, 2014,
#155
I think it has to do with the capacitance across the open switch contacts, switch bounce (closing almost any type of swimming cheaper will cause the contacts to bounce for a couple of nanoseconds), and the fact that you are making the signal go from some positive or negative voltage to zero almost instantly, and the fact that the killswitch also discharges the input cap of the pedal or amp it is plugged into.

I can't find a straight, detailed answer anywhere. I really wish i could tell you for sure...
#156
Alright, I tried it.
I tried everything that came to my mind actually.

I put a resistor in parallel with the switch and the popping sound (more of a scik sciak actually) and nothing changed, I put a cap (0.1uF) in parallel and the popping sound was still there, I put a cap (1uF electrolytic) in parallel and in series and the popping wasn't gone, and lastly I put the same electrolytic cap in series together with the resistor in parallel, and nothing ****in changed.

Have anyone of you guys actually tried the thing and can confirm some of these things work?
Because at this point, the only solution seems to me to find a good quality switch.
Name's Luca.

Quote by OliOsbourne
I don't know anything about this topic, but I just clicked on this thread because of your username :O
Quote by Cajundaddy
Clue: amplifiers amplify so don't turn it on if you need quiet.
Quote by chrismendiola
I guess spambots are now capable of reading minds.
#157
I don't really have much to add to this topic other than that I added one to my jaguar a few months ago. Put it where the tone knob was because I had disconnected it a long time ago, but had to widen the hole by hand. Used a normally off momentary switch from Ace hardware that cost like $5.
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#158
i have a strat with one HB (bridge) and one volume knob. i would like to use a Les Paul style 3 way toggle for my kill switch. Rhythm (up) would be kill, center would be kill, Treble (down) would be on (off/off/on?). will it work? if so, how would i wire it? any info or pix or diagram would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

rock on...
#159
Just wire the jack's hot wire to the poles (two middle lugs) of the switch and ground one of the throws (outer lugs). Understand? I'm on my phone so I can't make a diagram. I won't be online again until tomorrow so I can post a pic then, if you need it.
#160
Sorry for something of a necro here....

But I recently put a spdt switch into my old strat. Unfortunately after I added the switch, and I followed the instructions perfectly and triple checked everything, and it did something to my guitar. Now it seems the volume pot does not work and little sound comes out. I really have to crank the volume on the amp just to here it. Turning the volume on the guitar makes no difference at all. The kill switch works just fine however. Any ideas?


On a second thought I thought maybe I just killed the volume pot?