#1
Hey guys, basically I've become tired of forking out £40 for a set-up on my guitar where I see people managing just fine with stuff like action and intonation themselves. In my guitarist magazines I have a few pages dedicated to guitar set up with tremolos, however these are Fender-style Strat trems.

I have a strat shaped Ibanez with a non-locking trem. Here's a picture of an almost identical version of it (I can't seem to upload pictures directly from my comp):

http://es.wikizic.org/1-034-034950-Ibanez-2004-Special-Edition-SAS-32.jpg

Instead of six screws with going through a bridgeplate you have these two allen-keyable screws on either side of the trem. Atm I haven't strung my guitar because I don't want to risk buggering anything up until I know that I have my trem done as well as possible before hand - or is this even possible, do you have to put the strings on and then just experiment? The problem I have atm is that when I bend the trem, it grinds and jumps across the screws rather than go up and down smoothly.

I'm sorry if I'm not making much sense, my knowledge on guitar set-ups is very limited!
- Ibanez SA220
- LTD EC-1000
- Marshall MG100DFX
- Blackstar HT-Dual Distortion Pedal
- Marshall Jackhammer Distortion/Overdrive Pedal
- EHX Cathedral Reverb Pedal
- Boss PW-10 Wah
- Boss NS-2 Noise Suppressor
- Boss TU-3 Tuner
#2
So, im guessing your pushing down on the trem without any strings, correct?
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#3
Sounds completely retarded, but indeed I was just to see what it was like without and it was grinding on the side screws like a motherfuker.
- Ibanez SA220
- LTD EC-1000
- Marshall MG100DFX
- Blackstar HT-Dual Distortion Pedal
- Marshall Jackhammer Distortion/Overdrive Pedal
- EHX Cathedral Reverb Pedal
- Boss PW-10 Wah
- Boss NS-2 Noise Suppressor
- Boss TU-3 Tuner
#4
Ok, well the thing is that with floating trems like that, the strings put tension on the bridge to make it float, without that tension, its going to move. Once you put strings on, you can adjust the screws in the back to even out the bridge till it's level with your guitar body. It does take some trial and error, but you will get it eventually.
Quote by MakinLattes
I'd kill you and wear your skin.
Quote by Siv During Livh
To attempt to have intercourse with a hornet's nest is a very bad idea,

Voted UG's worst cross dresser.
Also voted #95 on UG's Top 100 2013. Like it means anything....
#5
your trem is a vintage style 2point pivot trem. the MIM strat are 6 screws.
the bridge shouldn't slide to the sides under any condition. one of the pivot points is recessed to prevent that i'm sure...
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#6
Yeah, I guessed as much myself (plus i was reading it everywhere :P) but I was cringing at what the trem was doing by itself, I mean you can adjust the hight of it by itself with the springs and the side screws with give it tension anyway... I'm not just grinding a slack trem against the screws, that would be retarded.
- Ibanez SA220
- LTD EC-1000
- Marshall MG100DFX
- Blackstar HT-Dual Distortion Pedal
- Marshall Jackhammer Distortion/Overdrive Pedal
- EHX Cathedral Reverb Pedal
- Boss PW-10 Wah
- Boss NS-2 Noise Suppressor
- Boss TU-3 Tuner
#7
No, I have the same bridge he does and thats how it works really. He probably had the bridge siting on the threads on the 2 allen screws, and when he pushes down on the trem, down goes the bridge, creating that grinding that he described.
Quote by MakinLattes
I'd kill you and wear your skin.
Quote by Siv During Livh
To attempt to have intercourse with a hornet's nest is a very bad idea,

Voted UG's worst cross dresser.
Also voted #95 on UG's Top 100 2013. Like it means anything....
#8
Quote by SomebodySomeone
your trem is a vintage style 2point pivot trem. the MIM strat are 6 screws.
the bridge shouldn't slide to the sides under any condition. one of the pivot points is recessed to prevent that i'm sure...


Indeed it is, and this means that when I do push down the trem seems to tip to one side, the non-recessed side however this may be because this is simply where the hole for the trem arm is...
- Ibanez SA220
- LTD EC-1000
- Marshall MG100DFX
- Blackstar HT-Dual Distortion Pedal
- Marshall Jackhammer Distortion/Overdrive Pedal
- EHX Cathedral Reverb Pedal
- Boss PW-10 Wah
- Boss NS-2 Noise Suppressor
- Boss TU-3 Tuner
#9
Ultimately you guys suggest that I put the strings on first and see how it goes from there?
- Ibanez SA220
- LTD EC-1000
- Marshall MG100DFX
- Blackstar HT-Dual Distortion Pedal
- Marshall Jackhammer Distortion/Overdrive Pedal
- EHX Cathedral Reverb Pedal
- Boss PW-10 Wah
- Boss NS-2 Noise Suppressor
- Boss TU-3 Tuner
#10
Quote by Saywah?
Ultimately you guys suggest that I put the strings on first and see how it goes from there?

YES!!!! Put the strings on, and tune them up to whatever tuning you usually use. If the bridge is above the body, tighten the screws in the back a bit, the retune to your normal tuning, and if its below the body, slacken the screws and retune. It takes a while to find your sweet spots, but you will find it eventually.
Quote by MakinLattes
I'd kill you and wear your skin.
Quote by Siv During Livh
To attempt to have intercourse with a hornet's nest is a very bad idea,

Voted UG's worst cross dresser.
Also voted #95 on UG's Top 100 2013. Like it means anything....
#11
if you put the same gauge strings you should not have to do any setup whatsoever aside from tuning up. if you are changing string gauges then that's when you have to look into intonation, bridge angle, etc...

EDIT: when you take off the strings, also take off the springs and apply some chapstick to the pivot points. that will help greatly with the grinding and make it smoother....
Quote by metaldud536
...I mean if indians stood naked in front of me, i couldn't tell if they're hispanic or native american. unless they put on clothes

At first he was like...
Quote by Twistedrock
I love you, man. No homo

But then, he was like...
Quote by Twistedrock
I love you even more now. Slightly homo
Last edited by SomebodySomeone at May 21, 2010,