#1
Hi guys, I'm thinking of making my own guitar. I would eventually like to do neoclassical/power metal, blues (like Robin Trower) and electric blues (like SRV), the idea is that I want to be a lead guitarist.
1) Are there sites that give you directions for doing this?
2) What kinds of woods are good for which genres?
3) Will the weight of the wood effect the sound?
4) What kinds of strings are for good for which genres?
5) How will finishes change the sound?
6) What's the best mix of pickups?
7) How do you install a floyd-rose/ whammy bar?
8) How do I get a space for more strings?
9) How do I get more frets?
If there's anything else missing, can you help me with that also?
#2
1.Warmoth and carvin sell kits and carvin will custom build your guitar
2. I think for neoclassical powermetal alder is the best tone wood (IMO and im a mahogany fan), but id say ash gives a great tone for blues, but they ar simmilar woods
3. More weight usually means more sustain, now that being regardless of the quality of the wood (I.e like 5 pounts of Grade A alder will be less than 10 pounds of grade a alder, but AAA alder might have better sustain than Grade A if they are both 5 pounds)
4.Ernie Balls and Dr handmades are the best for wat ur looking, nuff said.
5. Idk that at al
6. Since tonally blues and power metal will be VERY different, i would say get some nice seymour duncan or dimarzio passives (if u can afford bareknuckle) that sound great distorted and clean, and try to get one that you can get a coil tap on it to get a single coil sound (for blues)
7. Look up the kahler 2200, its simmilar to what kerry king of slayer uses, and is easier to install than a floyd rose, being that you only need stud mounts from a TOM bridge
8. Like a 7 string? get a 7 string neck and bridge, but you cant make neck wider w/out making bridge wider, strings get awkward
9. More frets, is best off with a larger scale neck like 25.5 scale
Eh.
#3
Himelnator has given some good answers. i'll throw my answers in for your questions too

1) there are a TON of sites out there that will explain pretty much anything you could need to do. when i was working on my first warmoth i researched EVERYTHING you could think of before i started assembling. everything from proper wiring to how to install string ferrules
2) i think alder is used pretty much everywhere. mahogany too. basswood is pretty popular with metal players (it has a bad rep, but quality basswood is a beautiful thing). ash is also extremely popular. i'm a believer in the theory that says pickups will play a bigger part than the wood. i'd recommend ash for a good all-around wood. alder would be my next pick.
3) generally heavier will mean brighter, heavier will be bassier. thats not always 100% true. i'd try to build a lighter guitar. raising and lowering the pickups to balance out volume will probably solve any big problems you have with tone (if the guitar is too muddy raise the pickups, too bright lower them).
4) heavier strings for lower tunings. this is all preference. you'll know the answer to this better than anybody else, but i'd try 10 gauge if you're not sure, then decide to go heavier or lighter from there
5) some people swear that nitro finishes sound better and "let the true wood resonate" and blah blah blah. i have 2 poly finished guitars. both sound great unplugged and plugged in. nitro feels really cool, but it won't protect your finish as well as poly and will wear more quickly. it's your decision.
6) for what you want i would look into a HSS set up. great strat tones in the 3, 4, and 5 spots, and a nice crunch in the 1 and 2 spots (if you're using a 5 way switch).
7) if you're building from a website (like USACG or warmoth) get them to route the guitar for this type of bridge.
8) not exactly sure what you mean. it's probably a good idea to stick to 6 strings. if you want a 7 string strat there are definitely people out there who will do them. but generally you'll have a much easier time making a plain old 6 string custom. you'll have a lot more options.
9) again, not completely sure what you mean. 22 is pretty standard for frets. some guitars have 24 (to get a full 2 octaves on each string). i used to think i HAD to have 24 frets, but realized i don't need them nearly as badly as i thought. both my guitars now have 22 frets and i'm just fine with that.

hope some of that helps! it's a good idea to really get to know what you want in a guitar before you build anything, but it's never too early to start researching it and figuring out what you want on it.
Warmoth Telecaster Deluxe. Warmoth Strat. Seagull Artist Portrait Acoustic.

"Well good God damn and other such phrases, I haven't heard a beat like this in ages!"
-Dan Le Sac Vs The Scroobius Pip
#4
About the tonewood, that's just mainly preference IMO. The genre is defined by WHAT you play and how you play it, the tone just 'colors' it if you get what I mean. Just try out different woods and pick what YOU think sounds best
My gear:

Ibanez S5470-TKS with a BKP Nailbomb Bridge, Cold Sweat Neck, Trillogy Suite Middle single coil
Ibanez RGR321EX
Roland Cube 60
M-Audio Fast Track Pro
Guitar Rig 5
#5
Warmoth has the biggest selection of bodies and necks for do-it-yourself guitars, but if the neck you buy isn't pre-drilled for the mounting bolts then you need to have a professional tech do it with a proper template. If you mount the neck wrong, the guitar is never going to play properly.

If you build a traditional Start-style guitar, you can get a pre-wired and pre-assembled pickguard assembly that practically drops into the guitar. All you have to solder is the output jack. Some of them are very good.

A lot of people who set out to build a guitar choose some brutally heavy woods. They may look good and even sound good, but standing up for a 3+ hour gig with a 15-pound boat anchor wrapped over your shoulder can be punishing. Jerry Garcia made a career out of it, but be sure you're ready to do it yourself.

Heavy and dense body woods plus heavy and dense neck and fretboard woods will make the guitar too trebly. You need to go for a balance. And think about the finish - not just on the body but on the neck.

Unless you're good with a pro spray gun (and have access to one and a spray booth or someplace that will work for one), you might be better off buying a pre-finished body. Warmoth always has a bunch of them available, and the ones I've seen look great.

The heavier the string; the better the tone. Of course, if you try to play with SRV telephone cables for strings, you may have a hell of a time bending them.

Good luck with your build. It can be very rewarding and you can end up with your perfect instrument.
"Maybe this world is another planet's hell?" - Aldous Huxley