#1
I bought this amp used about a year a go, Its been great until a few days ago. The amp started to cut out and pop every now and then and now the satndby switch doesnt work at all.

Does any one have any experience with this amp or this type of problem? The tubes are the originals and I will be changing them (any suggestions?) but I'm not sure that will fix the standby or any of the other issues.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
#2
Sounds like you did a valve which took out the fuse. Replace output valves and the fuse.
As for type of valve..... what sort of sound are you after? What's in it now and what would you like the new valves to have more or less of than those?
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#3
I have 4 tubes in there now that i can see. They are Sovtek 5881wxt 0109. Im pretty new to this stuff. I checked the fuse and it is ok.

When i turn the amp on with no guitar plugged in you hear a slight hiss with the odd little pop. When i look at the tubes in the back they all look the sme with one glowing a little bluer than others.

After about 5 mins the popping and hissing starts becoming almost scary loud and one of the tubes is glowing orange.

Is this definitely a blown Tube?

Being a newer player I might be looking for something that would be good in all areas. I prefer to play metal/rock/blues.

Thanks
Last edited by hazeman at May 25, 2010,
#5
Quote by stratman_13
Red plating, sounds like.



One of the tubes is shot causing the other to glow? Or much bigger problem?

The Amp has auto biasing can I throw any tubes in it?
#6
Sounds like dead valves to me. Just replace the 5881 valves - all of them. That's the same as a 6L6. You'll need to buy a matched set. Sovteks are ok but you can do better. A set of JJs is a safe bet. You will probably have to rebias them too, you may want to get an amp tech to do it if you are new to all this. Even if you buy the same Sovteks you will have to check the biasing.

Edit: Auto-biasing you say? Then in theory you should be able to just throw the new valves in there and go. I wonder what they are calling autobiasing. I'd like to see the amp schematic.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
Last edited by Cathbard at May 25, 2010,
#7
Thank you for your help I will take it in and have the local shop deal with it.
#8
If it really has auto-biasing you can do it all without getting off your chair. Order a set from dougstubes.com and just replace them. It's no harder than changing a lightglobe, easier, they pull straight out and can only go in one way.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#9
After a quick read on the "Auto-Biasing" they only mention that they use auto biasing to pro long the lives of the tubes there doesnt seem to be anything about installing new ones?

Does any one with some traynor knowledge have anything to add?

Im going to email the company and see what they say.

In your sig you have a modded jcm 900, my buddy has one the 50 watt dual reverb and he hates the tone and so he uses a digitec floor board with it. What do the mods do? Help with the tone to get more of that marshall sound? If so maybe you could point me in the direction of these mods so i can pass htem on to him.

Thanks again
Last edited by hazeman at May 25, 2010,
#10
I've only started to mod it. All I've done so far is cut the bridge/diode clipping circuit out and replaced it with a 100K resistor. Next for the ax is the LED clipping circuit. Still deciding whether to simply pull them out or replace them with white LEDs. White LEDS should have a fwd bias voltage high enough to never clip. I'll probably just rip 'em out.
Long term I want to bypass all the op-amps at the start and add another valve to SL-X the lead channel. The first thing your signal reaches in a valve amp should be a valve, not a bloody op-amp. Dumb, just dumb.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#11
Bought a set of mesa tubes from local shop today installed and the amp works great except for the standby switch?

Thanks for all the help.
#12
Hey hazeman, did you ever solve the problem with you Traynor SCV80? I have the same problem now with the popping and the standby switch not working. I see that you changed the tubes and the popping stopped. Is that still the case? Did you ever figure out the standby switch?
#13
*reported*

Let this thread die.



Quote by ZJY
Hey hazeman, did you ever solve the problem with you Traynor SCV80? I have the same problem now with the popping and the standby switch not working. I see that you changed the tubes and the popping stopped. Is that still the case? Did you ever figure out the standby switch?

Not trying to be a dick here but don't bump old threads like this bro.

Reason why is because people will start posting and this thing is from 2010.

Besides, Hazeman has not posted since February 23rd, 2011 so I doubt he is going to see this.

Otherwise, I would suggest sending the person a PM.

Please start your own thread with your specific information and we will be happy to help you. I personally like the YCV50 so yeah.

Thanks,