#1
I posted in the tone wood thread a few days ago about building a guitar out of olive wood and decided that it would be a nice thing to try.

Basically it would be a neck through (last time I tried to make a body I screwed over the neck pocket and ruined it, neck through gives better sustain too). The wings would be made out of olive with a small strip of ebony either side of the neck. I'd make the front side of the neck a bit lower so I could cover it with some veneer and make it look nice (I'll explain later why).

For the neck, I was gonna do a sorta ibanex wizard affair except the laminations would be about 7mm thick instead of hair thin lines, this is why I want to put some veneer on the front as it would look a little too stripy otherwise. For the veneer, I was thinking about using some nice burr or something to contrast the olive, the laminations in the neck would probably be made of walnut or some dark wood, I can't decide if I should use ebony for that too though.

For the hardware, I'd have a simple tuneomatic bridge and two humbuckers. I was planning on putting an air norton in the neck and a PAF pro in the bridge (I like both pickups). For electronics I was just going to have a simple three way switch, for the knobs, one would be treble cut, the other would be bass cut (I think this could be kinda fun, who actually uses both tone knobs anyway?) and two volumes like normal. I was also gonna use push/pulls on the pots, with some sort of coil splitting arrangement and hopefully series/parallel too, I'm not sure if I can really be bothered with out of phase and stuff although a switch to change from global series to global parallel would be kinda nice... I might just use flick switches for those.

I made a quick picture of what I was planning a few days ago, I apologise in advance for the shite-ness of it but I couldn't find any decent high res pictures so I had to upscale. Also, no I'm not planning on using a fender neck, I just couldn't be bothered to find something else for it as it came with the picture I got the outline from, I'd probably make some sort of different headstock arrangement, possibly closer to the schecter design. Bear in mind that this picture is just to get my ideas across.

For the body shape, I'm not planning on actally using a standard strat shape, I always thought it looked a bit on the large side round the middle. I much prefer the ibanez S series shape, it just looks a lot rounder and also much sexier imo. I'm not going to bother with contouring the top though, too much work and it would ruin the veneer too. Since it's a fixed bridge I'd make the body a little thinner overall too as I don't need room for the springs.

Two quick qustions:

1. Is there a way to make it so that if you have a coil split engaged, when you pull the series/parallel switch it doesn't short out?
2. How are you meant to ground tunematics?

Last edited by pot head pyro at May 28, 2010,
#2
To ground the TOM you need to drill a hole from where the studs fit into the body, into either the pup or electronics cavity and run a ground wire that you attach to the TOM where you push the stud in.

On non neck through guitars the best way would be as follows,




Which does apply to this build as well, but I suggest you take your neck blank, turn it on its side anticlockwise (so that the fret board faces to the left as you look down on it), and route a slot that goes all the way from the TOM to the neck pup cavity, that will make wiring everything much easier (and route a slot onto the bottom wing as well so all the channels connect).


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Last edited by Absent Mind at May 29, 2010,
#3
Quote by pot head pyro
neck through gives better sustain too).


ive heard a few times that this is not true, in fact, the exact opposite?
#4
Quote by Absent Mind
Which does apply to this build as well, but I suggest you take your neck blank, turn it on its side anticlockwise (so that the fret board faces to the left as you look down on it), and route a slot that goes all the way from the TOM to the neck pup cavity, that will make wiring everything much easier (and route a slot onto the bottom wing as well so all the channels connect).
I'm not too keen on the idea of having a huge hole through the middle of the guitar but I might just make the routing for the electronics go all the way to the right hand post of the bridge, ir I could just drill a hole like you said.

Quote by bbetances
ive heard a few times that this is not true, in fact, the exact opposite?
Eh, imma go with the general croud, having not played a true neck through yet. Les pauls have better sustain than strats so that's good enough for me. Also neck through is stringer and also more sexy imo.

Also, I hear that to use a tuneomatic, you have to angle the neck slightly to take into account the higher bridge, how would I do this?
#5
You can just recess the TOM, or angle your neck blank, and blend in into the sides (if you were doing a carve, etc)
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#6
Quote by metalwarrior40
You can just recess the TOM, or angle your neck blank, and blend in into the sides (if you were doing a carve, etc)
If I rescess the bridge, would that not make it nigh impossible to change the height as the screw stud things are underneath? Also, I'm hesitant to recess the bridge anyway as it would mean I'd have less range in the adjustment of the pickup height, I quite like to have the neck pickup set very low so I'm not sure how that would fare with the strings being closer to the body.

As for angling the neck, I'm guessing you just cut the neck to whatever basic angle you need and then glue the fretboard on, amirite? I was planning on making the back of the neck nice and contoured anyway, like the neck through RG's, if you've ever seen one, I'm not much in to the les paul style carving on the back.

Actually, what is everyones opinion on the whole tuneomatic-on-strat-based-body idea anyway? I could always use a simple fixed strat bridge.
#7
You angle your neck blank, in regards to the wings. You dont angle the blank yourself, though you could do that, if you had a thick enough blank.

You shouldn't need to recess it to the point of being unable to access the studs. You will still have easy access to turn them if need be.

Also, you can just route your pup routes deeper if need be.
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#8
Quote by metalwarrior40
Also, you can just route your pup routes deeper if need be.
I'm not really one for having pickups actually behind the mouting rings, I think it looks kinda silly.

So if I were to glue the neck in, I'd just saw off a slither to put it at an angle, right?

I've never seen a recessed TOM, do they look any good?
#11
I prefer thru body stringing.
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#12
While in general, based on intuition, a neck-through is thought to have the best sustain, yet supposedly, if done correctly a bolt on can be just as good, for vibrations travel better through metal than they do wood.

And for your series/parallel switch, as the OP was very long, as are all your posts, I didn't read it, so do you mean a series/parallel for the humbuckers or coils of a humbucker? Either way, I can help you out.

EDIT: My TOM on my les paul copy has a small hole from the bushing hole for the TOM drilled from the bridge pickup cavity, then the bridge ground goes with the pickup wires into the control cavity.


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Last edited by MonkeyLink07 at May 30, 2010,
#13
Quote by MonkeyLink07
And for your series/parallel switch, as the OP was very long, as are all your posts, I didn't read it, so do you mean a series/parallel for the humbuckers or coils of a humbucker? Either way, I can help you out.
I was meaning both, a single switch to make each humbucker run in series (or maybe I could use a QPDT switch to do both at once) and then a seperate switch to make the pickups run in series globally, like red special. I'm not the sort of person who's happy with a chorus pedal and amp gain, the more things I can fiddle with, the merrier, frankly I find the standard wiring for guitars rather boring. What's the fun in only having one volume and two tone knobs when you could do oh so much more?

Secondly, I'm guessing everyone likes the idea of a TOM on a strat based bosy then?

I might update the picture some time soon to something more accurate as to what I want to do, with the propper body shape and hopefully better sample pictures for the wood.
Last edited by pot head pyro at May 31, 2010,
#14
Quote by pot head pyro
I'm not too keen on the idea of having a huge hole through the middle of the guitar but I might just make the routing for the electronics go all the way to the right hand post of the bridge, ir I could just drill a hole like you said.
It would only be a very shallow channel that connects the two pup cavities and the TOM stud on the far right hand side, the channel would only have to be a 1 cm square channel.


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#15
yeah, the channel, either way you drill it, is very small.

So I'm assuming, just like a fender it will be 25.5" scale length with 21 frets?

And yes, you could use a 4PDT and do that, but there is more to tinker with if you are able to do it separately. I have a diagram for a HHH guitar that can do every single pickup combination, minus P-90's, unless you used P-rails...

If you have the 4 knobs, I'm assuming 2Vol 2Tone, with push pulls, I would say 2 Series/Parallel, one for each pickup, then a series parallel for the pickups together, then a phase. If you don't have a switch like the pic of the guitar in the OP, then you can do that with Push pulls, although the guitar will go dead if either volumes are on 0.


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#16
I'm probably going to use the standard fender scale length but I'm going to use 22 frets instead of 21. My first guitar was 22 frets and my new one is 24, so 21 frets confuses the hell out of me. The whole using something "because it's how they did it in vintage strats" thing doesn't bide well with me, this isn't meant to be vintage, and the rest of the guitar isn't very vintage correct wither (wiring and such), so I'd be much better off with 22 frets.

For the wiring, I was planning on having some toggle switches so I can do coil tapping too, I was also thinking about having a bass cut knob (or two) as well... Or possibly I could use a QPDT switcht to make the standard tone knobs turn into bass cut knobs for each pickup, that way I could go straight from really bassy to really trebly at the flick of a switch, although this would leave me without the option of making it make an uber mid sound. This leads me on to another question, if I were to use a cap and then a sort of reversed tone control so that the higher frequencies were filtered out, and then I put it all back together, I'd get some sort of mid cut, right?
#17
look in the OP of the Wiring thread, there is a site that has a mid cut/boost mod using an inductor and a couple caps and resistors.


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#18
Now I think about it more, I'm not sure I'm really that bothered to have a mid cut option, if at all I might just make alittle toggle switch to do it to the both of the pickups at once... or maybe just the bridge pickup, idk. Most of the use of mid cuts is if you're using distortion, in which case you can normally cut the mids on the amp or the pedal.