#1
Well I'm gonna try to keep the story short by saying that I used 11 gauge strings on my guitar, a les paul special 2 (shocker that I'm getting fret buzz), and switched to 10 gauge on the thick strings and 9 gauge on the thinner ones. After the switch I got fret buzz and lots of it. It's pretty much all on the three thicker strings. The three thinner strings sound great however.

I raised the action pretty high and it still continues. My guitar's also intonated correctly if that matters. Also the neck seems alright.

The thing that confuses me is that is that I switched to a lower gauge rather than a thicker one.

So if anyone has any ideas please help. Thanks
#2
Maybe the thicker guage strings caused wear on the nut, leaving a little space to move? Does the buzzing pick up on an amp?
#3
Thinner strings are under less tension at concert pitch, that's why they're easier to bend etc.. Heavier strings require more tension to bring them up to pitch putting just that little bit more curve in the neck. That's why they suggest heavier strings if you tune down. I took a maintenance course taught by the Steve's Music guitar tech, and he says you will enjoy the way your guitar plays more if it is set up with a little bit of buzz as you won't hear it plugged in and turned up anyway.
#4
Nope the buzzing doesn't pick up on the amp.

Quote by Univibe
he says you will enjoy the way your guitar plays more if it is set up with a little bit of buzz as you won't hear it plugged in and turned up anyway.


I never saw it from this perspective. It just annoys me though when i have to play quietly at night as not to wake up my neighbors and I hear the buzz. So I'm still open to suggestions to fix it
#5
If they are brand new strings, they'll buzz for a day or two.

Other than that, action/truss rod adjustment.
Guitars:
LTD Alexi-600 White & Black
LTD Alexi-200 Black(Death Adder pickup & Gold OFR)
Agile Interceptor Pro 727 7-string
Jackson JS30RR rhoads
Jackson DKMGT
Squire telecaster

amps:
Bugera 6262 212 loaded with WGS veteran 30's
#6
fret the first fret on the low E, at the same time,
fret the last fret, on the Low E, where the neck and body meet (around the 19th.)

with both places held, look at the middle frets (7-9th)

is the string laying on the fretwire there?
Jenneh

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#7
Yup they're new strings but I got them through the buzzy sounding stage. Right now it's just plain old fret buzz.

And the neck curvature seems alright and just to be sure i checked again. It's just right. So I'm still stumped
#8
Quote by NovusOrdo
Yup they're new strings but I got them through the buzzy sounding stage. Right now it's just plain old fret buzz.

And the neck curvature seems alright and just to be sure i checked again. It's just right. So I'm still stumped



just right?

what fits in the gap?

a medium pick? 2 medium picks?


the lighter gauge allowed the neck to relax. that will cause some buzz.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
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#9
Quote by jj1565

the lighter gauge allowed the neck to relax. that will cause some buzz.


This. Yer probably gonna need to adjust yer Truss. If you had the neck set up perfect on 11s, the 10s have less pull on the neck and yer not gonna have that opposite-polarity-neck-pullin-whatchamacallits on it

Do you know how to set up your own guitar Ordo?
#10
I'd say 1 medium pick and a half (weird measurement I know).

And I know how to set it up for the most part. One thing I never really touched was the truss rod so this might be a slight challenge.
#11
Quote by NovusOrdo
I'd say 1 medium pick and a half (weird measurement I know).

And I know how to set it up for the most part. One thing I never really touched was the truss rod so this might be a slight challenge.



you can use a little more gap.
if you have the right wrench and want to adjust, then,

turn the truss rod Counter Clockwise, 1/8 of a turn.

don't force the turn and leave it in tune while it settles tonight.

1/8 turn is a very small amount.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
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#12
Quote by NovusOrdo
I'd say 1 medium pick and a half (weird measurement I know).

And I know how to set it up for the most part. One thing I never really touched was the truss rod so this might be a slight challenge.


Are you going to stay on 10s for a while?

SPARTAEDIT: Adjustments can take up to three weeks to set, according to my handbook.
Last edited by Ghost of Sparta at Jun 3, 2010,
#13
Quote by jj1565
you can use a little more gap.
if you have the right wrench and want to adjust, then,

turn the truss rod Counter Clockwise, 1/8 of a turn.

don't force the turn and leave it in tune while it settles tonight.

1/8 turn is a very small amount.

I guess I'll try with the truss rod adjustment.

How long do the adjustments need to "settle"? And are there any major points I should know before doing this?

Because people always say not to even touch the truss rod unless you know what you're doing so I feel as if i might break the guitar with a single turn of a screw or something.

EDIT: Yup I'm gonna permanently switch to Ernie Ball Hybrids (9-46 [9 gauge on the thinner and 10 gauge on the thicker]) on this guitar.
Last edited by NovusOrdo at Jun 3, 2010,
#14
Quote by NovusOrdo

EDIT: Yup I'm gonna permanently switch to Ernie Ball Hybrids (9-46 [9 gauge on the thinner and 10 gauge on the thicker]) on this guitar.


K, well you're gonna need some Truss adjustments than.

You can take the neck off since you have an Epi SII, OR you can take the tension off the neck by unwinding the strings completely till they're completely flappywobble twat. Take the truss cover off. I hope you have a straigtedge? If you do great, if not, a piece of paper will do fine or you can use your eye, in which case I don't really suggest.

Adjust the neck in 1/8th increments until the neck is perfectly straight with whichever tool you're using.

String 'er back up. My handbook says that after the setup, you're going to want to set it back up in about three weeks, "because as the wood fibers set, the neck will bow just a little more". So your guitars three week checkup is gonna be for fine tuning and such.

I hope that helps bro.

PS: Put yer truss cover back on
#15
Quote by NovusOrdo
I guess I'll try with the truss rod adjustment.

How long do the adjustments need to "settle"? And are there any major points I should know before doing this?

Because people always say not to even touch the truss rod unless you know what you're doing so I feel as if i might break the guitar with a single turn of a screw or something.

EDIT: Yup I'm gonna permanently switch to Ernie Ball Hybrids (9-46 [9 gauge on the thinner and 10 gauge on the thicker]) on this guitar.



it's not hard. ^don't worry about all that stuff.

you don't need a straight edge. when you fret the first and last, that's your straight line.

just adjust that small amount, don't force the turn and leave it in tune over night, and see if it plays a little better tomorrow.

if not then post back.

ive been talking guys thru truss rod adjustments for many years here.

you asked, and now you know what you're doing and you'll be fine.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
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#16
Quote by Ghost of Sparta
K, well you're gonna need some Truss adjustments than.

You can take the neck off since you have an Epi SII, OR you can take the tension off the neck by unwinding the strings completely till they're completely flappywobble twat. Take the truss cover off. I hope you have a straigtedge? If you do great, if not, a piece of paper will do fine or you can use your eye, in which case I don't really suggest.

Adjust the neck in 1/8th increments until the neck is perfectly straight with whichever tool you're using.

String 'er back up. My handbook says that after the setup, you're going to want to set it back up in about three weeks, "because as the wood fibers set, the neck will bow just a little more". So your guitars three week checkup is gonna be for fine tuning and such.

I hope that helps bro.

PS: Put yer truss cover back on


not sure about your handbook, but you've got some problems with your post here.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#17
Quote by jj1565
not sure about your handbook, but you've got some problems with your post here.


Do tell.
#18
im sort of tired for a lesson, to be honest, there's like 4 or 5 things.

you dont take the neck off any guitar to adjust the rod.

you dont completely loosen all the strings to adjust the rod. in this case the neck is already too straight.

you dont need, or want the neck to be straight.

you dont turn in any increments without waiting for the neck to settle.

you dont string it back up, you should be strung up.

you dont set it up at set times, just when needed.

edit: turns out it was the whole entire post.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#19
Right. I'm no pro, but the tension exherted by the strings should be enough for the strings to ring and allow them to vibrate in their circular path? I always figured that 10s should provide just enough bow for that if the neck is straight.

Also, I never said at set times. A three week checkup to let the wood fibers set and then check. I never figured that wood could set properly in under a night?

On a side note, I never knew about the fretting trick. I suppose you are recognized by the GB&C though. Listen to this guy OP.
#20
Ok now I know what to do.....for the most part. The only question I have now (sorry to be a complete noob about this but I've never adjusted a truss rod) is how to do the actual adjusting. I removed the cover on the headstock and I can see the end of the rod when I look inside the cavity in the direction pointing towards the bridge.

My question is with what do I adjust the rod?
#21
Quote by NovusOrdo
Ok now I know what to do.....for the most part. The only question I have now (sorry to be a complete noob about this but I've never adjusted a truss rod) is how to do the actual adjusting. I removed the cover on the headstock and I can see the end of the rod when I look inside the cavity in the direction pointing towards the bridge.

My question is with what do I adjust the rod?


to repeat a little here....

you can use a little more gap.
if you have the right allen wrench and want to adjust, then,

turn the truss rod Counter Clockwise, 1/8 of a turn.
the truss rod is the end you're looking at, after you take off the cover.


don't force the turn and leave it in tune while it settles tonight.

1/8 turn is a very small amount.

look at the nut in the hole there.
picture it as a clock face and turn ever so slightly, Counter Clockwise.


then tune up and measure it again later. don't adjust it any more than that today.
don't force the turn and post back with any questions.
__________________
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#22
Ah ok turns out I was using the wrong tool but I found an allen wrench and it works. Well thanks for your time and patience.
#23
no problem. for any reason you need to, post back and we'll go over it.

Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011