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#1
As the title suggests I'm going to build a ruby, it'll be the first electronics work I've done aside from pickup wiring and cable repair. I can solder well and I can read simple schematics, sort of. None the less I still have a few questions.

To start I'm using this Schematic: http://www.runoffgroove.com/ruby.html
And this wiring diagram: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ruby.pdf
I'm gonna give it a headphone jack too.

EDIT: New question: How should I ground it, would they all go to a common wire and then ground to the case or a pot's casing. I understand everything else but grounding always confuses the hell out of me.

EDIT2: Pics on page 3 post #54

Any help would be appreciated, and anything I can learn about electronics is also appreciated. Hopefully this will be a good learning experience, there's so much stuff on electronics its hard to learn without being confused by all the more complicated stuff. The whole uF = mF thing threw me off for the longest time.
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Last edited by robertito696 at Jun 14, 2010,
#2
ive built all three battery amps from ROG, theyre all small, they all sound great for the size (and they are tiny). i doubt it would overheat with a distortion in front, its just altering the signal, unless you use say, a tubescreamer. then it might. otherwise, go for it.

as for the stereo input disabling the need for an on/off, unless you show me how youre wiring it, no, you still need an on off.
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Last edited by TK1 at Jun 6, 2010,
#3
Alright, I was worried it would boost the signal too heavily.

I thought I read somewhere that a stereo jack would cut the signal when nothing's in the input, the way EMGs drain the battery if you leave it plugged in, could be wrong.

EDIT: If I do need an on/off would I just use an on-on switch and wire on1 to complete the circuit and leave on2 empty? If that makes any sense.

EDIT2: Its 12:30 here in MA, I'm going to bed, I'll try and sort everything out in the morning when I'm not so tired.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
Last edited by robertito696 at Jun 6, 2010,
#4
Quote by robertito696
Alright, I was worried it would boost the signal too heavily.

I thought I read somewhere that a stereo jack would cut the signal when nothing's in the input, the way EMGs drain the battery if you leave it plugged in, could be wrong.

EDIT: If I do need an on/off would I just use an on-on switch and wire on1 to complete the circuit and leave on2 empty? If that makes any sense.

EDIT2: Its 12:30 here in MA, I'm going to bed, I'll try and sort everything out in the morning when I'm not so tired.


1. yeah, if you wire the battery to the jack and plugging it closes the circuit yes, it will drain the battery because it will be on all the time if you leave it pluged in

2. you shouldnt, just a simple switch should be fine

3. nighty night!
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#5
This should be fun to watch, I've been meaning to make one of these.
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#8
I'm building the same exact amp at the moment, and I'm at about the same level as you, more or less. I've had a couple questions answered by the awesome people on this site, which I will share with you the best I can:

1. I believe this depends on the specific 386 you use, if you use the low-power LM386-N1 or something like that, it may overheat with too much input, but I think you would be fine, since most distortion pedals don't boost the signal too much, to the point it'd break the amp. As for the clipping, just keep the gain low.

2. I think there's a specific way you have to wire it, or else it doesn't work right. I think a basic on/off switch would be better, imo. And I also think you'd have to wire the amp differently to have it stereo output. I may be wrong on this though.

3. Machine pin or dual leaf socket? No idea on the difference.

Me either.

4. The ruby amp really is tiny, I'm not sure one the exact proportions of that board, but 213 holes should be more than enough.

Any help would be appreciated, and anything I can learn about electronics is also appreciated. Hopefully this will be a good learning experience, there's so much stuff on electronics its hard to learn without being confused by all the more complicated stuff. The whole uF = mF thing threw me off for the longest time.


Yeah, same here, this has definitely been a learning experience for me, and I haven't even built the thing yet.

And yeah, the odd measurements confused the heck out of me, but luckily for me, the awesome people on here helped me with that.

As I said, I'm on about the same level as you, but I hoped I helped at least a little. :\

#9
technically, µF isn't the same as mF, as µF is 10^-6 while m is 10^-3, but i'm assuming you used the letter m to stand for micro, not milli.

Hope this turns out good, I'm planning a similar build, but with a couple built in effects.

If anyone has any idea on where to get a small 3-4" diameter speaker, I would really like to know where.


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#10
Quote by MonkeyLink07
technically, µF isn't the same as mF, as µF is 10^-6 while m is 10^-3, but i'm assuming you used the letter m to stand for micro, not milli.

Hope this turns out good, I'm planning a similar build, but with a couple built in effects.

If anyone has any idea on where to get a small 3-4" diameter speaker, I would really like to know where.


I'm getting my speakers from digikey.com, they literally have hundreds of speakers listed on that site...
#11
Quote by MonkeyLink07
technically, µF isn't the same as mF, as µF is 10^-6 while m is 10^-3, but i'm assuming you used the letter m to stand for micro, not milli.

Hope this turns out good, I'm planning a similar build, but with a couple built in effects.

If anyone has any idea on where to get a small 3-4" diameter speaker, I would really like to know where.

Yeah I meant micro.

I found an alternate schematic with a dirt switch and a tone knob so I'm going work that into the original. Here's the schematic if anyone's interested. http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/NoisyCricket/Noisy_Cricket_Schematic.gif

EDIT: I'll try to be diligent about pics, seems like more people are interested than I thought.
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Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
Last edited by robertito696 at Jun 7, 2010,
#12
On question 1 - what'll make the LM386 overheat is more what's happening on the output (specifically the load)...and for how long the condition is held (coupled with voltage supply).

For example if you connected a 4 ohm speaker & a 12V supply, potentially, you're gonna get a 10V peak to peak (3.5V RMS) signal into 4 ohms. That works out at 1.14A delivered into the load or a whopping 4W - for sucha small package that's positively nuclear.

But if you run your LM386 into 8 Ohms, and at a more modest 9V supply, that gives a max signal of about 8Vpeak to peak (2.83V RMS) - working out at 353mA or 1W - this is pushing the little DIL package for it's ability to dissapate heat, but so long as you don't run it for long at that kind of level, it should be able to cope.

So in answer to the question ...providing your LM386 supply voltage is 9V or less, your speaker is 8 Ohms or more, then you won't burn it out so long as you don't run your LM386 at such a max input level for too long.
Last edited by HankMcSpank at Jun 7, 2010,
#13
Nice find. I might go for that since they have the generic PCB from Radio Shack!

Thanks
#14
^^Thanks. I'm surprised that made sense to me. I read somewhere that 8 ohm is the sweet spot with a 9v. The speaker in my 1x12 is 8ohm anyway, so i shouldn't have any problems.

I think I'm going to order the parts today, actual build should start this weekend. Prepare for a flood of noobliness.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
#15
Oh, and on the sockets, the machine pin socket is more like a hole, you just push the leg down into it, while the dual leaf has two leafs with push against the inserted wire. They would probably both work, it's up to you.


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#16
I think I'm going to use dual leaf, mostly because its cheaper. I only need to solder the socket though, right? I solder the socket to the board and just insert the 386.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
#17
Should be a fun little build. I'm building a Noisy Cricket from Beavis Audio right now. Kinda the same deal only it has Vol, Tone, Gain, and a power and grit switch, with LED's for the power and grit. I'm building it into one of those small plastic project enclosures from Radioshack.

For the speaker I'm getting a Jensen MOD5 5" speaker. Prolly gonna build it into the big 8"x6"x3" project enlcosure also from Radioshack so it matches the head. Then use velcro so they can attatch to each other...like a little mini stack for teh br00talz
#20
Chip46, I'm actually doing the noisy cricket too. I'm going to add a headphone jack and run it through my 1x12 when I can. My aunt just had a baby so I doubt I'll get to do much loud jamming this summer.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
#21
Wow, it seems like everyone is building tiny amps :P:

Mine is the noisy cricket, a digital reverb, and a distortion pedal called the Insanity Box all in one. Each will have their own on/off switches and knobs, with true bypass.

It will be housed in a a 10x5x3 aluminum box, will be painted white with black lettering, black knobs and blue LEDs.

I will have a small speaker, maybe 4 inches D that will be built in. I will be running it with 3 9V in parallel. It will have a speaker jack, a headphone jack, and an "out" jack. When something is plugged into any of their respective jacks, it will kill the signal to the built in speaker.

The headphone will send it to a headphone, The speaker jack to whatever is plugged into the speaker jack output, and the "out" jack will cut the signal before the actual mini-amp, allowing me to use the Distortion or Reverb just like any normal pedal.


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#23
Quote by MonkeyLink07
Wow, it seems like everyone is building tiny amps :P:

Mine is the noisy cricket, a digital reverb, and a distortion pedal called the Insanity Box all in one. Each will have their own on/off switches and knobs, with true bypass.

I'm just building it for the simplicity. In the end I want to be able to do most, if not all repairs, to my gear, bench fees are a bitch. This is just to get me started.

That sounds cool. Have you started it yet? I'd like to hear clips when its done.

Also, Poly film vs Ceramic caps. I've heard mixed opinions on the matter. I'm interested in whether or not they're worth it for the price, polys almost twice as expensive.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
#24
No, just been getting prices, and until I finish a fuzz that just needs to be painted. And I'm not sure about the caps, I've heard different caps sound different, but a lot of people say just try them until you find a type you like.


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#25
The difference in price is 15 cents, I think Ill buy both and maybe a breadboard and see which I like best.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
#26
Of course leave it to Radio Shack to not have any of those PC boards in stock.
#28
Quote by MonkeyLink07
Wow, it seems like everyone is building tiny amps :P:

Mine is the noisy cricket, a digital reverb, and a distortion pedal called the Insanity Box all in one. Each will have their own on/off switches and knobs, with true bypass.

It will be housed in a a 10x5x3 aluminum box, will be painted white with black lettering, black knobs and blue LEDs.

I will have a small speaker, maybe 4 inches D that will be built in. I will be running it with 3 9V in parallel. It will have a speaker jack, a headphone jack, and an "out" jack. When something is plugged into any of their respective jacks, it will kill the signal to the built in speaker.

The headphone will send it to a headphone, The speaker jack to whatever is plugged into the speaker jack output, and the "out" jack will cut the signal before the actual mini-amp, allowing me to use the Distortion or Reverb just like any normal pedal.


Haha, yeah... I'm building a ruby at the moment, it's my first amp build. If all goes well, I'll try fix my distortion circuit and put it in front for more overdrive/distortion.

I'm doing a similar thing to you as far as the auxiliary jacks, except I'll be using a switch to switch between the headphone/output jack, and the speaker.

Pretty basic, I suppose.
#30
Yeah, the only reason I'm going with the extra jacks and not switches are because with the way I'm planning on wiring it, I won't need to flick switches, just insert a jack and it changes speakers/outputs.


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#31
This is already coming together for me. I've got the chassis. I just ordered my Jensen Mod5 from Amazon. I've been taking apart electronics around the house looking for all the parts I could find.
Now I just have to wait for the radio shack general use PCB. I found one in stock in a store across the state. A friend of mine who lives near there is going to stock up on them for me .
#32
I ordered all the parts yesterday, just need a case. So, what should I use for a case? Here are my ideas:

1. A magic 8 ball, little shit always lies to me, I'd be glad to smash her open.
2. Clear acrylic cube I have, about 3"x3x3.
3. A standard aluminum case from smallbear, I'm planning to build a voltage sagger for my muff anyway, I could order it then.

Any other ideas?
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
#33
A 5L mini keg or even any other beer can thats big enough...

Or the cube I like clear stuff so you can see all the neat electronics.

Or an old metal lunch pale. A cool one like transformers or TMNT
#34
Quote by robertito696
I ordered all the parts yesterday, just need a case. So, what should I use for a case? Here are my ideas:

1. A magic 8 ball, little shit always lies to me, I'd be glad to smash her open.
2. Clear acrylic cube I have, about 3"x3x3.
3. A standard aluminum case from smallbear, I'm planning to build a voltage sagger for my muff anyway, I could order it then.

Any other ideas?


The small bear enclosures are good. I'm just using a Radioshack plastic abs project enclosure. The generic black ones that come with the option of a metal or plastic back. I used a metal enclosure for my fuzz pedal and it was a biotch to drill the holes so I figured plastic would be much easier to deal with.
#35
When you get up to it, if you ever feel liking making another one or modding this one bridging two chips, changing it to 12 v and using a higher ohm speaker are relatively easy mods to do that make the ruby sound a little nicer in my mind. Adds some headroom. I also put some LED's in mine to make it light up brightly when on.

And as far as enclosures go, I used a shoe box and chrome duct tape. I put three speakers in it to use the size, and the 8AA's take up quite a bit of room. You could probably just use 18 v and limit it down if you wanted to go for 12v without space.

You probably won't find a schematic for a bridged ruby amp out there though, but you can figure it out just off of google searches.
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Last edited by C/ruel at Jun 9, 2010,
#36
Quote by C/ruel

You probably won't find a schematic for a bridged ruby amp out there though, but you can figure it out just off of google searches.


Or sidestep the grief & just use a proper bridged chip like a TDA7052 (& which needs less supporting components than an LM386 chip in the first place)....I'm amazed the LM386 is still so popular in the face of more modern chips - I often feel the urge to grow some massive sidebruns & start singin "Everybody was kung fu fighting" whenever I read of folks still using them.

A word of warning ...increasing the supply voltage along with bridging amps gives you a lot more output (4x the power)...and with it a whole lot more heat! You're def gonna toast a lot more ICs if you don't know what you're doing!
Last edited by HankMcSpank at Jun 9, 2010,
#37
I wen twit the 386 based ruby just because of the availability of schems and its simplicity. Might try a TDA7082 or something down the road.

I'm going to use an external cab or headphones so i don;t need space for speakers in the case.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
#38
I'm kinda thinking about picking up a rotary switch so I can do a simple tone pot that's more versatile than the standard tone config on most of these amps. Like here on BeavisAudio, scroll down to "Roll Your Own Tone Stack". Seems like it could be a cool mod if you wanted a broader tone range for the tone control.
#39
I think the Magic 8 Ball would be awesome to use as a chassis, metal encloseures are so over-rated. You may have trouble getting the stuff in, but there is always the option of sawing it in half and then gluing it back together...


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#40
The plan was to cut it, It has a crease where the two halves were glued originally so I'll cut it there. I still have to drain all the blue fluid anyway. Maybe I'll use the triangle thing with the answers on it as a knob.
For Frodo!
Quote by jrcsgtpeppers
No because a world full of marbles silly man is just as real as a half empty glass of microwaved nesquik.
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