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#1
(Warning: Lots of pictures)


After my guitar was dropped, I've been meaning to repair and refinish it, the plan is to break this project down into two small sections, first the body, and later the neck.

I'll start with removing the finish on the body, fixing and filling the damaged area around the tone pot, applying a Walnut Burl veneer to the face of the body and Tru-Oiling it - when I have another gap of free time, I'll strip the neck and apply the same veneer to the headstock, polish the frets and Tru-Oil finish it.

So here's the damage:






And now inside the cavity:


It's a hard picture to take, but what's happened is some of the wood has splintered away, I plan on injecting glue into the gap, and clamping it back into shape, the filling the chip on the front with body filler.


Here's the guitar:


And Veneer:

I've got the feeling I will have to flatten these before using them, quite wavey, though I guess that's to be expected with burl veneers. I have 8 sheets, so I have room to make mistakes and choose the nicest figure. (whatever I have left I will sell on.)


I'm still waiting on the postman to deliver the Tru-oil and Titebond, when I have some spare cash I'll replace all hardware with Schaller, can't wait to get this thing started!

Nice one.
Last edited by Blast For Satan at Jun 19, 2010,
#2
Looks nice, I've always liked the look of Parkers. Good luck, the veneer looks nice.
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#3
Nice veneer and nice guitar. I'm following this one.
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#4
Now, if I remember correctly, some parkers use a very soft body wood, like pine, which is a b*tch to finish, so they have a shell of paint on them. From what I can tell, this guitar has a mahogany body, so you shouldn't have to worry about that

anyway, love burls, they are very nice, and it being walnut is even better, MMMmmm..

EDIT: Also, pics are BIG, you might want to make them smaller.


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RBY CYOA
#5
Thanks guys, appreciate it!

Yep, you're spot on, it's a Mahogany body. iir the only Parkers that used Pine was the Artist line and Spanish Fly (could be wrong, but I'm sure they were Spruce.)
Definitely, Walnut has to be one of my top favourite woods, along with Ziricote and Koa.

Okay cool, it's a bit late, I'll reupload smaller pictures in the morning.

Just realized I need to pickup some liquid rosin flux and some new pots...
Last edited by Blast For Satan at Jun 8, 2010,
#6
A little update:

Taped up the fretboard ready to have the frets polished.


Body stripped of all electronics and hardware.



Here I applied the Nitromors Specialist Paint Remover. (nasty nasty stuff when it gets on your skin!)


It took a good 10-15 minutes to reach this stage.



Another 10 minutes went by.
#7
Roughly 35-40 minutes after I first applied the stripper. (This finish was almost bullet proof...)



Despite the odd patterns left when stripping the paint, I have been carefully scrapping it off with the grain.



Another coating of the stripper.


And another.


And another...


Due to the weather, I moved indoors to finish the stripping process.


A close up of the salt/sugar like residue the Nitromors leaves behind when eating the sealer/primer (whatever it was they used)


And this is the guitar currently. (Slightly wet due to the Methylated Spirit I used to remove the stripper.)


Sunday I start to lightly sand the body as I missed a few specs of paint, and I want to get that stuff out of the grain and have it ready for Monday where I plan on adding the veneer top to the guitar. I have over 100kgs of kiln dried sand that I plan on using as a weight to get a good result with the veneer.
#8
Wow, that looked nasty, but it did a good job. The veneer will look great.


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RBY CYOA
#9
Cheers!

The guitar is completely dry now, which has shown some ugly looking glue marks at the joins - I don't care much for the face of the guitar due to it being covered with veneer, but I do care about the sides and rear.

What grit sand paper should I start with to remove the glue marks?

Thanks.


EDIT: Almost forgot to post the photos of the glue.




Last edited by Blast For Satan at Jun 19, 2010,
#10
I'd say start at 220. Still takes a good amount of material off but doesn't have the bite of 100 and lower looks pretty sweet btw I've been dieing to get my hands on a parker.
#11
That paint and finish remover stuff looks too easy to strip paint off of...Are there any side effects and things that can go wrong? (other than say, drinking a cup of it)

Also if you guys don't mind, do you reckon I could use that on the guitar (link in sig) or do I need to sand what I think might be die.

Sorry for the hijack!
Shame about the glue, because that wood looks really nice.
That Veneer looks tasty, how much did it cost you?
#12
Thanks Shashin! Me too, it's a shame they stopped making the P series, they weren't too bad for the price, hopefully I'll nab a Fly on eBay for cheap - recently saw an old Deluxe go for £600!


Mr.Meh, yep it is pretty easy, and really easy to put too much on... as far as I have seen, there's no side effects using it (other than burning myself a few times,) hasn't left a residue in the wood itself, or any smells - but if you do go the chemical stripping route, wear chemical gloves (stuff burns like acid,) and keep it far away from inlays/binding, as it eats plastic fast!

You can always try it out, they sell in smaller and cheaper 250ml tins. I can't say with all certainty that it will remove the dye, it might do, but it will definitely remove the finish. You'll probably have to do light sanding afterwards anyways which will remove the dye.

I used the Specialist Varnish & Laquer Remover (red one)http://www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk/nitromors/pvremovers.html as it strips poly finishes.

The veneer I got on eBay, £30 for 8 leaves, a few are unusable unfortunately, the owner left nasty score marks on them. but I can use those for control cavity covers, headstocks and other bits and bobs.
Last edited by Blast For Satan at Jun 20, 2010,
#13
Small update:

Filled and sanded.


Centre line marked, and taped.


Taped on the veneer.



Applied the glue, and press/weight.



Other side glued.
Last edited by Blast For Satan at Jul 19, 2010,
#14
Started sanding.



Applied a spirit for a rough idea of what it'd look like with an oil finish.


More sanding.


And more...



all that's left now is to sand smooth the edges (almost completed, will update with pictures tomorrow sometime) one final sanding, clean and oil it. Can't wait to finally finish this!
#15
Wow, that looks amazing, apart from that little discoloration in the upper horn, it looks great


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#16
Thanks!

Unfortunately that part was unavoidable - after closer inspection, the veneers had a lot of issues, the owner thought it was a good idea to put a score mark through pretty much every veneer, so I couldn't do it the way I intended, ahwell, I'm quite pleased with it so far. Despite the few mishaps I've encountered... but hey, it's my first try!
#17
wow, this whole thing looks awesome!


where did you get that paint stripper? it seems to have worked well.
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#19
ah, you're across the pond from me, that could cause problems. but ill go look around and see what i can find
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#20
Heh, I'm sure it's available on your side of the pond, or atleast something similar, just a different name?

What are you planning on stripping? A guitar?
#21
Quote by Blast For Satan
Heh, I'm sure it's available on your side of the pond, or atleast something similar, just a different name?

What are you planning on stripping? A guitar?



yep, several of them actually. 5 to be exact.

the problem is they range from cheapo guitars that have a half inch thick (or you'd think atleast) paint job to a very nice one on a high-end jackson.
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#22
Nice one! If you do go with the chemical stripper, just be real careful not to get it on any plastic binding/inlays...
The good thing is that it just cuts down on all the sanding work, and makes a refinishing project that much easier.


Small update:

Applied the first layer of oil:

#23
Second layer:




Third layer:




I used my fingers for the third application, just to see the difference, I think I'll be using that method from now on as it wastes less oil, and it's so much more easier.
#24
Fourth coat.


It's probably not going to be a perfect finish, but I'm happy with it atleast, came out better than I had hoped. Fun process, learnt a lot of skills that will come in handy in the real world.
#25
thats slick man, i bet you added a little bit of value to the guitar too, i cant stand plain colors on parkers that are dark
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#26
Be cool if I did, but I doubt it they're gone down in price since they first came out, plus the P series isn't in production anymore... thanks though

Yeah I prefer natural finishes over solid colours, unfortunately it was only available in 3 colours at the time, blue, grey and metalic black.
Last edited by Blast For Satan at Jul 25, 2010,
#27
It would be cool if you cut the upper horn down to where the veneer is, sorta like a bastardized tele. Meh at least you wouldn't have the mismatched wood.
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#28
That'd look rather interesting, but I think I'll pass up on that idea.
Unfortunately I couldn't avoid the lighter colour on the upper horn, the veneer had a bunch of score marks and this positioning was the only choice I had - by the time I noticed the score marks, it was far too late to bother with a refund. Either way, I like the colour difference, adds a unique character in my opinion.

Cool name btw.
#30
looking sexy dude
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#32
Thanks guys, I will when I get a slot of free time, also stain the back of the neck with a Walnut stain, then oil it, leaving the headstock shiney and the back of the neck satin.
#33
That is so sexy.. I WANT IT!!!!
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

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#35
Am I the only one that really likes that "mismatched" upper horn?
I think it gives it a little contrast and personality.
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#36
Quote by Sleaze Disease
Am I the only one that really likes that "mismatched" upper horn?
I think it gives it a little contrast and personality.


My thoughts exactly!
#37
Quote by Sleaze Disease
Am I the only one that really likes that "mismatched" upper horn?
I think it gives it a little contrast and personality.

I love it
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

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#38
Thanks Shinozoku, really appreciate it!


Small update:

Final coat, bolted neck on (will eventually get around to making all hardware gold, and new pickups).



Shielded the electronics cavity.



As soon as the paint dries, I'll move on to soldering, then I can finally start playing it again!!!
Last edited by Blast For Satan at Jul 29, 2010,
#39
That thing looks great man. Nice woods.
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