Not sure if this should go in another thread. If so mods feel free to move it.

I need to replace the input jack on my SVT-3 Pro. A local shop wanted $120 to do this, so I told them where to stick it.

Ampeg customer support isn't being very helpful at the moment. Could someone knowledgeable please verify this is the correct part I need?


It appears to be the same one, but the picture and description are not very detailed. Also, any tips on removing the previous one from the PCB? It's pretty tight quarters in there. Never did anything like this before, but I'm having my experienced friend help.

On another note, is there an easy way to tell what shape my tubes are in? I thought this head was less than 2 years old but Ampeg tells me by the S/N it's 11 years old. No idea when they were last replaced. How exactly does the tubes being old affect the amp? Are we just talking tone, or actual rms power output and such? Since the power amp is SS I'm assuming just the tone is affected which, at the moment, sounds quite nice other than the crackling I'm getting from the bad input jack.
If you're lucky, pre amp tubes can last indefinitely. So there's no need to worry about them unless/until there's a problem with them.
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**** you gilly, it's not what you think
Did some research and now realize I'll have to completely remove the PCB from the enclosure to access the bottom and desolder. Not sure if I feel like doing this now. Depends how low I can get a local repair shop to go.
I'm going to do something similar for my 'lil Marshall, but for the gain pot. Again, I'll have to completely remove the PCB off the chassis to do it.
But this is why your shop wants $120 for the job, it's the labour cost of the time involved. Changing the socket is a 2 minute job, and not a difficult one at that. The only way I could see that you'd get a worthwhile cut off the quote, is to partially strip the amp yourself. From there, you might as well crack on, and do the job.
At least (from memory) not that much of the Ampeg's controls are actually attached to the faceplate; the rocker or push switches are board mounted, as are the EQ sliders. which leaves unbolting sockets, and a few pot shafts. Should all be pretty straightforward, I'd think.
Actually found a local guy who will do it for $45. I would do it myself, but I'll save solder work on the PCB for a day when I have a project amp to work on. You're right, it doesn't look too difficult. But I don't want to run into an issue and not have a gigging amp! Thanks for the advice though. It was helpful!