#1
So I wentsded to my mail box, opened it up and found something in there. I brought that thing home, opened it up and found a couple things in there. One of those things was this box.







So inside this nifty box was this:













family shot (yeah I'm messy):



So yeah... I've already done a video of one of his other SHO clones ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnSSvIbR-NU ), and honestly, it's an SHO, so I don't really know what kind of review you want... it's an awesome booster, and I use it at the front of my chain and on at all times. Gives a bit more clarity to my sound.

Now matt, what I need to know: you said I can use up to 18v, so what does using more power do? Cause I can run 9v, 12v, or 16v into it from my supa charger. I just don't know what difference it makes.

Also, what are the differences between those op amps you sent me for the eternity? And I have no experience with socketed ones, so how do you swap em? Just yank em out or is there a correct procedure? lol
#4
Quote by stykerwolf
pics no work?


?? they dont?

i see them, and i have them hosted the same way i always have...
#5
Wow, super booteek.

HNPD.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
What the hell is a G&L.



Quote by Flux'D
Gay & Lesbian I think, the box smelled funny
Greg what did you send me??
#11
Quote by gregs1020


clips tonite?


hmm yeah im home alone all day so i guess i can record some clips in a little bit
#13
i'll play around with settings and mic placement etc. later when I don't have as much to do, but here is a one run vid

i kinda forgot until it a few mins in that my amp doesnt like my neck pickup when its being boosted into overdriving... so you can hear me switch it both pups. probably shoulda switched it all the way to the bridge. oh well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t44gfRuDStA
#14
Basically, by running at a higher voltage you'd gain a bit more headroom and output. Neither is needed though, I wouldn't run it past 12V as the BS170 is spec'd for 20 G-S but due to variance it could be a tad higher or lower. That's why I said if you use 18V, it must be regulated so it doesn't stray any higher. And for the op-amps, there should be a either a notch or dot on one end. The notch should line up with the notch in the socket, the dot should be on the left side of the side with the notch. I don't remember which ones I sent you, if you post pics I can tell you for each one.

The notch is on the side with the gray in this pic.


Also, I hope you enjoy those mojo right angle bends I put in.

EDIT: And for removing and replacing them, just pull it while holding down the board. You shouldn't have to use much force. The other op-amps' leads haven't been bent yet but just push them in until they line up with the holes. Then push until the bottom touches the top of the socket. Some will sound cleaner and smoother, some will sound grittier. Try the BB OPA2134 for lowest noise and smoothest tone, the JRCs for the grittiest tone and the others pretty much fall in the middle. Also, be careful when handling them. They're static sensitive and a small discharge could fry them. Once they're in the circuit, they're good though.
E-peen:
Rhodes Gemini
Fryette Ultra Lead
Peavey 6505
THD Flexi 50

Gibson R0 Prototype
EBMM JP13 Rosewood
Fender CS Mary Kaye

WTLT

(512) Audio Engineering - Custom Pedal Builds, Mods and Repairs
Last edited by mmolteratx at Jun 18, 2010,
#15




thats as best as i can get. theres one more that for the life of me i cannot get a clear pic of. i need a magnifying glass to see the writing period

these things are tiny lol
#16
Ah. Didn't realize the writing on all of them was oriented the same, I never took most of them out of that little tube. All you have to do is make sure that the writing is oriented the same as the one in the pic.
E-peen:
Rhodes Gemini
Fryette Ultra Lead
Peavey 6505
THD Flexi 50

Gibson R0 Prototype
EBMM JP13 Rosewood
Fender CS Mary Kaye

WTLT

(512) Audio Engineering - Custom Pedal Builds, Mods and Repairs
#18
Quote by kurtlives91
So who is this kid who is rippin clones in his mom's basement and selling them?

Happy NPD TS?


... in my book its perfectly reasonable/normal for a 17yr old high school student to live with his mom
#20
Me. Not sure what your last post was about, both were sold to him for the cost of parts. The awkward Sharpied officialness is for lulz on my part.
E-peen:
Rhodes Gemini
Fryette Ultra Lead
Peavey 6505
THD Flexi 50

Gibson R0 Prototype
EBMM JP13 Rosewood
Fender CS Mary Kaye

WTLT

(512) Audio Engineering - Custom Pedal Builds, Mods and Repairs
#23
Cool pedal, Joe!

Nice work, Matt. Only 17 years old? I'm impressed! At 17, I didn't know my ass from a hole in the ground when it came to anything technical!
#24
Quote by kurtlives91
Ah cool, was just wondering.


Ah. The last post came across as semi-hostile over the internet. But yea, building clone pedals for a profit is weird to me. The only thing I've sold for profit was the '69 clone in my sig and that's because I sold it for $20 over my parts cost. Nothing I've built is as nice as anything I've seen from you though. I tend to stick to fairly simple stuff, especially when building in perf board.



EDIT: ^ You seen kurtlives's builds? He's not even 20 yet.

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1245974&page=2&pp=40
E-peen:
Rhodes Gemini
Fryette Ultra Lead
Peavey 6505
THD Flexi 50

Gibson R0 Prototype
EBMM JP13 Rosewood
Fender CS Mary Kaye

WTLT

(512) Audio Engineering - Custom Pedal Builds, Mods and Repairs
Last edited by mmolteratx at Jun 18, 2010,
#25
So, how much does one of these clones run, if you don't mind me asking?
We've dressed up in our best...

...and are prepared to go down like gentlemen.

Quote by bogg808
The PBT is for those too TGP for the rest of UG.

#26
the SHO? matt parted it out at around 40 bucks or so i believe. then i covered shipping as well
#27
PM'd, Matt.
We've dressed up in our best...

...and are prepared to go down like gentlemen.

Quote by bogg808
The PBT is for those too TGP for the rest of UG.

#28
hah, to put this out there, i dont think matt intends to do this regularly or anything. especially since he did it for parts. i mean, he can correct me if im wrong, i just dont want everyone to think he'll pop these out to whoever asks for 40 +shipping.

it was just a favor i asked him
#29
^What he said.

I'd rather not start building a bunch of SHO clones or a bunch anything. I build one of a circuit for myself to test out and that's typically it. I'd do them on occasion if people want for the cost of parts but like I said in my PM to mcraddict, I've got to find another source of drilled enclosures or have the need to rent a drill press to do some. And I haven't had a whole lot of spare time this last week and I'll likely have even less in the coming weeks as a friend who moved that I see once every year or two is in town. So if you really, really want one, it'd be a while before I'm able to build anything. I really just don't have any interest on building a bunch of pedals for people.

If anyone wants to get into this themselves, check out some forums like DIYStompboxes or FreeStompboxes and some parts suppliers like Mouser, Small Bear and the like. For reasons known to me and Joe, I wouldn't recommend Pedal Parts Plus.
E-peen:
Rhodes Gemini
Fryette Ultra Lead
Peavey 6505
THD Flexi 50

Gibson R0 Prototype
EBMM JP13 Rosewood
Fender CS Mary Kaye

WTLT

(512) Audio Engineering - Custom Pedal Builds, Mods and Repairs
#30
Ahhh, totally understandable, thanks anyway.
We've dressed up in our best...

...and are prepared to go down like gentlemen.

Quote by bogg808
The PBT is for those too TGP for the rest of UG.