#1
warmoth.com

I was going for these woods for tone:
Body: I would perfer solid spruce as it does have a very nice sound, but thats barely theseable. SO... how about Bubinga! very heavy wood according to Warmoth, BUT it should "sustain for days" ...of course not literally .

Top: Jatoba looks very nice, and its not the usual typical Maple top. Thats the Brazillian name for that wood, but it's alt. name (along with several others) is "Locust" - much easier to pronounce and remember . from what i've researched that this wood is rarely (if ever) used on any guitar, bass, ect other than that i found that it is easy to glue, and quite a steardy(sp?) wood too. stability is always a great asset + Ivory binding will make it extra strong/steardy.
**tonal qualities?*** no idea, I'm just going for it, see what happends, cant be bad, its gotta be good.

Neck: Koa I've read from various forums from other sites that alot of people are considering this wood to sound somewhere between Mahogany and Maple, and that it is more resonant than mahogany, & it also brings a "sweeter" quality to the sound as well, but does not smooth out the highend like Mahogany does. Though I would really like smooth highs like Mahogany, but I think that Mahog. is alittle too muddy sounding on the neck, and maybe alittle snappy too. I want to avoid the muddiness, and snappiness. oh,yeah, and Koa doesn't get muddy either

Board: Bubinga well, I noticed that no matter what you use tonewoods for (e.g. drum kits, bass, guitar) they seem to bestow the same assets to that instument... according to some bass players Bubinga as a fretboard brings a very "sweet" sound to the tone coming out of it, so it shoul do the same for my instrument just that it'll sound like a tenor guitar instead.

Nut: (not wood of course) white corian (for a clear balanced addition to the overall tambre).

I mostly play low-drop tuned-metal, but I like alot of pristene clean stuff in the mix too with some reverb, chorus, echo, and somtimes some smooth flange in clean stuff, but always coupled with light overdrive for an added 3D sound for my clean channel.

Pickups: Seymour Duncan Blackout set (for 7 strings).
my tuning is as shown: (low to hi) A#, F, A#, D#, G, C, F*extra high string!

I guess what I was looking for in tone was: clear punchy low, smooth/sweet highs, some sustain atleast, balanced good quality tone, but still original.... it wouldn't be so custom if it were jus the ol' 'tried and true', but no doubt there'll be some good midrange in the mix too, cuz I do like to thro in a few smoother/steady gliss type soloage, but NOT muffled top end tho. I am not really crazy about the fast muted speed picking stuff either (altho I do that too SOMEtimes, its a good mix with the steady-gliss stuff once in awhile).

anysuggestions that might make it better siuted my this style, or is it near-perfect the way it is?
Yeah. But the same can be said for DAR amps and other amps which use "weird" tubes...dammit I want a pair of KT120s..I might blow up my amp and burn my house down, but at least I'll go out in a blaze of glory
#2
Oh god this is starting to sound a bit like Tool and their "everything that we own to make music must be custom made. CUSTOM!!!!!! EVERYTHING HAS TO RARE AND CUSTOMIZED!!!!" lol not that it's bad, but just sayin

Anyways, I'm not even close to being a good guitar tech(been playing for almost 3 years and i still can't setup my own guitar, lol) so sorry i couldn't help. I just wanted to make the above joke.
#3
why do you say no to wood for the nut, woods like lignum vitae are great for nuts

but sounds cool. just make sure you are okay with forking over some cash.
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#4
Jatoba is actually difficult to glue because it is extremely oily. You'll need to wipe down the gluing surfaces with acetone shortly before gluing.
#5
The gluing fact was just something I ran across while researching that wood. I wasn't actually considering making it myself, although Warmoth does offer wood blanks for a real DIY'er, which would be fun, but I don't have the wood cutting saws & drills & presses for that, and the heat treatment for the binding. I was just going to have it made by them, although it would be much nicer to have it made by Carvin (I really like their body styles, playability, overall sound quality, etc..).

Oh yeah, they actually don't sport any wood nut material, which seems like a really good idea, BUT then again... I use REALY big strings on my axe, 'cuz I like lots of tension! and price range isn't really an obligation either.

-peace. ty.
Yeah. But the same can be said for DAR amps and other amps which use "weird" tubes...dammit I want a pair of KT120s..I might blow up my amp and burn my house down, but at least I'll go out in a blaze of glory