#1


Is that rise at the end of my fretboard normal?

I'm not thinking it is, and if its not, that would be the problem creating the weird intonation and string buzz issues. Its a Washburn WG587 by the way.

Anyone know what the hell could be wrong?

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#3
Quote by AcousticMirror
it depends? are your strings straight and action fine?


Straight as in paralell to the fretboard? Kinda. They're off slightly. Last time I tried adjusting it it didn't do anything, the truss rod I mean. Action's fine, bearable. Not too high, not too low.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#4
A lot of guitars are angled like that
Quote by Demonikk
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Quote by Julz127
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#5
Bolt on? I would think. I've only got one bolt on guitar and I think they have to put the neck on at an angle like that for some reason.
CALL ME JOHN

MARSHALL JCM 2000 Amp head/Cab
White Synyster Custom 1/100
Rest of my rig on my profile!


Don't acknowledge right, just dwell on...


...Wrong.



This spot in Hell...


...Is where I belong
#6
I think you mean the neck angle. If so, it's perfectly normal. Normally. Depending on the guitar's bridge, neck angle can be required. Pretty much any TOM style (like an LP) for example.
Last edited by Razbo at Jun 23, 2010,
#7
Ah. Well alright then. I've been looking at it for a long time, but I hadn't thought much of it until I tried everything to fix the buzz on my high E to no avail. Only the damn high E makes that ungodly sound.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#9
Quote by valennic
Ah. Well alright then. I've been looking at it for a long time, but I hadn't thought much of it until I tried everything to fix the buzz on my high E to no avail. Only the damn high E makes that ungodly sound.


If it's only one string them it's probably a fret issue, not a neck issue.
CALL ME JOHN

MARSHALL JCM 2000 Amp head/Cab
White Synyster Custom 1/100
Rest of my rig on my profile!


Don't acknowledge right, just dwell on...


...Wrong.



This spot in Hell...


...Is where I belong
#10
Alright thanks guys Lifted that little worry.

And about that high E problem...its this ungodly buzzing sound, makes it literally unbearable to play on that string clean or distorted, what the hell could cause that? The nut maybe? Because no other string buzzes

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#11
Quote by valennic
Ah. Well alright then. I've been looking at it for a long time, but I hadn't thought much of it until I tried everything to fix the buzz on my high E to no avail. Only the damn high E makes that ungodly sound.


I checked out some pics, and that looks pretty normal. You might be able to tweak the high E end of the bridge up just a titch and stop the buzz. There should be some adjustment there (either screw, thumbwheel or some such). Just give it a little 1/4ish turn. Recommend slackening the strings first.

Edit: Which fret(s) is it buzzing on? Nut side of 12th or bridge side?
Last edited by Razbo at Jun 23, 2010,
#12
Quote by Razbo
I checked out some pics, and that looks pretty normal. You might be able to tweak the high E end of the bridge up just a titch and stop the buzz. There should be some adjustment there (either screw, thumbwheel or some such). Just give it a little 1/4ish turn. Recommend slackening the strings first.


Hm, alright, Ill give that a whirl.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#13
Quote by valennic
Alright thanks guys Lifted that little worry.

And about that high E problem...its this ungodly buzzing sound, makes it literally unbearable to play on that string clean or distorted, what the hell could cause that? The nut maybe? Because no other string buzzes

I could be the groove for the string in the nut yes, that could have maybe worn down making the string slightly too low, there are a few possibilities though, such as frets popping out from the fretboard ever so slightly (not very likely I wouldn't have thought though.)
Have you changed the string yet?
#14
Quote by whoomit
I could be the groove for the string in the nut yes, that could have maybe worn down making the string slightly too low, there are a few possibilities though, such as frets popping out from the fretboard ever so slightly (not very likely I wouldn't have thought though.)
Have you changed the string yet?


I recently moved to Pennsylvania, and there is no music shop within a reasonable distance to me. The closest shop I know of is in Harrisburg. And thats a good distance from me. So I haven't had the time or the money to go up there and get strings, or I would. I looked at my neck just now though, and it looks slightly bowed inward. I know adjusting truss rods is risky, but I may very well have to do that..

EDIT: Razbo, its the whole string

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

Last edited by valennic at Jun 23, 2010,
#15
Well I'd suggest getting new strings before trying anything drastic like that, because sometimes that's all it takes.
As for truss rod adjustment I've never had to do it, but anyway I wish you the best of luck with it all
#16
Is it just me or it looks like:



If you measure the action at those two points and the one closer to the headstock is actually larger than the other one, it's not good. In that case, you have some serious neck bow.

How big is the gap between the bottom of the low E string and the top of the 8th fret, if you press it down at the 1st fret and the 18th fret at the same time? It should be just a tiny little gap.
#17
Quote by Tinderwet
Is it just me or it looks like:



If you measure the action at those two points and the one closer to the headstock is actually larger than the other one, it's not good. In that case, you have some serious neck bow.

How big is the gap between the bottom of the low E string and the top of the 8th fret, if you press it down at the 1st fret and the 18th fret at the same time? It should be just a tiny little gap.


The gap at the mentioned place isn't too large. It is just a tiny gap. But the neck doesn't look straight. Where else do I measure?

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#18
Quote by valennic
The gap at the mentioned place isn't too large. It is just a tiny gap. But the neck doesn't look straight. Where else do I measure?


And this, my friends, is why I like to measure and use specs.

valennic, that "tiny gap" should be about 1/100th of an inch (0.010)or so. Make sure you are fretting 1st and last and measure at the 9th. (Or 1st and 18th and measure at the 7th. People have their own preferences.) Do you have some feeler gauges, like for checking spark plugs? If not, if you can stick a guitar pick under there, then it's basically too much (if you aren't SRV). You should just be able to make the string move.

Anyway, too much relief is not going to give you buzz on every single fret. Could be the nut slot is worn as someone mentioned.
Last edited by Razbo at Jun 23, 2010,
#19
Quote by Razbo
And this, my friends, is why I like to measure and use specs.

valennic, that "tiny gap" should be about 1/100th of an inch (0.010)or so. Make sure you are fretting 1st and last and measure at the 9th. (Or 1st and 18th and measure at the 7th. People have their own preferences.) Do you have some feeler gauges, like for checking spark plugs? If not, if you can stick a guitar pick under there, then it's basically too much (if you aren't SRV). You should just be able to make the string move.

Anyway, too much relief is not going to give you buzz on every single fret. Could be the nut slot is worn as someone mentioned.


I actually do have a set of spark plug gappers lying around I'll go grab em.

And in the event its more than 0.010 inches? Adjust the truss rod accordingly? And I'm no SRV I play more in the vein of John Petrucci, Marco Sfogli and the like. I like the fluid runs, not the slow chordy WHAP that SRV favored. If I'm making sense

Well, a new nut isn't too much if that ends up being it.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#20
Quote by valennic
And in the event its more than 0.010 inches? Adjust the truss rod accordingly?


.010 - .012 is a pretty generic measurement. Players might tweak that (or have it tweaked) to something that they like better, but it's a good starting point.

So, yes, adjusting the TR will be the method to correct that. Fret at the 1st & Last fret (which is my way, not the only way), and measure at the 7 - 9th fret with the feelers under the bass E string. I will capo the first fret (literally right on the fret) to make it easier. I capo right on the fret so it doesn't squeeze the strings much and create more bow than there actually is. Turning the TR clockwise will reduce the gap.

Be in tune when measuring, but slacken the strings loose before adjusting.

I don't usually go more than a 1/4 turn, then let it sit for a day before making another adjustment. Some people will just go right at this, but I believe the wood can settle more over time, so I am patient about this bit of set up. Feel free to tune up and rock out in the meantime, though!

This still won't address the main issue, which is you have only one string buzzing. If raising the bridge on that side didn't fix it (without throwing the near sting action up too high), then you could be looking at a nut. Also inspect the bridge slot as it is possible (though far less likely) that this has become worn as well.

Try new strings first, though. Although I'd still get on the TR adjustment. That's my first step in any set up, so you might as well get it done.

Good luck!
Last edited by Razbo at Jun 23, 2010,
#21
Quote by Razbo
.010 - .012 is a pretty generic measurement. Players might tweak that (or have it tweaked) to something that they like better, but it's a good starting point.

So, yes, adjusting the TR will be the method to correct that. Fret at the 1st & Last fret (which is my way, not the only way), and measure at the 7 - 9th fret with the feelers. Turning the TR clockwise will reduce this amount.

Slacken the strings first.
I don't usually go more than a 1/4 turn, then let it sit for a day before making another adjustment. Some people will just go right at this, but I believe the wood can settle more over time, so I am patient about this bit of set up. Feel free to play in the meantime, though!

This still doesn;t address the main issue, which is you have only one string buzzing. If raising the bridge on that side didn't fix it (without throwing the near sting action up too high), then you could be looking at a nut. Also inspect the bridge slot as it is possible (though far less likely) that this has become worn as well.

Try new strings first, though. Although I'd still get on the TR adjustment. That's my first step in any set up, so you might as well get it done.

Good luck!


Replacing a bridge would be murder >_<

Thanks a heap!

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#22
Quote by valennic
The gap at the mentioned place isn't too large. It is just a tiny gap. But the neck doesn't look straight. Where else do I measure?


Sorry for the late reply. If you can just slide your 1st string under it, it's kinda ok, but I personally like an almost completely straight neck, with just a hair sized gap.
Last edited by Tinderwet at Jun 24, 2010,
#23
Quote by Tinderwet
Sorry for the late reply. If you can just slide your 1st string under it, it's kinda ok, but I personally like an almost completely straight neck, with just a hair sized gap.


You know what?!? I have NEVER thought of using the treble E as a feeler! Learn something new every day!!