just a couple quick Q's bout strats since im now in possesion of my first one:

1. are you for or against string trees, and what difference does it make in tone?

2. this might sound pretty stupid, haha, but how do most people do relic jobs? like what kind of materials do they use to take off the paint.

3. would a floyd rose locking nut do anything without it's corresponding bridge?
1. Trees aren't a factor in tone; they help keep the string angle sharp, because the string length between the tuners on the B and high E string is a lot longer than that of the other strings, so a tree helps keep it even. It's more of an issue in angled headstocks.

2. Google will get you a lot of results.

3. Yeah, it's made to counter the wonky tuning of the FR bridge. However, for aesthetic reasons I suggest locking tuners instead of a locking nut.
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String trees are pretty much essential if you don't have staggered tuners because you need to have a sharp enough break angle as the strings pass through the nut. They don't provide a tonal advantage so much as the strings would just kinda rattle in the nut without them and lack sustain, at least as far as the first two go. They do, however, create a point of friction which causes tuning instability with bends and vibrato tailpieces. In answering your third question as well, you would ideally upgrade to staggered, locking tuners, remove the string trees, and change to a graphite nut for improved tuning stability. Changing to a locking nut requires wood work, weakens the neck where the screws go through, makes it a pain in the ass to change tuning - especially without fine-tuners on the bridge- and would make your strat pretty fugly.
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Last edited by Mike-T93 at Jul 8, 2010,