#1
Hi everyone, I'm having a problem putting my guitar in Drop C, i own a Ibanez RG350DX WH with a Floyd Rose bridge and with those locking nuts up in the neck and in the bridge.
I've had my guitar in drop D since i bought it (like 4 months), and now my band wants to start playing musics in drop C. So here is the deal, I take off the locking nuts in the neck and i start putting the strings to drop C, but when im repeating the process (because some strings get out of tune when i tune others) the floating trem/bridge stars getting down, making my strings touch the fret, then i have to press the whammy till the bridge gets parallel with the body and i tune it to Drop D again. I think this has something to do with tension or something, can you guys help me out? thank you alot
#2
you need to rebalance spring tension in the bridge since you have a tremolo. take off the back plate and tighten the springs or add 1 spring. tightening is easier though.
#3
Nah you wanna take springs out of the back so they are not pulling it as hard
Jackson DK2M
ESP LTD M-200FM w/Tone Zone + PAF Pro
Ibanez RG7321
Digitech Whammy IV
Digitech GSP1101
Furman M-10 LxE
Peavey 6505
ISP Decimator
#5
Yeah removing a spring should help balance the tremolo out again, i had the same issue when tuning my RR, they sent it to me in E standard -.-
Gear:

Charvel So-Cal Style 1 HH
Jackson Pro Series RR24M
Dean Dave Mustaine Signature VMNT

JCM 2000 TSL 100
#6
First step is to block your tremolo; don't worry, not permanently, just makes adjusting it much easier:
Gently wedge a piece of wood beneath the back end of the tremolo system, between it and the guitar, so you can no longer pull the tremolo arm up.

Next, turn your guitar over, you'll see a large screwed on plate around the centre of the body - remove this. You'll be looking at some springs which will be hooked onto a spring claw (towards the neck-side of the hole), screw the spring claw further into the body. Don't worry about how far in, just screw it in a lot!
The piece of wood under your bridge should be forcing it to remain flat throughout the whole procedure, if it's not: re-wedge the wood until it keeps the bridge flat.

Raise your guitar to a vertical position and tune your guitar to drop C. If at any point the bridge begins to shift upward or the wedge of wood falls out, you didn't tighten the spring claw enough, so go back and do the first two steps again. Only move on to the next step when you've tuned your guitar to the desired tuning without the bridge raising and without the wedge of wood falling out.

Now that you're in drop C, it's time to go back and loosen the screws in the spring claw (the opposite of what you did before). Do this whilst keeping the guitar in a vertical position and keep loosening until you see the wedge of wood fall out. Sometimes the wedge gets stuck, so you may want to just give it a little tap at regular intervals to see if it's loose.

At this point, the bridge should be lying flat (or almost flat) and your guitar should be in drop C (or again, very close to drop C, e.g. all strings slightly flat).
If the bridge is lying flat and your guitar's in tune, screw the back plate back on, lock your nut, ect. You're done!
If the bridge is slightly raised, tighten the spring claw a little until it's flat and your guitar is in tune. Now you're done.
Speed is a by-product of shut the fuck up.
Last edited by Aleksi at Jul 24, 2010,
#7
this was explained pretty fast!, then i did all you said to me, i put wood, i took the back plate off screwed in the spring claw, tuned it to drop C, then i lossen the spring claw and i was continuing tapping the wood till it came off, i check the tuning and it was close to D again... what happened?
Last edited by Luiz7 at Jul 24, 2010,
#8
Did the bridge remain level the entire time you were tuning and is the bridge level now?

The reason you put the wood in and tighten the screws on the spring claw is to force the bridge to remain level whilst you tune it. Having tuned it whilst the bridge is level, it's a matter of getting the bridge to stay level in the floating position which is achieved by loosening the screws on the spring claw until the wood drops out. Sometimes you end up with the bridge slightly raised after the wood has dropped out, this happens because you've loosened the spring claw too much, in this case you tighten the spring claw until your bridge is level again and your guitar is in tune.
As long as the bridge is level after tuning the guitar (with the bridge blocked) and the bridge is also level after the wood has been removed, you'll be in tune.
Speed is a by-product of shut the fuck up.
Last edited by Aleksi at Jul 24, 2010,
#9
The bridge got slightly raised after i finished it, i remembered and changed a string ( the A string in drop D) about 30 minutes ago, tuned this all to drop D and saw the bridge was raised, I tighted up a the spring claw and now it its parallel, so im going to put the wood and maintain it parallel, tighten the screws even more, tune it to C, then loosen till it gets off ( does it work if after I tune it i press the whammy bar and take the wood off and then make it parallel, i think not but just asking )
By the way, theres no words to thank you for helping me
#10
You can dive the whammy bar, remove the wood and then loosen the spring claw until the bridge returns to a parallel position. However, if the spring claw is in too tight when you do that, then you might end up snapping your strings or pulling them out of tune because the bridge will pull back into the body (the same way as it would if you pulled the tremolo bar all the way up), it depends on how much your strings can take and how tight the claw is screwed in when you remove the wood.
Personally, I loosen until the wood falls out because it definitely won't break/detune your strings and I just find it easier that way, but it's up to you.
If you have any other questions, let me know
Speed is a by-product of shut the fuck up.