#1
This is my first time building a speaker cab, so please be patient with me, as I will probably have quite a few questions, and will probably progress quite slowly.

Anyway, I recently bought a Bugera V5, and would like to build a nice little cab to use with it when I need more volume. My plan was to build a nice sounding, open backed, 2x12" cab. I am going to be finishing it with either creme or black tolex, or a combination, as well as possibly gold piping, all in an effort to make it match the amp. Now, it is time for twenty questions:

The amp says minimum 4ohm output. I'm assuming that means I can use any speakers that have any ohm above four, so I need speaker recommendations. I'm aiming for fairly cheap here, because I am a starving college student.

Second, does anyone have any diagrams or dimensions I can have? I couldn't really find anything, so I drew up my own. I was going to make it 14" tall by 28" wide, by 9" deep. Basically, I am trying to keep it as small as possible to keep the weight down. Also, how large should the opening in the back be?

Third, what wood should I use? I see a bunch of people saying use MDF, but that seems like it wouldn't be durable enough. Would plywood work good? How thick? And what for the baffle?

I believe that is all the questions I have for now. Again, thanks for the patience (hopefully).


Edit: Here is a quick mock up (Sorry I am horrible with photoshop)
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
Last edited by Sh3pherd at Jul 24, 2010,
#2
Quote by Sh3pherd
The amp says minimum 4ohm output. I'm assuming that means I can use any speakers that have any ohm above four

Not quite. If you are using a single speaker it should be 4ohm. Two 4ohm speakers wired in series gives a total impedance of 8ohm. Two speakers wired in parallel gives a total impedance of 2ohm.

In order to get a total impedance of 4ohm using two speakers, you need two 8ohm speakers wired in parallel.
#3
Okay, well that clears up one question. I have also changed my measurements to 31" wide by 21" high by 15" deep, and have decided on using 3/4" 13-Ply Pine or a harder wood it a can find it. I'll probably be going out later today to buy the wood.

Also speaker wise, I was leaning towards two Jensen Mod 12-35s at 8 ohms. Opinions?
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
Last edited by Sh3pherd at Jul 25, 2010,
#4
That cab is massively oversized. I built myself an oversized 212 and had 21" wide, 12" deep by can't remember height.

Just saying...its going to be big, and I don't think that will be a good thing.
#5
You need two 8ohm speakers wired in parallel to give the optimum 4 ohms. Most sp;eakers are 8's so this should be easy and other ohmages are usually a poor compromise anyway.

Speakers for open backs are different from other drive units in several ways. They have stiffer suspensions, lighter cones and smaller magnets to match this usage. Try to look at the manufacturers recommendations for this. If you can get the spec sheeets then a Qts of 0.7 or higher is a good indicator of a speaker that will work well. You can always email any questions to the manufacturers about suitability for a particular use.

Ignore the comments about size, the bigger the panels the deeper the bass will go but the joy of an open back is that it doesn't load the speaker (hence the stiff suspension) and hence the dimensions aren't critical. Make sure the opening is bigger than the speaker and you will be fine.

I've written a couple of articles for UG you might like to read

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/columns/gear_maintenance/cabinets_for_guitars.html
http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/columns/gear_maintenance/choosing_speakers_to_drive_your_cabs.html (a bit techie)
#6
Quote by kurtlives91
That cab is massively oversized. I built myself an oversized 212 and had 21" wide, 12" deep by can't remember height.

Just saying...its going to be big, and I don't think that will be a good thing.


21" wide?? That's actually VERY small. Most 2x12 cabs are 30"-31"

http://www.mesaboogie.com/Product_Info/Guitar%20Cabinets/RECTOcabs/Recto2x12H-LG.htm

http://www.sfdamp.com/cabinets_fatbottom.html

Also how did you fit 2 12" speakers in a 21" wide space??

12+12 = 24. Maybe I missed something lol?
Guitars:
Ibanez UV777P
Ibanez RGD2127FX
Ibanez RG3120TW
Ibanez RGD7321
Ibanez RG6003FM
Ibanez SA160
Jackson Slatxmg3-7
Amps:
Baron Custom Amps K88
Rivera Knucklehead TRE
Fryette Sig: X
Randall RM4 /w Modded modules
Cabs:
Mesa 4x12
Bogner 4x12
Peavey 4x12(K85s)
Last edited by kylendm at Jul 25, 2010,
#7
Make it taller and do diagonal placement?
My Tele Project!

Cheapy Johnson Steel String Acoustic
Les Paul Ripoff w/ SD SH2 and SH4
Modded Crate V18 2x12 w/ Weber Speakers
Squier Deluxe 5-string Active J-Bass
Acoustic B100 15" Bass Combo Amp
Gray VS Jekyll & Hyde
Vox V847A Wah
#9
Quote by kylendm
21" wide?? That's actually VERY small. Most 2x12 cabs are 30"-31"

http://www.mesaboogie.com/Product_Info/Guitar%20Cabinets/RECTOcabs/Recto2x12H-LG.htm

http://www.sfdamp.com/cabinets_fatbottom.html

Also how did you fit 2 12" speakers in a 21" wide space??

12+12 = 24. Maybe I missed something lol?

My bad, forgot to mention mine is a vertical 212.
#10
Okay I am posting this from my iTouch at work, so I'm going to try and keep it short. First, thanks for the info. Its probably a good thing that its bigger and has better bass response, because I play a seven string. Second, I built the outside today, and will post pictures later. Its still kind of rough around the edges, but I am pretty confident I can clean it up. And yeah, it is fairly large for a 2x12.

Image Update:








So yeah, that's my progress so far. I don't know if you can tell through the pictures, but I attempted to use miter joints, and I'm pretty sure it worked well. Today I am planning on cleaning up the bits that hang a little off, and then rounding out the edges.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
Last edited by Sh3pherd at Jul 26, 2010,
#11
Sorry for the double post, but this thread sank to the bottom of the second page, and I have another question I need answered. Does it matter what the size is for the opening in the back of the cab? Also, should I seal all of the other edges where there are gaps with caulk or something else to make it air-tight? For instance, along the bottom front edge, there is maybe a 2mm gap, and I'm worried that it could affect the tone.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#13
I'm pretty sure the size of the opening doesn't matter if it's fairly substantial. We're talking an open-back cab designed with no T&S parameters in-mind, not a tuned, ported cab. As for the gaps, they won't really affect the tone, but you could get whistling through them. Also, remember that any sound lost randomly like that is wasted. You direct the front of the cab obviously and can control the dispersion from the back if you please, but you don't know how to utilize and benefit from sound leaking from gaps in the edges.

Also, is that the cage in the background the one you keep your daughter in? It looks a lot larger than mine. You might want to consider further limiting her mobility to opening and closing her jaw in order to eat and drink from a water bottle much like a rabbit.
My Tele Project!

Cheapy Johnson Steel String Acoustic
Les Paul Ripoff w/ SD SH2 and SH4
Modded Crate V18 2x12 w/ Weber Speakers
Squier Deluxe 5-string Active J-Bass
Acoustic B100 15" Bass Combo Amp
Gray VS Jekyll & Hyde
Vox V847A Wah
#14
I was considering using scrap wood to cover the edges on the inside, which I assume makes them battens. However, I feel like simply using caulk would be 1000x times easier and last forever.

Also, more pics: (Yay)

This is the front. I still need to add the baffle:


And this is the back:



Ughhh, I hate using routers, so the edges look kind of sketchy. I don't think it'll be noticeable when the whole thing is wrapped in tolex. Next, I am either going to build the baffle, or get tolex.

I do have a question about making the baffle though. Do I need to wait to get the speakers in to route the holes for them? Or does every 12" speaker require a 12" diameter hole? I just don't want to make too large of a hole if the speakers won't fit in them.

Quote by Mike-T93

Also, is that the cage in the background the one you keep your daughter in? It looks a lot larger than mine. You might want to consider further limiting her mobility to opening and closing her jaw in order to eat and drink from a water bottle much like a rabbit.


Hahahaha nice one. Unfortunately, that is not my daughter's cage (that one is MUCH smaller). That cage is normally in the back of my pickup truck so I can take my two older dogs on road trips. However, I just got a new puppy, and until he is house broken, that is his temporary home.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
Last edited by Sh3pherd at Jul 26, 2010,
#15
I don't think you've read my articles but the point of an open cab is to make the sound from the back of the cab travel as far as possible before it mixes with the sound from the front where the two pressure waves cancel. This means that you need to have as much wood on the back of the cab as possible whilst allowing the free passage of air so you don't create any pressure inside the cab. If the opening is bigger than the total surface area of the speakers then this is big enough as a rule of thumb.

Caulk your gaps. Using battens is one of the best ways of sealing edges as it also reduces resonances a nd strengthens the cab.
#17
Update time. I made the baffle, then wrapped most of the box in tolex. I just need to buy the creme colored tolex for the front and back pieces, then all of that is done.





As you can see, I still need to trim some of the excess material off of the front of the amp, so that the grille cloth fits on right. Other than that, all I need to buy is corners and all of the wiring stuff. I ordered the speakers a couple days ago. I went with Celestion Rocket 50's.

Does anyone know where I can buy grille cloth and flat black corners? Also, I need help with wiring. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#20
Yeah, 1/2 inch is common. You can find a few corners for 1/4 inch, but fewer options. I have purchased some from tubesandmore.com in the past.
#21
this is horsesh*t. everybody tellin me building cabs is too hard. dude, that jobs looks pretty good to me, and i could do the same thing in maybe 2 days. 1 to build it, 1 to make it look good with tolex, and extra jazz (handles, fancy metal corners, rubber feet).

that settles it. im building a cab. i mean its no crazy awesome cab, but im sure that sounds just fine with quality speakers.
#22
Quote by ikey_
this is horsesh*t. everybody tellin me building cabs is too hard. dude, that jobs looks pretty good to me, and i could do the same thing in maybe 2 days. 1 to build it, 1 to make it look good with tolex, and extra jazz (handles, fancy metal corners, rubber feet).

that settles it. im building a cab. i mean its no crazy awesome cab, but im sure that sounds just fine with quality speakers.


Anyone who told you a cab is difficult to build is a liar. A 2x12 is a box with a baffle and some rudimentary wiring. Nothing hard about it. A 4x12 is a little more involved, but still nothing crazy.

In fact, I recommend a build any time someone asks me to suggest a 2x12 cab. You'll most definitely save money--a bunch of Pine, some used Eminence speakers, and a jack. Fully functional 2x12 for cheap, a little extra to pretty it up. Find a good deal on speakers and you could be looking at a sub-$150 cab comparable to an Avatar.
Last edited by Seref at Jul 31, 2010,
#23
Cabs are not easy. If you do proper joints on the corners and don't use screws to hold the structure together it can be very time consuming. If don't right though DIY cabs can be stronger and better than production cabs.
#24
Well here is my two cents on it, because I am basically done now. I believe, in total, this build will end up costing me about $160, which is like half of a low-end 2x12. Ans that is with brand new Celestion speakers, albeit low-end ones. Not only that, but I'm sure if I put it on Craigslist for $150, I would easily make my money back. So I doubt I am technically losing any money on this.

Build wise, it's so far been easy, but there is definitely a learning curve. My routing job is sub par, my edges are slightly un-even, and my job wrapping it in the tolex is pretty sketchy. I had to settle for stapling it on the bottom because I didn't really know how to do it all in one piece. If I had to do it again, I would build a frame out of 2x4, then glue the plywood to the outside of that. And I would make some form of template for the baffle, instead of free-handing it. I haven't done the wiring yet, but I am not worried about that. It seems simple enough.

So, if you want my opinion, I would say this. Build something tiny and cheap first, like a 1x8. Then go ahead and try an actual cab like a 2x12 or a 4x12. Your final product will come out infinitely better.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#25
i wouldnt glue it, imo it would need more tha that, and metal corners to finish it off.

if we are talking vibration and sealing, the more i think about it the less peices the less that needs sealing and the lease to vibrate.

lastly, a frame of 2x4, creates a very unacoustic inside.

imo, i would build a box just as you did, very sturdy and correct angles. glue and screw it...not only screws, but washers on the screwhead for maximum surface area of pressure, and epoxy the screws in the holes. i would gorrila glue all wood surfaces that were touching.

THEN, than small peices like 1x1s and brace in the sides, and sand them down a bit. after that i s done i would seal the cracks with cauk.

THEN, do the metal corners for extra stability. and thick soft rubber bumpers (about 1 inch thick atleast) as feet to sto vibration between cabinet and floor.

dovetail, miter, i dont care what joint. even regular joints. tell me a box like that isnt sturdy and i will laugh at you.
#26
That's almost exactly what I have done, and I can easily stand on top of it and throw my weight around. And I weigh about 180 pounds, so it's not like I am a small guy.

Now, quick wiring question. I know I need 2 quarter inch jacks, one for in and one for out. What gauge wire should I get? Does it really matter? Because I am planning on running to radio shack in a little bit and wiring as much of this as I can. According to UPS, my speakers left Arizona 4 days ago, so they should be here any day.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#27
Not quite sure if you need this link anymore, but I made my first a 4x12 a little while back and used this website. Very Helpfull.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/2x12wiring.html

Also, if for some reason you are not happy with your speakers, take a look a Warehouse speakers. Thats what I used in mine, and love them.
***Guitars***
Epiphone Les Paul Custom AP (w/ 2 Seymour Duncans)
Jackson Dx10D Dinky (w/ DiMarzio PAF Bridge)
Epihpone Hummingbird

***Amps***
Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 100 (Voodoo Modified)
Custom 4x12 Halfstack (w/ Veteran 30's)
#28
More pics:





So basically to summarize, I have attached the tolex to the front and back, as well as mounted the input jack and done as much wiring as I can with no speakers (which should HOPEFULLY arrive soon). Now one more question. As you can see in the picture with the amp in it, the tolex on the front of the cab doesn't really match that of the amp. It needs to be more yellowed. I tried applying a light coat of wood stain, but that made it too dark. What can I do?
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#29
There doesn't seem to be any interest in this project, but if there is someone watching this, the speakers came today. I have them mounted and wired up, and the cab sounds great. I'm really not feeling putting up sound clips though.

All I need to do now is do something with the white tolex to yellow it, and find a grill cloth to match that on a Bugera V5. ex:



If anyone has any ideas, let me know. Otherwise, this will probably be my last post in this thread.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#30
Quote by Sh3pherd
There doesn't seem to be any interest in this project

Otherwise, this will probably be my last post in this thread.


Jheeze dude, calm down, looks cool, not sure what to suggest about yellowing the tolex though.
"Guitar is tactile, It's about how you play it"
- Joe Bonamassa

#31
umm i really have no idea but you could look in to how people reliced their guitars like their bone nut.... cigarette smoke comes to mind cause the nicotine will yellow the tolex but i personally wouldnt like that around my stuff....
#33
Well considering it would take like 10 packs of cigs to yellow all of that, I'm going to pass. However, brown shoe polish does sound like a great idea.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#34
Looks like I might have to try doing this for myself! That said, I haven't done much woodworking. What tools would you need to do something like this properly?
Quote by dr_shred
FrustratedRocka you are a legend

Quote by littlephil

The man clearly knows his shit.

Quote by Banjocal


one of the best, educated and logical posts I've ever seen on UG in the Pit. Well done good sir.
#36
I used a drill, a router, a table saw, and a palm sander. Obviously, the sander is optional. You could probably get around the router if you had a scroll saw or something similar.
Gear:
Schecter Revenger 7-String
Bugera V5
MXR 10-Band EQ
EHX Metal Muff
Boss NS-2
Digitech Bad Monkey
Crybaby Wah
Digitech Hardwire Stereo Chorus
#37
You need a router if you want dovetail or finger joints, which are the prettiest and strongest. It also makes rounding the corners a heck of a lot easier than with a file. If you use glue, you will also need clamps.