#2
DS-1 Distortion.

Btw, this is a really cool site, I'll have to try to make my own Pedal Board =P
ledzeppelin7510 wrote:

come on guys, this could be great for Portnoy; remember when Neil Peart left Rush to join My Chemical Romance? Oh...wait...
#4
I'm going to give you fair warning: pedal building is much more involved than it might seem, even if you start with a template pcb like this. Shoddy soldering is a no-no, and building/finding a suitable casing will be a challenge. If you feel confident in your abilities to solder and scrounge, then go ahead. It will be a fun experience. Otherwise, you may be very frustrated.

On topic:

The DS-1 doesn't quite do thrash, but it seems like you can easily build a Keeley DS-1, which would be much more suitable. It has more gain and is less shrill, achieved almost entirely through parts swaps. I will, however second the RAT, which sat on many, many '80s metal pedalboards. I've also heard good things about the MXR Distortion+, but I can't give you any more than word-of-mouth on it, sorry.

Good luck.
#5
Thanks everyone.

I'm looking at smallbear and I cant seem to find the .001uf capacitor, can anyone put the link for those and the other suitable caps? Or is there anything I could substitute it with?
Obviously Fassa.
#8
Quote by Rock In Rio
Thanks everyone.

I'm looking at smallbear and I cant seem to find the .001uf capacitor, can anyone put the link for those and the other suitable caps? Or is there anything I could substitute it with?


Try WDMusic.
#10
look for 1000pF instead of .001uF

smallbear lists their microfarad caps as mF instead of uF btw.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


UG's Best DIY PedalBoard
#11
Ah ok, thank you very much that will make finding them much easier and much cheaper EC
Obviously Fassa.
#12
I ran into another problem trying to find caps.
I still need a 2.2mf, 4.7mf, and 100mf.
Obviously Fassa.
#13
2.2uF, 4.7uF, 100uF are usually electrolytic caps, not polypropylene/polyester caps. you can get anything rated more than 16v.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


UG's Best DIY PedalBoard
#15
It will change the sound a little, the higher the value, the bassier the tone, and the lower the value, the more trebly. To what extent matters on where the cap is, what it is doing, and how much it differs.

In this case, it is okay to deviate a little, but those are very common values, so they shouldn't be wicked hard to find.


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RBY CYOA
#16
2.2uF is probably the input cap. using a 1uF cap instead will give you less bass, resulting in bass cut.

4.7uF could be the emitter bypass cap? between the wiper of the fuzz knob and ground. i think most designs use 22uF or so, but 4.7uF will give less bass than using 22uF.

100uF is most likely the power supply. it's great to have this cap, because modern DC power supplies are extremely noisy. this cap reduces that hiss.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


UG's Best DIY PedalBoard