#1
Hey, I need someone to calm my mind.

So what actually happened.
I was jamming with a girlfriend, who has a 100w Roland Bass Combo, me having a 100w Valveking - both amps were plugged in the same multi-outlet.

After an hour or so - my amp was crankling. Then I looked into the mirror, so that I was able to see the tubes. One of them was much brighter as it used to be - and then ... Boom - a lightning. Just in that moment, the amp "switched of by himself".
Now I am not able anymore, to switch it on.

Hope you know what I mean - I've had to use the dictionary at some points. ;D

Is it just the tube/s or could it be more?
I reaaaaally hope, that it's just a problem with these tubes.
If so ... which are good ones, to buy for the Valveking? ;D
#2
seems like you broke it. erm, change the valves and then if that still don't work then it's even more broke than originally thought.
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#3
It's probably just a tube, though it might be a serious bias issue.
I don't know how to check for those, though.

Anyway, good tubes for a Valveking...
I consider JJ Electronics' 6L6es to be great power tubes.
For preamp tubes, TungSol's 12AX7s suit my tastes best.

Also, there is a Valveking thread somewhere. I'll link to that in a moment.

EDIT: Found it.
Valveking thread
Valveking wiki started by members of UG
Ceci n'est pas une signature.
Last edited by PsiGuy60 at Jul 31, 2010,
#4
probably the power tube that went pop and took the fuse located next to the power chord with it (atleast that`s what happend to mine 6 months ago - same symptoms), if your still using the stock tubes nows the time to do yourself a huge favour and upgrade the power tubes from the ruby or EH tubes and get some JJ 6l6s in there.
#5
^ thats my thought as well. tube died in a spectacular fashion, and the fuse went as well. easy way to check it is to check the fuse. if its blown, well replace the tubes and the fuse.
#6
@ibanezgod1973

Yes, you are THE ONE who was really able to calm my mind. ;D

Yup, I was still using the stock tubes. My girlfriend and I were talking about destiny - maybe it's destiny, that the tubes broke, so that I have to upgrade it now.

But uhm...

ruby or EH tubes
what does that mean?

I will get the amp to my local music-store, maybe they could easily say, what's wrong with it.
Now I'm not that worried anymore. Thought that maybe the whole electric circle is broken - but ibanezgod is giving me some hope.
#8
Quote by forsaknazrael
Ruby and Electro-Harmonix tubes are brands of tubes.

Your local shop won't have much for a selection of tubes, if any.
Also, unless they have a qualified amp technician, they're not much help in that department, either.


Ah okay, thanks... I've just read that in the "VK-Wiki" ...^^
Yes, they don't have any tubes i think and a qualified amp technican they dont have either.

But there are some guys who are into the stuff - i think someone can help me a little bit.
And if not ... isn't bad at all, but i will give it a try.
#9
amps don't explode unless you put a bomb in them.

it sounds like the "brighter than normal" was the tube redplating before it died.

you may have the same issue with new tubes if the bias drifted a bit. you may not, it could have just been that tubes day.

if you put a matched quad in there and immediately have the same issue, turn the amp off and take it to get it serviced. if you don't have the problem the first time you play it, then it was probably just that old tubes day. good luck.

edit: and the fuse obviously.
I wondered why the frisbee was getting bigger, then it hit me.
Last edited by gregs1020 at Jul 31, 2010,
#10
the fuse is easy to check and replace you just require a straight edge screwdriver turn the black cap 1/4 of a turn and the fuse will come out in it`s housing, don`t replace the the housing without a fuse in it `cos there is a small spring in there that helps extraction and it needs a fuse in there to apply pressure against the housing.

for the power tubes you need to replace them as a pair or a quad for best results and it`s best to have those that have been computer matched.

remove the cage that houses the 4 power tubes use a phillips head screw driver to remove the 4 screws and the cage will come away from the chassis.

pull out the tubes, the one that`s blown may look charred/soot covered.

putting the tubes in couldn`t be easier, they only go in one way (there `s a slot in the housing and a piece on the tube that fits into the slot to ensure correct orientation)

get all four tubes in and reassemble the cage. your ready to play.

there`s no biasing required as the valveking is a self-biasing amp and will only accept 6l6 tubes without some serious modifcations
Last edited by ibanezgod1973 at Jul 31, 2010,
#11
Okay, thanks for the manual. ;-) I will try this.

But before I do this, I have to check, if it's really just the tubes/fuse.

IF the circuit is broken/burned, then I would be able to see it, right?

Which of these the "right" JJ's ?

ebay-Link - these tubes are taken from an matched octet.

ebay-Link2 - seems to be a "normal" quad

or Tube-Town

uhm, and the fuse? Will I have to buy a new one? Or just "switch it on"?
I'm an electric noob, totally! So sorry, if it's a dumb question. ;D I just know the fuses at our houses fuse box. ^^

Thanks in advance
#12
either the 2nd or the 3rd link

you will need to buy a new fuse, they normally come in a pack of 10 and they cost me £1, you want the short length type that`s a fast blow, if you remove the fuse and take it somewhere like maplin or a hardware store they will be able to find the right one for you, it`s written on the amp under the fuse the rating for the fuse make a note of it and take it with you when you buy the fuse.

i get my tubes from here

http://www.hotroxuk.com/jj-electronics-tube-6l6-13564-0.html

and a UK electronics store for fuses

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=451

you might see damage to a circuit board but it`s not always the case, and you might void the warranty by opening up the chassis, not the case for fuses and tubes
Last edited by ibanezgod1973 at Aug 1, 2010,
#13
Today I checked if the fuse is blown. And yes, it is.
So tomorrow I will buy a new fuse. Hope I can find some.

I don't know if the tube is broken. Looks quite normal.
Is it possible, to turn the amp on, if I replaced the fuse, without putting new tubes in?
Or will it blow again?

Just another question...

At the VK-Wiki someone writes, that Retubing is dangerous? It doesn't become clear to me, if just the Retubing of the Preamp is dangerous or the Retubing of the power tubes is also dangerous?
#14
don`t power up the amp until you`ve got the tubes in

a good tube



a blown tube



the flash in this one is reflecting off the charred glass


sorry for the big pics
Last edited by ibanezgod1973 at Aug 1, 2010,
#15
Okay, I have no charred glass i guess.

http://img251.imageshack.us/i/dscf8912.jpg/ - Here are the fantastic four

http://img248.imageshack.us/i/dscf8914.jpg/ - the third tube looks different. As you can see on the picture, there ist some white "dust".

Is that the broken one? Or why does it look so different.
Or isn't there any broken tube?

And by the way, the first tube on the left side, was the one, who was shining bright.

Edit:
Oh, I took a look on your profile.
We have birthday on the same date. ;D But I'm an 88er...
Last edited by OriginalMG at Aug 1, 2010,
#16
If your tubes blew then your fuse blew. First step is buying several fuses(make sure they're the right kind), try turning on the amp with a new fuse. If that doesn't work then buy new tubes and then put another new fuse in it.

Usually fuses blow because the tubes are blown, but I suppose its possible its just the fuse if your power supply was the problem
#17
be sure to send me a nice birthday gift then lol

yes the one with the white dust is dead, that white dust is the remains of the innards of part of the tube, that went spectacularly
Last edited by ibanezgod1973 at Aug 1, 2010,
#18
white getter means theres air in the supposed vacuum tube. you must replace it.
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#19
I bought my JJ 6l6' on thursday, finally. I tested them instantly, for sure.
Wow, it sounds much better, than whith the Ruby's. Never thought it would make such a difference.
I also installed the small mods, that are described in the Wiki, like the Loop FX Mod and the Dummy Jack. Also never thought, that it would advance the sound.

So thanks at all the guys, who suggested these tubes.

But one last question. Is it normal, that there is a smell - like "burned dust" - at the beginning? I know that smell from a light bulp, which is covered with dust.
There is a smiliarity between tubes and bulps - both geht warm/hot. So that's a possibility, right?

Or can it be even the transformer or whatever...?
#20
I just looked at the schematic for the valveking and calling it self-adjusting bias is wrong. It is in fact a fixed biased amp of the non-adjustable variety. Looks like it would be pretty easy to mod so it is adjustable, which would be a good idea. Amps built like that tend to err on the cold side.
You could make it sound better if you modded the bias circuit but it should work fine just plug and play.
Yes it's normal for them to sometimes smell a little as foreign shit from the factory burns off the surface of the glass, they do get quite hot.
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#21
glad you got it sorted the burning smell will subside over the next week (the more you play it)

there is a bias mod available for the amp, its discussed/buried deep in the VK thread
Last edited by ibanezgod1973 at Aug 8, 2010,