#1
I play on a fender cd 100 at least i think thats what its called
anyways the strings are incredibly high which makes barre chords tiring
could i lower the strings somehow?
should i buy a new bridge or saddle or just sand it down?
any help is appreciated thanks
#3
you are going to have to adjust the truss rod the string height points to you having ''forward bow'' its a Fender thing i thing i had a Fender ESS-100 that had the same issue
#4
Quote by fenderfreak100
you are going to have to adjust the truss rod the string height points to you having ''forward bow'' its a Fender thing i thing i had a Fender ESS-100 that had the same issue


No. Just no. Doesn't matter if it's a Fender or Martin or Gibson. Acoustic guitars all need action adjustments performed the same way. The truss rod is there to counteract the pull of the strings on the neck. It's proper adjustment point will be to give a slight bit of relief under the strings to allow for freedom of vibration. String height is adjusted at the saddle and at the nut. Too many people think that the truss is THE only place to make any adjustments to an acoustic guitar, but it just isn't so. Many of these people are electric guitar players who have the luxury of having infinitely adjustable saddles where you can raise/lower each individual string as needed to tweak the action to a fine degree. But just because an acoustic doesn't have that type of bridge does not make it unadjustable. You just have to know how is all. And I posted how in my other post.
#5
And I will second that. Stay away from that truss rod.

Read the Fret.com article.
#6
Quote by LeftyDave
No. Just no. Doesn't matter if it's a Fender or Martin or Gibson. Acoustic guitars all need action adjustments performed the same way. The truss rod is there to counteract the pull of the strings on the neck. It's proper adjustment point will be to give a slight bit of relief under the strings to allow for freedom of vibration. String height is adjusted at the saddle and at the nut. Too many people think that the truss is THE only place to make any adjustments to an acoustic guitar, but it just isn't so. Many of these people are electric guitar players who have the luxury of having infinitely adjustable saddles where you can raise/lower each individual string as needed to tweak the action to a fine degree. But just because an acoustic doesn't have that type of bridge does not make it unadjustable. You just have to know how is all. And I posted how in my other post.

lets meet in the middle. he may HAVE to adjust the truss rod it depends if he has bow or not

my fender is s@#$$$ it was made in china
#7
adjusting the truss rod has nothing at all to do with the action. the truss rod adjusts neck relief.
#8
Quote by patticake
adjusting the truss rod has nothing at all to do with the action. the truss rod adjusts neck relief.



This is very true. The truss rod should not be feared as such, but should be respected, because; of the three adjustments you can make to an acoustic guitar;

Nut
Saddle
Truss Rod

The Truss rod is the only one that can render your guitar junk. Truss rods can break. if they do, then it is very invasive and hence costly to repair.

My guitar cost £780 / $1200. It was setup before being sent to the store where I bought it and, plays very nice. But now that it has settled in to my home environment, been played etc, I am getting some buzzing on the Low E. After checking the relief, I can see that it is too little and needs some more, so I will be adjusting my truss rod...but I will be doing it carefully
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#9
Quote by fenderfreak100
lets meet in the middle. he may HAVE to adjust the truss rod it depends if he has bow or not

my fender is s@#$$$ it was made in china


Fair enough. And at the same time, not. Bow is an acceptable issue with a guitar's neck, when it's within reason that is. Up bow that is, never back bow, which will render the guitar unplayable for the most part. Up bow is also what gives the neck relief. Bow shouldn't be confused with twist or warp, neither of which can be corrected by adjusting the truss rod. Truss corrections, and adjustments to the neck set, plus adjustments to the nut, should all be performed before raising/lowering the saddle. This will yield the best results when all's said and done.