Page 2 of 10
#41
Quote by WinterSteel
Oh wow, that top looks absolutely amazing! Blood red with a black burst would look absolutely killer on that!

Just...do the headstock the same way? Here's hoping you've got leftovers.

Also, interesting way of dealing with the neck. Means a bit of work with changing the drilling locations, but that's nothing hard. Love to see how this turns out.


Yeah iv'e got enough maple left to do the headstock the same way. I put pictures of some test stains up and get some opinions once they've dried, but the red is looking nice...

I'm also thinking of changing and entirely redoing the neck (but keeping the fretboard). i originally wanted a 5-ply and angled headstock and doing the joint properly from scratch. I guess i'll see when it comes to routing the body.
#42
Im pretty intrested to see the maple when its done drying. Do you lay on the stain thick or thin it out some?
#43
Quote by extra heavy
Im pretty intrested to see the maple when its done drying. Do you lay on the stain thick or thin it out some?


The staining process is pretty detailed, iv'e worked it out through loads of tests and filtering through advice and opinions off the net. The basic process is to first lay down a dark, almost black layer with a cloth so that it sinks in to the raised grain areas in the quilt. You pretty much smear the stain on thick, the more it soaks in the better the 3d effect is. Once this is dry it is sanded back so that the stain only remains in these raised grain areas. this gives you the contrast. you then follow with your main colour and you'll get a really deep 3d effect. after this is sealer and then clear coat.
#44
Sounds like a pretty detailed and tedious process must have some patiences for that lol.
#45
Quote by extra heavy
Sounds like a pretty detailed and tedious process must have some patiences for that lol.


True, it's worth it for one-offs though.. some major manufacturers do a multi-step staining process, like prs, but it's usually reserved for high end or custom guitars. Gives a damn nice finish...
#46
Quote by matt154
True, it's worth it for one-offs though.. some major manufacturers do a multi-step staining process, like prs, but it's usually reserved for high end or custom guitars. Gives a damn nice finish...

Lol I bet im sure its going to be a sexy finish. The last project i did was a bullseye spray job on a mockingbird and I rushed WAY TO MUCH. But ive gained some patience so eventually I think i could do one of these things.
#47
Quote by extra heavy
Lol I bet im sure its going to be a sexy finish. The last project i did was a bullseye spray job on a mockingbird and I rushed WAY TO MUCH. But ive gained some patience so eventually I think i could do one of these things.


Lol, paint jobs are good because you can always sand them back and start again. The more mistakes you do the more you learn. Youv'e just got to be careful not to make mistakes on expensive stuff.
#48
Quote by matt154
Lol, paint jobs are good because you can always sand them back and start again. The more mistakes you do the more you learn. Youv'e just got to be careful not to make mistakes on expensive stuff.

yeah thank god for all the knock off strats and squires in the world lol. Ive actually found that with a few simple upgrades a squire can play hella good. I'd still rather have an Ibanez any day though.
#49
Quote by matt154
Yeah iv'e got enough maple left to do the headstock the same way. I put pictures of some test stains up and get some opinions once they've dried, but the red is looking nice...

I'm also thinking of changing and entirely redoing the neck (but keeping the fretboard). i originally wanted a 5-ply and angled headstock and doing the joint properly from scratch. I guess i'll see when it comes to routing the body.



Sounds sweet! Definitely awaiting pics on this one.

Hmm, that's quite the involved process, but since it's your guitar, you can make whatever you want. If that involves removing a fretboard and replacing it on an entirely new neck, go for it! Tricky, but I'm sure it's manageable.
Amps
Randall RG50TC, Roland Cube 15x

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LTD MH-100QM, Washburn X12

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Ibanez Weeping Demon, Boss FV-500H, Ibanez TS7, Ibanez PH7, dbx 31-band EQ, ISP Decimator
#50
Quote by WinterSteel
Sounds sweet! Definitely awaiting pics on this one.

Hmm, that's quite the involved process, but since it's your guitar, you can make whatever you want. If that involves removing a fretboard and replacing it on an entirely new neck, go for it! Tricky, but I'm sure it's manageable.


How would you go about removing a fretboard?
#51
Well, assuming that's what you're looking for, basically it involves a lot of patience, an iron with a steam function, a small razor blade, small hammer and a bunch of t-shirts.

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm

Tricky, but could be worth it. It's also possible to buy a new neck, but that's up to you.
Amps
Randall RG50TC, Roland Cube 15x

Guitar
LTD MH-100QM, Washburn X12

Effects and Etc.
Ibanez Weeping Demon, Boss FV-500H, Ibanez TS7, Ibanez PH7, dbx 31-band EQ, ISP Decimator
#52
Quote by WinterSteel
Well, assuming that's what you're looking for, basically it involves a lot of patience, an iron with a steam function, a small razor blade, small hammer and a bunch of t-shirts.

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm

Tricky, but could be worth it. It's also possible to buy a new neck, but that's up to you.

oh nice man thanks.
#53
Quote by littlephil
Yummy!
Looks great so far! How thick is your top? I probably would have finished the trem routing on the top before carving too, but if you're using templates it shouldn't really matter.

The top is 7mm thick, which is too thin to carve. It's a nice top and iv'e never liked the look of figured woods on anything other than carved tops. So i'm in the process of slowly steam bending it over the top of the korina. I'll bung some pics of the bending process up soon once i get them uploaded.
#55
Quote by extra heavy
I saw you bought a zero resistance trem. Have you ever used one of these before?


Iv'e never owned one but iv'e played guitars with them before and since i'm not a heavy trem user, i thought something that stays in tune is worth while. It's harder to set up but i like a challenge.
#56
Quote by matt154
Iv'e never owned one but iv'e played guitars with them before and since i'm not a heavy trem user, i thought something that stays in tune is worth while. It's harder to set up but i like a challenge.

Yea I had a Ibanez s and it had the zero trem after I got it home and changed strings there was a random buzz that wouldn't go away fully even after a truss adjustment. So I ended up taking it back becasue it didnt play or sound as good as my sa.
#57
Quote by extra heavy
Yea I had a Ibanez s and it had the zero trem after I got it home and changed strings there was a random buzz that wouldn't go away fully even after a truss adjustment. So I ended up taking it back becasue it didnt play or sound as good as my sa.


I experienced similar with my S, after some experimenting... turns out it's caused by not cutting enough of the string off, If you cut all the way back to just string and leave nothing of the winding that secures the ball it doesn't happen. *shrugs*
I am me. Live with it.
#58
Quote by DeAd-RiP
I experienced similar with my S, after some experimenting... turns out it's caused by not cutting enough of the string off, If you cut all the way back to just string and leave nothing of the winding that secures the ball it doesn't happen. *shrugs*

So if I would of cut more of the string off on the ball end that wouldn't of happened?
#59
Quote by extra heavy
Yea I had a Ibanez s and it had the zero trem after I got it home and changed strings there was a random buzz that wouldn't go away fully even after a truss adjustment. So I ended up taking it back becasue it didnt play or sound as good as my sa.


Well, i wanted a hardtail originally, but switched to the ZR after people were saying favourable things about it staying in tune. Iv'e had problems with trems drifting in and out of tune before and thought it was a good option. It'd be nice to have a hardtail though, less work..
#60
Wouldn't stringing it with the ball end at the headstock also solve the issue? The chance for buzz at the headstock past the locking nut after being correctly wrapped around the tuning peg would be low, right?

Also saves some more cutting, but that's just me being lazy.
Amps
Randall RG50TC, Roland Cube 15x

Guitar
LTD MH-100QM, Washburn X12

Effects and Etc.
Ibanez Weeping Demon, Boss FV-500H, Ibanez TS7, Ibanez PH7, dbx 31-band EQ, ISP Decimator
#61
Here are the stain tests...
This is the red i think i'll go with..


I also did a basic blue and green so people can get an idea of what they all look like...

All these are water based analine dyes.
#63
I'm a sucker for red, are you staining the back as well?




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Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

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#64
Quote by Absent Mind
I'm a sucker for red, are you staining the back as well?

The back is korina and i'm not sure how well that takes colored stain. It'll probably be either stained or painted black...
#65
It should stain fine, but just test it any way.

IMO if you stain the top and back red with faux binding on the maple top that would be killer!


Click the small thumb nails on the right for big pics of a red PRS korina, hard to tell if its stained or if its a toner lacquer coat though,

http://www.makenmusic.com/product.cfm?prodID=1064&catID=1




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#66
Quote by Absent Mind
It should stain fine, but just test it any way.

IMO if you stain the top and back red with faux binding on the maple top that would be killer!


Click the small thumb nails on the right for big pics of a red PRS korina, hard to tell if its stained or if its a toner lacquer coat though,

http://www.makenmusic.com/product.cfm?prodID=1064&catID=1


Damn that's pretty nice for just a simple finish.. looks like a lacquer with toner though. I'll have a go staining some off cuts and see how they turn out, from handling it it feels a bit oilier than mahogany so it'll be interesting to see. I was going for this look btw:

http://www.guitarasylum.com/product_images/prs/in_stock/prs-513-fire-red-01.jpg

I can't tell if the back is black or dark red from the photo but either would work nicely..
#67
^That's dark red. And it'll look awesome, judging from my opinion on the "viking red" ibanez S5470, which I always believed should be darker.
#68
Quote by Pikka Bird
^That's dark red. And it'll look awesome, judging from my opinion on the "viking red" ibanez S5470, which I always believed should be darker.


haha the red stain i'm using would be blood red if it was by itself, but the black layer i put underneath (which is actually a green-black) darkens it up a bit. I agree with you about the viking red though, it's almost a little brown-red but that might just be my computer screen..
#69
I am pleased to hear that. Just to save myself some reading time- are you going to attempt a burst edge like on the PRS you linked to?
#70
Quote by Pikka Bird
I am pleased to hear that. Just to save myself some reading time- are you going to attempt a burst edge like on the PRS you linked to?

yeah it's going to be a thin black burst around the edge. I'm a bit dodgy with the spray gun so i'll probably use an airbrush and take my time with it... no point spending ages on a good stain job to screw it up with the spraygun...
#72
Quote by Down&Out
I actually quite like the blue as its not often seen.


True, it's a nice colour... thing is, iv'e already worked on a blue guitar with my dad using that stain, so i wanted a red guitar to match, like a fire and ice kinda thing... but i agree, there needs to be more blue guitars in the world..
#73
Use a really dark red for the base coat rather than a black, helps with the 3D effect apparently.




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#74
Quote by Absent Mind
Use a really dark red for the base coat rather than a black, helps with the 3D effect apparently.


really? i might give it a try then... though the 3d effect on these tests are pretty pronounced. problem is you can't see it in a photo, i'd have to put a video up or something.
I found the best way to get that strong shimmering effect where the light and dark areas move around under a strong light is to use a card scraper after sanding. My impression of the science behind it is that the wood fibres are slightly semitransparent and reflect light off at different angles depending on their orientation. Sanding leaves tiny grooves on the surface (however small) and this scatters the light. When the wood fibres are cut cleanly, through scraping or microplaning, the light is allowed to stay straight. It gives one hell of an effect but it's hard to show..
#75
Are you planning on doing any binding? That red stain with white/cream bound edges and a matte black back would look phenominal.
[HARLEY-DAVIDSON]



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#76
Oh wow, those stains look phenomenal. The blue's a little dark, the green's great, but I'm glad you're going with the red and a slight burst edge. Looks amazing!

Water based analine dyes, eh? Never heard of them, but they work well!
Amps
Randall RG50TC, Roland Cube 15x

Guitar
LTD MH-100QM, Washburn X12

Effects and Etc.
Ibanez Weeping Demon, Boss FV-500H, Ibanez TS7, Ibanez PH7, dbx 31-band EQ, ISP Decimator
#77
Quote by velocigecko
Are you planning on doing any binding? That red stain with white/cream bound edges and a matte black back would look phenominal.


I'm going with a fake binding which is just leaving the maple edge unstained, and yes it's probably going to be that red with a black or dark red back..
#78
Quote by WinterSteel
Oh wow, those stains look phenomenal. The blue's a little dark, the green's great, but I'm glad you're going with the red and a slight burst edge. Looks amazing!

Water based analine dyes, eh? Never heard of them, but they work well!


Actually i can't spell.. it's aniline apparently. Anyway, these are the ones i use:

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dye.html

It's just a pack of bright colored water based dyes. I believe you can also use them with denatured alcohol..
#79
May I ask what dyes you did use for that awesome red? I was thinking of the same color for my Ultimate V.
#80
Quote by 3-R4Z0R
May I ask what dyes you did use for that awesome red? I was thinking of the same color for my Ultimate V.


I gave the link above for the dyes: http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dye.html

The red is made using the green-black underneath, sanded back to give contrast and then the red just straight by itself over the top.
Last edited by matt154 at Sep 20, 2010,