#1
So I found a cheap 90's Duo-Sonic and used my first paycheck to snag it. I love the body and the neck (scale 22.7 inches) anyways I am modding it, to feature a GFS 8k lipstick in the neck and a GFS wide range in the bridge. I like heavier strings, and found Musicians friend was selling $9 flatwounds 13-56 with free shipping, plus an 10% off coupon, so $8 WIN.

Anyways, the back of the package has a list of string diameters, lengths and tension. and it says based on a 25.5 inch scale. I have no idea how to set up a guitar, just wiring. I put 11-54s on right after i bought it, and it seemed fine, but I want this to be my beast rhythm guitar, and be perfect.

SO how do I check if I need to adjust the saddles, or the truss rod (nightmares).

PS the gay truss rod is in the bottom of the neck pocket... Can anyone tell me why that design could be a perk and not just a flaw?
#2
Yeah short scale lengths need heavy strings to even out the tension.

For saddle height adjustment, check all the way up the neck for any dead spots/buzzing on the frets. Raise the saddles a bit with the screws either side of the saddle, you'll need an allen key that fits though. Im thinking itd have the vintage style 7.5" radius, so dont expect bends on those higher frets to ring out, its normal if they choke, especially with heavier strings. But if you're using it for rhythym it wont matter too much.

For intonation. Make sure its perfectly in tune. Check the 12 frets of each string correspond with the open string, so the lowest string should be E open and at the 12th fret, if its a little off you need to move the saddle closer/further away from the fingerboard with the screws at the back of the bridge. Though, its a 3 saddle bridge so dont expect to get each one perfect. Just as close as possible.

If you set it up like and dont get any buzz or anything, you dont need to worry about the truss rod. The best way to check though is to fret the 14th fret on the low E string and the 1st fret at the same time. Look around the middle point between these frets (bout the 7th fret). If the fret is touching the string at the middle the neck is either strat or has back bow. Idealy you want a little relief so a gap the size of a credit card is ideal. But if youve just swapped your strings out, you should give to wood a weak or two to settle.

And the truss rod access screw is at the bottom of my jag too, its pretty retarded since you need to include string tension when calculating the relief, its annoying to have to keep removing the neck and replacng it.
#3
Best bet might be to do a little online research on basic guitar set-up. Specifically truss rod adjustment in regards to neck relief and saddle adjustment in regards to intonation. That aside if the guitar is playing, sounding and feeling fine the way it is then is there a need to adjust anything?

Ya, the old style truss rod adjustment at the end of the neck can be a hassle. Some folks alter the guitar pick-guard so that they can have access to the rod without having to take the neck off.


edit...beckyjc's post is a good springboard. Seems we were typing at the same time and you know how that goes....
Last edited by Earthrug at Aug 28, 2010,
#4
Thanks so much. also I did flats on a whim of curiosity, I mostly play punk, grunge and alt style. so most songs use a big muff, dano fab tone or both. I read some people even play metal with them so Im sure it's fine, just cant find hardly any reviews or comments on them. just jazzy help vids