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#1
Hello everyone, I'm new here and I've been reading up on guitars because I'd really love to learn to play. I'm looking for advice on what guitar I should get, I seem to have a soft spot for V's for some strange reason so I've been looking at different models. I've got my eye on a Jackson KVX10 and I was wondering would this be a good place to start? I've also looked at ESP's and wanted to know if I should go with the jackson then if I feel it's not got the kind of pickups i want I could upgrade them to active pickups or should I save my money and go for an ESP LTD V-401. I'm not very keen on spending £600 on a guitar when I can't play so I'm gearing towards the jackson, I also prefer the headstock and the size of the jackson compared to the ESP.

I like classic rock to thrash metal so I imagine that's what I'd be playing. I like cradle of filth but they're the only black metal band I like so classic 70's rock is about as soft as I'd get and thrash/speed metal is about as heavy as I'd get.

I was also thinking about a Fender Stratocaster? Is it worth considering over the other 2? Feel free to give alternative suggestions, I'm open to other guitars. Also I've read and took on board the info sticky.

EDIT: I've made my decision thanks a lot.
Last edited by storm20200 at Sep 18, 2010,
#2
id go for the jackson, £600 is far to much for your first guitar, a strat would do the classic rock but would be pretty useless for thrash.
#3
You should think about putting more money into a decent amp first, that will help you sound better.

Don't get a cheap P.O.S. guitar though, then you'll have no want to actually play the instrument..

But if you're wanting to sound good, although your ears aren't exactly trained yet (I'm assuming, here) your amp is the first thing you should focus on. The guitar will be the thing to affect your playability and whatnot.

All in all, just be sure you're happy with your gear, and don't get a guitar that you think is crap, but it's all you can afford.. Make sure you look used as well. Mighty fine deals around.

Hope it helps..
#4
I've not decided on how much I'm going to put into an amp, ATM I'm thinking of the Peavey vypyr 30w or a Vox VT30/VT15 but I want to settle on what guitar to get first then find an amp to compliment it, I'm not buying this right away but I'm aiming to have the guitar and amp before the end of the year. So for now the only thing I'm thinking about is the guitar, once I know which one I'll get I'll start looking in depth at amp models.
#5
i know you probably won't listen to this but it may be worth getting a cheap £30ish classical at first and stick withe it for 2-3 months so you can decide whether you enjoy playing the guitar (which is almost definate) and then you could upgrade to a better guitar maybe a low end ibanez rg or yamaha pacifica (very versitile)
#6
^ problem with that logic is that if he wants to play metal and hard rock, he's probably not going to enjoy playing a £30 classical very much. It risks being a self-fulfilling prophecy, in other words, and if he knows what he wants to play he might as well go for it. You wouldn't tell someone who wants to learn to drive to get a bike instead, for example. If you know you want to play electric guitar, get an electric guitar, and don't let anyone talk you into getting a classical or an acoustic, because that's the "proper" way. There is no proper way, do what you like, kind of thing.

Anyway, on to the original question, the problem with vs is that they're a pain in the ass to sit down with. And if you're only starting out you want to be spending a lot of your time sitting down practising. I would avoid either V for that reason if nothing else.

The MIM standard strat is kinda going to the other extreme- i'd prefer humbuckers for brootz, as would the vast majority of other hard rock metal players. Yes, some smart alec (hey, it's an internet forum) will probably come in and list yngwie, but the vast, vast, vast majority of hard rock and metal players use humbuckers.

I would get something like a superstrat (not necessarily Fender, I just mean the style of guitar)- it'll be comfy to play, easy to play sitting down, and will have 22 or 24 frets (if you need them), humbuckers (at least a bridge one), flatter fingerboard radius (for easier bends), etc. etc. Win-win, basically.

£600 isn't too much to spend if you know you'll stick with it, kind of thing. Even if you don't, you'll get more back if you sell it (though you'll still probably take a bit of a hit). How much money realistically are you willing to lose/spend? off the top of my head, something like a washburn x50pro, or yamaha pacifica 812v (if you can still find one, they've been discontinued) would be a good call, you're talking around the £400 mark for those.

I think a modelling amp like the vypyr or vox which you mentioned (I haven't tried the vypyr) is a good idea. Also consider the roland cube 30x, it's aimed at hard rock and metal too. Don't go any smaller, the smaller cubes don't have the amp models which you want.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Aug 31, 2010,
#7
Quote by shields17
i know you probably won't listen to this but it may be worth getting a cheap £30ish classical at first and stick withe it for 2-3 months so you can decide whether you enjoy playing the guitar (which is almost definate) and then you could upgrade to a better guitar maybe a low end ibanez rg or yamaha pacifica (very versitile)
I already have a £25 acoustic but the problem is I'm very much a night owl and I live with 2 other people with incredibly thin walls, that's the reason I'd rather learn on an electric because I can just headphone it up and not create anywhere near as much noise. With my acoustic people can hear it in the entire house so there's never a good time for private playing without irritating anyone. Electric is really the only way for me to go

Quote by Dave_Mc
snip
I know about the problem sitting down with V's but I've come to the conclusion that I wouldn't mind sitting with it in between my legs because I've been a guitar hero/rock band fan since the beginning so I've held a lot of different shapes sitting down, I know it's not the same as holding a real guitar but I've sat with the strat shape, les paul, I've had my acoustic and some of my uncles real guitars sitting down and I've found that my most comfortable posistion to sit would be to have a guitar going through my leg so I don't mind the V shape.

As for max price I'd rather not go over £400 for the guitar alone possibly £200 for the amp but I've not put much thought into it. Considering the good modelling amps like the peavey and vox for a low price I'd probably go for those since there's lots of different sounds I could get out of them for the different styles I'd be playing while learning. I'd be open to the idea of spending over £400 but tbh there would have to be a good reason because my ears won't be very experienced of what sounds good.

EDIT: I forgot I ruled out the roland cube 30x because it lacks a headphone socket does it not? I think I remember not seeing one on the manual from their website. A 1/4" or 3.5mm headphone jack is a requirement for me, my sennheiser HD595's have a 1/4" jack with a 3.5mm adapter so either is fine.
Last edited by storm20200 at Aug 31, 2010,
#8
id sya go with the strat. its the most versatile
Fender Strat 60th Anniv HotRoded
others

Marshall 1980 JMP 2203
Marshall JCM900 1960A Cab
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VOX v847a Modded
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#9
I would get the Jackson. To me, it sounds like that is the one you want. I have dinky out of the same series, and after a pickup change and a brass big block swap, its a great guitar.
***Guitars***
Epiphone Les Paul Custom AP (w/ 2 Seymour Duncans)
Jackson Dx10D Dinky (w/ DiMarzio PAF Bridge)
Epihpone Hummingbird

***Amps***
Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 100 (Voodoo Modified)
Custom 4x12 Halfstack (w/ Veteran 30's)
#10
Since your a beginner, I would go for the Fender strat for now, since its a classic, but if your for the heavy metal songs, go for the jackson kvx10
#11
looks like it has a headphone jack to me- at least according the roland website. obviously check to make sure before buying one, lol. http://www.roland.co.uk/products/productdetails.aspx?p=822&c=57

I've never been too fond of those jackson jt580lp trems- I've only tried them in shops, so I have no idea if tweaking them will help, but I always found them very stiff and unresponsive. A lot of people say they hold tuning pretty well for a licensed one, but I don't much see the point of a floyd if it won't react the way you want it to, lol.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#12
Nevermind I must've missed the headphone jack on the roland. I'm a bit on edge about the floyd rose. Aren't licensed supposed to be quite bad in general? Personally I don't care about it as I would be more concentrated on the playing than making awesome noises with a floyd rose. Do they usually hold tuning fine when they aren't used?
#13
depends... they're gonna hold tuning for longer if they're not used, but then you're into the whole "what's the point in having a floyd if you're not going to use it?" predicament...

depends on the licensed floyd, too- if you're talking the cheapo ones on cheaper guitars, then sure. But something like a gotoh ge1996t is badass, arguably as good as, if not better than, an OFR.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#14
get the strat, its the most versatile out of all guitars so for a beginner whos still looking for a musical direction
#15
Definitely go with the VOX VT30 It is a beast and has everything you could possibly need as a beginner except an on board tuner. Plus it is a hybrid with a tube so it can really scream!
#16
I'd say for £600, wait a bit, and get a Vox VT50 (£219) or a Peavey Vypyr 75 (£275) and a Epiphone SG400 Vintage (£199) or a Ibanez RG350, or at best if you can stretch, a Dean ML-79, V-79 or Z-79 (£350) I have an ML-79 (amazing) and a Line 6 Spider IV 75 (not too bad). It's good to get some gear you can grow into, so to speak.
#17
epi sg. fun to play, low action to make it even easier if you're just learning.
Always Rock!
#18
Quote by Trve_Satan
I'd say for £600, wait a bit, and get a Vox VT50 (£219) or a Peavey Vypyr 75 (£275) and a Epiphone SG400 Vintage (£199) or a Ibanez RG350, or at best if you can stretch, a Dean ML-79, V-79 or Z-79 (£350) I have an ML-79 (amazing) and a Line 6 Spider IV 75 (not too bad). It's good to get some gear you can grow into, so to speak.
I don't see the point going to that high a wattage, 30w is the max I'd ever need because I don't plan on playing with people and I'll mostly just be using headphones, I think even 30w might be more than my needs. Do people have any advice or experience on the Jackson? Mainly I know it's quite a metal based guitar but what about clean tones? Would it handle it that well? I've looked on youtube to see what kinds of sounds it can do but no one seems to do many clean songs with it
#19
the thing with some of those cheaper beginner amps is that sometimes the higher wattage versions have more features, more amp models etc. So basically go for the lowest wattage one which has the features you want and need.

Clean tones are probably alright on the jackson, as long as you like humbucker cleans. It's ages since I tried one.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#20
For an amp, definitely look into a Peavey Vypyr 30. It just sounds really good for a beginner amp. Far better to my ears than the other usual suspects (Roland, Marshall, Line 6)

For guitar, I wouldn't get either of those. I would not get a guitar with a floyd rose as your first guitar. That's just asking for trouble. Jackson and LTD both have cheap V shapes with fixed bridges that would be a lot better as first guitars. That way if you don't like electric, or if you can't get into the shape, it's not that huge of a loss.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#21
Quote by Offworld92
For an amp, definitely look into a Peavey Vypyr 30. It just sounds really good for a beginner amp. Far better to my ears than the other usual suspects (Roland, Marshall, Line 6)

For guitar, I wouldn't get either of those. I would not get a guitar with a floyd rose as your first guitar. That's just asking for trouble. Jackson and LTD both have cheap V shapes with fixed bridges that would be a lot better as first guitars. That way if you don't like electric, or if you can't get into the shape, it's not that huge of a loss.
The only thing lower than the KVX10 is the JS30KV and the JS32T which are pretty low quality guitars are they not? I'd like something I could upgrade if I find it doesn't meet my needs and as for the LTD I took the advice of the sticky recommendations and I'm staying away from anything lower than a 400 series ESP/LTD. I'd really rather not have the floyd rose but they don't do a KVX10 variant without it ^_^
#22
They are low end, but they're not bad guitars. At least, I know that the cheap LTD's definitely aren't. I would have no reservations about gigging with my V-50.

You should try them out yourself, and make an opinion based on that. A lot of people say below 400 LTD's are rubbish, but I don't think that's true at all. I think they're awesome for the money.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#23
I know everyone says to try before you buy but at the end of the day, I can't play, absolutely nothing so I don't see what I'd gain from trying and I wouldn't know exactly how to try out a guitar so I can only make my decision based on informed peoples opinions.
#24
If that's true, then it doesn't really matter what you get, does it?

You don't have to know how to play. Your skill isn't the object of trying at all. Sound has nothing to do with it. It's all about feel. Just sitting with it, having your hands around it, should tell you a lot in itself. Every person likes something different, and a lot of that can be cleared up just by holding different guitars. You'll at least have a lot better idea of what you like/want.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#25
i think they used to do a kvx10 without a floyd- discontinued, but keep your eyes open and you might get lucky.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#26
I would say £600 on your first electric guitar is way too much (not unless you've got money to burn.....). If a V shape is your thing then why not take a look at the Vintage VV60:
http://www.jhs.co.uk/vintageelectric.html (Scroll to bottom of page).
Vintage is a well known and respected brand in the UK and this guitar can be picked up for less than £300.
#27
Quote by GraemeAtRikkis
I would say £600 on your first electric guitar is way too much (not unless you've got money to burn.....). If a V shape is your thing then why not take a look at the Vintage VV60:
http://www.jhs.co.uk/vintageelectric.html (Scroll to bottom of page).
Vintage is a well known and respected brand in the UK and this guitar can be picked up for less than £300.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep that in mind, what about the 24.75" scale instead of 25.5"? Is it a good idea to go for 24.75" when 25.5 is so prominent? Reason I ask is I doubt this will be my only guitar so chances are unless I go for an explorer other guitars I get will be 25.5".
Quote by Offworld92
If that's true, then it doesn't really matter what you get, does it?

You don't have to know how to play. Your skill isn't the object of trying at all. Sound has nothing to do with it. It's all about feel. Just sitting with it, having your hands around it, should tell you a lot in itself. Every person likes something different, and a lot of that can be cleared up just by holding different guitars. You'll at least have a lot better idea of what you like/want.
I see what you mean. I didn't think of it that way but the idea for not going for low low end is because as I learn I expect my ears for good sound to get better. Thanks for mentioning the feel of it though. I have a jackson dealer 25 miles away so I think when I get the money I'll head down and have a hold before making my final decision. Thanks for the help so far guys.

EDIT: I checked the esp site and their is a ESP dealer where my grandma lives so I could have a feel of a LTD V hopefully. As for the strat they're everywhere
Last edited by storm20200 at Sep 3, 2010,
#28
Quote by storm20200
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep that in mind, what about the 24.75" scale instead of 25.5"? Is it a good idea to go for 24.75" when 25.5 is so prominent? Reason I ask is I doubt this will be my only guitar so chances are unless I go for an explorer other guitars I get will be 25.5".



Play both scales. Some people can play both just fine. Some people are like me - I can only play 25.5" or larger. Some people can only play 24.75". Try to see what's more comfortable to you. You may not be able to tell that right away though, it may take some months before you can recognize a difference in scale length and have a preference.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#29
hey man.
i grew up on heavy metal and grunge, moved to rock and roll and blues.
im also a v guitar junkie, my axes are a epiphone zv custom and b. c. rich draco.

now what neck scale will mean to you is this, the longer the neck scale the easier it will be to fret the string but a set of 10-52 strings will have more tension on the longer neck than the shorter. it just means harder bending, but easier shredding. theres a reason all metal guitars start at 25+ scale
if your gonna shred than your not really gonna worry too much for open chords, prob more power chords and shreds, open chords can be harder on a longer scale but i had my first b. c. rich at 15 and i got used to it really easily even back when i had smaller hands.

i bought the draco coz c'mon, is there any cooler v. but i realized that theres alot of tonal flexibility with 2 volume knobs, so i bought the epi too. now epis are pretty affordable and gibson invented the v so they have that going for it too.

now i dont shred as much as i used to, but i still do and even a guitar with one humbucker in the bridge and nothing more will give you all the shred you need. if you like slower lines for solos than a neck pickup will help you get a fuller tone for that. if you want all speed youll most likely stay on your bridge more often than not.

jackson and esp are great guitar brands, but there are other Vs out there that are cheaper, epiphones are good, and the right strings and pickup height adjustment can give you that sizzling buzzsaw sound that just cuts through. b. c. rich have affordable Vs as well. now there are a lot of b. c. rich haters out there, but even though a b.c. rich wont be as good as a jackson, itll be a great first guitar thatll last even through your first stages or gigging (just like a squier strat)

hope i helped and feel free to msg me
#30
Quote by devilchildblues
jackson and esp are great guitar brands, but there are other Vs out there that are cheaper, epiphones are good, and the right strings and pickup height adjustment can give you that sizzling buzzsaw sound that just cuts through. b. c. rich have affordable Vs as well. now there are a lot of b. c. rich haters out there, but even though a b.c. rich wont be as good as a jackson, itll be a great first guitar thatll last even through your first stages or gigging (just like a squier strat)

I tend to steer away from bc rich, not because I'm a hater, I don't know why so many people dislike them but because all of their designs appear very bold and it's like they scream at you in the face which I very much doubt I'd be able to pull it off. That draco is nice btw.

Should have my guitar sooner than I hoped so one last question, if I learnt on a 24 fret guitar then went to 22 would I find it a problem? Like do they add the extra 2 frets onto the end or do they squeeze the frets together to make room for the extra 2? If they squeeze it would I be better going for a RR3 or something while I learn?
#31
Quote by storm20200

Should have my guitar sooner than I hoped so one last question, if I learnt on a 24 fret guitar then went to 22 would I find it a problem? Like do they add the extra 2 frets onto the end or do they squeeze the frets together to make room for the extra 2? If they squeeze it would I be better going for a RR3 or something while I learn?


It depends on the scale length. If you go from 24 frets on a 25.5" scale to 22 frets on the same scale, the frets will have bigger spaces between them. Same thing with 24.75" scale. But if you go from say 22 frets on a 25.5" scale to 24 frets on a 24.75" scale, you're going to be in trouble, because they will be way smaller.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#32
Quote by Offworld92
It depends on the scale length. If you go from 24 frets on a 25.5" scale to 22 frets on the same scale, the frets will have bigger spaces between them. Same thing with 24.75" scale. But if you go from say 22 frets on a 25.5" scale to 24 frets on a 24.75" scale, you're going to be in trouble, because they will be way smaller.

So if I stuck to the same scale I don't need to really care?
#33
Quote by Offworld92
It depends on the scale length. If you go from 24 frets on a 25.5" scale to 22 frets on the same scale, the frets will have bigger spaces between them. Same thing with 24.75" scale. But if you go from say 22 frets on a 25.5" scale to 24 frets on a 24.75" scale, you're going to be in trouble, because they will be way smaller.


maybe i've misunderstood what you're trying to say, but if the scale length is the same, the distance between the frets is the same. a 24 fret neck just has a slightly longer fretboard/neck to accommodate those 2 extra frets.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#34
seriously, you always feel most at home on your own guitars, but after a little while you will be able to adjust yourself with very little effort.
kinda like driving a big car over a small car, youll think wow i fit sooo much better on this one as compared to the other. but once your fingers become better at hitting your mark, it will take very little conscious effort to jump from one scale to the next.
its really awesome getting your hands on your first guitar, and if you end up getting one you like it will stick with you, no matter how you grow as a musician. i have loved b. c. rich since i was 15, and i have moved on to more epiphone styles because of the tone im chasing. but ill always love the feel of a 25.5 scale 24 fret neck.

long story short. the more you play, the less it will matter. especially if you love your axe
#35
Quote by Dave_Mc
maybe i've misunderstood what you're trying to say, but if the scale length is the same, the distance between the frets is the same. a 24 fret neck just has a slightly longer fretboard/neck to accommodate those 2 extra frets.


I was always under the impression that the size of the fretboard never changed - the spacing of the frets just changed depending on whether there were 21-24 frets on the board.

Take an LTD EC for example. Some of them have 22 frets, and some have 24. Does that mean that the neck pickup on the 24's are moved down to accommodate for 2 frets? I always thought they were in the same place, but more frets were put in the same amount of space on the board.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#36
Quote by Offworld92
I was always under the impression that the size of the fretboard never changed - the spacing of the frets just changed depending on whether there were 21-24 frets on the board.

Take an LTD EC for example. Some of them have 22 frets, and some have 24. Does that mean that the neck pickup on the 24's are moved down to accommodate for 2 frets? I always thought they were in the same place, but more frets were put in the same amount of space on the board.


nah, you've got it wrong, what you're describing is changing the scale length.

"Does that mean that the neck pickup on the 24's are moved down to accommodate for 2 frets?"

that's exactly what's happening, yeah. that's why some people don't like 24 frets, it changes the tone of the neck pickup slightly.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#37
I would suggest a Fender Strat. It has wide frets so that you can shred quickly and easily. Single and double coil pick ups allow easy playability.

ron666
#38
pickups dont mean anything when it comes to playability, but to follow i agree with dave. 2 extra frets mean longer neck. my draco, 25.5 scale, 24 frets, only fits in a bass case. they dont squish frets in
#39
Alright thanks for clearing that up for me. Would anyone suggest getting the RR3 over the KVX10? I only ask because it would come with proper seymour duncans instead of duncan designed and the Pro series is a pretty good series IIRC.
#40
yeah probably, as long as you don't mind the slightly different shape.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
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