#1
Can anyone provide me with a sort of check list of things to do when you get a new tube head? I have my new head coming in this week maybe tomorrow, and my last experience...has me a little scared.

Lists of things to make sure this amp head doesn't go to crud first switch would be aweeeessooommmeeee.

oh and specific things NOT to do would be good too.

It's a Peavey btw.

Thanks,
JacobShredder
#2
Well if it has a power and standby leave the power on for a while to let it warm up then flip to standby. Also like with any amp always have a speaker plugged in or you could blow a transformer.

Also when turning the amp off flip the standby by and then the power. I flipped only the standby once a long time ago and woke up and the power was still on. Poor poor tubes.
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#5
what about specific speaker cables? I have a livewire speaker cable that is 3' and 16 gauge?

just wanna make sure this amp lasts..a loooooooong time.
#6
Quote by JacobShredder
what about specific speaker cables? I have a livewire speaker cable that is 3' and 16 gauge?

just wanna make sure this amp lasts..a loooooooong time.

when using a head/cab setup, it is of the UTMOST IMPORTANCE that you use a speaker cable. a reagular 1/4" cable will not be able to handle the incredible output from the head and the most likey result will require the Bugerextinguisher.
Quote by patriotplayer90
Lolz that guy is a noob.

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#7
Don't EVER put it in a microwave oven. Also, always make sure it's connected to a speaker.

Do turn up the volume. Distorsion pedals are usually redundant, use the onboard distorsion, and push it with an OD. Get an equalizer pedal.

What head is it?
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#8
Quote by Jhachey22
the most likey result will require the Bugerextinguisher.


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#9
All the tips here are pretty good. Warming up the tubes on standby isn't necessary for the health of your amp, it just makes your tubes last longer. If you just flip it on and start jamming you won't damage your amp, but you will reduce the life of the tubes.

Using an instrument cable to connect the cab to the head may work, but is a very bad idea. The wires are much smaller gauge, and will eventually fail when pushing all that current to drive the cab. When they fail, it's as if you were running the amp with no cab, and you can say goodbye to your output transformer.

Don't go poking about inside your amp if you don't know what you're doing. You'll either fry something, or kill yourself. Those big capacitors will stop your heart if they discharge into you. And they can hold a charge for a LONG time, so don't think just because you have the power off you're ok.

As long as you don't do anything stupid that will obviously cause damage to your amp, and follow the few general tips others have posted here, your amp should last you quite a while.
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#10
Quote by Jhachey22
when using a head/cab setup, it is of the UTMOST IMPORTANCE that you use a speaker cable. a reagular 1/4" cable will not be able to handle the incredible output from the head and the most likey result will require the Bugerextinguisher.

I'm seriously considering sigging this

But yeah, DO NOT use an instrument cable. Speaker cables are far thicker wire and can handle more current.
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#11
Quote by kylendm
Well if it has a power and standby leave the power on for a while to let it warm up then flip to standby. Also like with any amp always have a speaker plugged in or you could blow a transformer.

Also when turning the amp off flip the standby by and then the power. I flipped only the standby once a long time ago and woke up and the power was still on. Poor poor tubes.


wait? did you actually have your power tubes blow out from not putting the amp on standby?

not doubting, i just always hear it is a friend of a friend who's tubes blew out and the general consensus is that 'there is no harm' ala jpatan and the like (also heard it is a hang over from the days before tubes didn't use emulsifiers and standby was more necessary).

i always preached you could blow the power tubes, but when it came down to it i couldn't find anyone who actually had their power section blow out so i had to kinda eat it.
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#12
Quote by jpatan
All the tips here are pretty good. Warming up the tubes on standby isn't necessary for the health of your amp, it just makes your tubes last longer. If you just flip it on and start jamming you won't damage your amp, but you will reduce the life of the tubes.


Actually, you can run into some troubles, particularly with cheaper amps. Reason being, with immediate power delivery to the tubes before the filaments have had a chance to heat the cathodes, there is no current flowing within the tube and therefore no voltage drop across the plate load resistors. Depending on the amount of B+ voltage present and the tolerance of some of the internal components (coupling caps, etc.), you could possibly hurt a thing or two in the amp if you continue to hammer them over time with voltages above their tolerance.

But like I said, this would be more an issue in cheaper amps where the manufacturers cut corners and use low tolerance components.

EDIT: To the TS, an amp only needs to be on standby for 20-30 seconds. The tubes don't have to be at a particular temperature, that's not the point of standby. The point of standby is to heat up an element inside the tubes called the cathode. The glowing filament performs this function and it's mission accomplished after about 20-30 seconds on standby.
Last edited by CECamps at Sep 19, 2010,
#13
awesome, i almost pm'd you about this topic once cuz i wondered what you thought about it craig. that seems more right to me. i am just to novice to know stuff like that.

kyle, craig... is it possible to blow a power section for real when you don't warm up?
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Last edited by gumbilicious at Sep 19, 2010,
#14
Quote by JacobShredder
what about specific speaker cables? I have a livewire speaker cable that is 3' and 16 gauge?

just wanna make sure this amp lasts..a loooooooong time.


still wondering if that speaker cables good enough to do the job guys
#15
Gumbi, I think Kyle was saying he just flicked the standby off, but didnt turn the power off, and he left the amp on for a long time.
#16
unshielded, unbalanced speaker cable with with 1/4" plugs at least 18 gauge will fit the bill from what i remember. if that cord meets the spec you should be good.

edit: 16 gauge is thicker than 18 gauge so you should be good in that department.
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Last edited by gumbilicious at Sep 19, 2010,
#17
Quote by JacobShredder
still wondering if that speaker cables good enough to do the job guys


As long as it's a speaker cable (and not an instrument cable), you're fine. Doesn't matter what brand it is.

Gumbi, I've never heard of blowing a power section because standby wasn't used. I don't think it would happen. The voltage ratings of output tubes are generally WAY above idle B+ voltages. Perhaps you could eventually wreck some 6v6's over time, but that's probably a stretch.

EDIT: Like littlephil said, I believe Kyle was referring to leaving the amp on standby for an extended period of time...which is NOT good at all.
Last edited by CECamps at Sep 19, 2010,
#18
voltage drop across the output transformer (load for the power tubes' plates) is much smaller compared to plate resistors on your conventional 12AX7. and that the B+ voltages are smaller compared to the datasheet maximum for say, EL34s (max = 800vDC) or 6L6GC (max = 500vDC).
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#19
Quote by littlephil
Gumbi, I think Kyle was saying he just flicked the standby off, but didnt turn the power off, and he left the amp on for a long time.


oh

Quote by craig
Gumbi, I've never heard of blowing a power section because standby wasn't used. I don't think it would happen. The voltage ratings of output tubes are generally WAY above idle B+ voltages. Perhaps you could eventually wreck some 6v6's over time, but that's probably a stretch.


i have heard the claim a few times (from some people i trust more than i should i reckon) and never got a real straight answer (always a friend of a friend who it happened to).

i heard back in the day that tubes (particularly diodes) needed a bit of time to induce thermionic emmision, later they used emulsifiers to 'speed up the process' and stdby became less important and sending a signal through the amp before the rectifier tubes started flowing electrons can damage an amp. that is the only thing i heard that sounded like it would realistically damage the amp.

once again, thx craig.
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"A perfection of means, and confusion of aims, seems to be our main problem."
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#20
Quote by ECistheBest
voltage drop across the output transformer (load for the power tubes' plates) is much smaller compared to plate resistors on your conventional 12AX7. and that the B+ voltages are smaller compared to the datasheet maximum for say, EL34s (max = 800vDC) or 6L6GC (max = 500vDC).


It wouldn't so much be attributed to no voltage drop across the OT primary, but rather the B+ voltage itself. With no current drawn from anywhere in the amp, the B+ at the power tube plates would be higher than it would normally be at quiescent draw. But still, not high enough to do any damage.
#21
Quote by gumbilicious
i heard back in the day that tubes (particularly diodes) needed a bit of time to induce thermionic emmision, later they used emulsifiers to 'speed up the process' and stdby became less important and sending a signal through the amp before the rectifier tubes started flowing electrons can damage an amp. that is the only thing i heard that sounded like it would realistically damage the amp.

once again, thx craig.


Welcome.

BTW, sending a guitar signal into the amp before the rectifier tube is delivering B+ would never damage anything.
#23
Quote by BurstBucker Pro
Never turn your amp on with no speakers attached, even for a minute...

It could hurt your amp.

ong as it's in standby, it should be fine. I've done that lots of times to let other people use my cab or when I had to share a cab with someone else.
Quote by patriotplayer90
Lolz that guy is a noob.

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#25
Woohoo, the new amp is in.

Just to quadruple check:

The 120W tube head is okay to use with a 120W 8ohm Marshall MG cabinet.
The LiveWire 3ft 16gauge cable is fine to use to link them.

correct?
#26
As long as the following are true.

The live wire is definitely speaker cable.

You have your amp switched to 8 ohms and not 16 or 4.

Don't crank it too loud. 120w tube with a 120watt cab is pretty meh. It will wear on the speakers after a while but that's only if you crank it. It's good to have a cabinet that can take more wattage than the amp delivers.

What amp did you get?
Guitars:
Ibanez UV777P
Ibanez RGD2127FX
Ibanez RG3120TW
Ibanez RGD7321
Ibanez RG6003FM
Ibanez SA160
Jackson Slatxmg3-7
Amps:
Baron Custom Amps K88
Rivera Knucklehead TRE
Fryette Sig: X
Randall RM4 /w Modded modules
Cabs:
Mesa 4x12
Bogner 4x12
Peavey 4x12(K85s)