#1
A time of decision is upon me. I let GB&C decide on my neck, so I'll let GG&A give input on my bridge.

My money is slowly but steadily gathering. I've decided that I want a wraparound bridge for my guitar build for the classy/vintage vibe. I do want adjustable saddles, though. I'm not a fan of the pre-intonated wraparounds/stoptails.

I've found 3 bridges in a similar price range that I like. I'd like to stay under $100, but two of the options are over.

Pigtail Wraparound, $89.95 (studs not included)

TonePros AVT-II G, $130

Gotoh 510UB, $70

I must be honest, I'm leaning toward the Gotoh. Not just because it's cheaper (considerably cheaper), but it looks pretty bitchin' and I trust the brand.

Any one have experience with any of these? Or how about any other wraparounds I should consider?
Last edited by Seref at Sep 27, 2010,
#2
nice thread title o_O

EDIT: why do you want it to be adjustable? if you're prefer the tone of a more normal... er... wrapover bridge () there's a wilkinson/gotoh one which has adjustable bits with an allen key...

like this:

I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Sep 27, 2010,
#3
Those kinds don't let you adjust intonation as much as an adjustable saddle bridge. I like the adjustability of a TOM but without the stoptail piece. I earlier considered doing a TOM with string-through ferrules as the tail, but I don't want to have ugly ferrules on the back of the guitar.
#4
get one that's modeled on the prs one. that one is best.
Jumping on dat gear sig train.
PRS Hollowbody II / BKP Warpigs
Strandberg OS6T / BKP Aftermath
Strandberg OS7 / Lace Poopsticks
Skervesen Raptor 7FF / BKP Warpigs
Skervesen Raptor 6 NTB / BKP Juggernauts
Hapas Sludge 7 FF / Hapas Leviathan
Anderson Baritom / Motorcity Nuke BKP Sinner Anderson H2+
Warmoth Baritone / BKP Piledriver
Ibanez Rg2120x / BKP Nailbomb

Blackstar ID:Core Beam
#6
Quote by AcousticMirror
get one that's modeled on the prs one. that one is best.


I think that's the TonePros. It was designed as a drop in replacement for USA PRS guitars. Also the most expensive of the group. $130 just seems like a bit of a price gouge. Can it really be that much better?

Quote by FatalGear41
It isn't a wraparound bridge, but the Schaller 456 is the best of its kind as far as I know:

http://guitar-bridge.com:80/hp193108/Bridge-Tailpiece-Combination-456.htm

It should fit right in there just like a wraparound.


Eww... Same price as the Gotoh from Warmoth, but way uglier. If it didn't have that fine tuner thing in the back... I have no need for the fine tuners, and it ruins the look completely.
#7
I dunno but I know prs charges like 250?
Jumping on dat gear sig train.
PRS Hollowbody II / BKP Warpigs
Strandberg OS6T / BKP Aftermath
Strandberg OS7 / Lace Poopsticks
Skervesen Raptor 7FF / BKP Warpigs
Skervesen Raptor 6 NTB / BKP Juggernauts
Hapas Sludge 7 FF / Hapas Leviathan
Anderson Baritom / Motorcity Nuke BKP Sinner Anderson H2+
Warmoth Baritone / BKP Piledriver
Ibanez Rg2120x / BKP Nailbomb

Blackstar ID:Core Beam
#8
Then there's always this one:

http://guitar-bridge.com:80/hp135015/Bridge-Tailpiece-Combination-455.htm

If you try to do this on the cheap, you are going to regret it. Without a good bridge, your guitar isn't going to play in tune. If the bridge saddles aren't cut and filed properly, you are going to have tuning problems and string breakage. If the bridge isn't made from a good solid casting or machined from a well-made billet, then you are going to have little or no sustain. Don't look for the best deal. Look for the best bridge.

And if you end up using locking tuners, you are going to wish you had those fine tuners at the bridge. They make life a whole lot easier.
"Maybe this world is another planet's hell?" - Aldous Huxley
#9
Quote by AcousticMirror
I dunno but I know prs charges like 250?


Well yeah. But they also charge $15 per knob and $10 per pack of strings.

Quote by FatalGear41
Then there's always this one:

http://guitar-bridge.com:80/hp135015/Bridge-Tailpiece-Combination-455.htm

If you try to do this on the cheap, you are going to regret it. Without a good bridge, your guitar isn't going to play in tune. If the bridge saddles aren't cut and filed properly, you are going to have tuning problems and string breakage. If the bridge isn't made from a good solid casting or machined from a well-made billet, then you are going to have little or no sustain. Don't look for the best deal. Look for the best bridge.

And if you end up using locking tuners, you are going to wish you had those fine tuners at the bridge. They make life a whole lot easier.


Added that one to my considerations.

I'm not trying to do it on the cheap, I'm trying to do it on the sensible. Trying to do it on the cheap would be a $20 GFS bridge. I just find it hard to justify spending $130 on a bridge when for $20 more I could get a piezo loaded LR Baggs TOM. That's an extremity I don't want to be at.

I just can't justify an extra $30 for 2 more seconds of sustain. A bridge that's $80 isn't gonna be bad. Hell, a bridge that's $40 probably won't suck, either.

It's also worth noting that I'm upgrading from a Squier Affinity Strat, so virtually anything is an upgrade :P
Last edited by Seref at Sep 27, 2010,
#10
Quote by Seref
Those kinds don't let you adjust intonation as much as an adjustable saddle bridge. I like the adjustability of a TOM but without the stoptail piece. I earlier considered doing a TOM with string-through ferrules as the tail, but I don't want to have ugly ferrules on the back of the guitar.


oh yeah, sure. if you want the ultimate intonation adjustment potential, then the ones you're looking at are a better idea. I just thought I'd mention the other ones in case you weren't aware of them.

EDIT: you won't pay an extra $30 for two more seconds of sustain on your wraparound? this thread keeps on delivering the double entendres... o_O
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Sep 27, 2010,
#11
Quote by Dave_Mc
oh yeah, sure. if you want the ultimate intonation adjustment potential, then the ones you're looking at are a better idea. I just thought I'd mention the other ones in case you weren't aware of them.

EDIT: you won't pay an extra $30 for two more seconds of sustain on your wraparound? this thread keeps on delivering the double entendres... o_O


Yeah, well I like wraparounds for the looks and ease of use. I don't wanna go drilling holes willy nilly in a 5A quilted maple top. I actually care about a nice pronounced pick attack more than sustain, which is probably another contradiction in a wraparound thread. I'll never realistically need to hold a clean note for even 5 seconds in a song, and if I do it'll be a rarity.
Last edited by Seref at Sep 27, 2010,
#12
yeah, i mean it's up to you, you know what you need.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#13
wait which extremity don't you wanna be at with your wraparound?
Jumping on dat gear sig train.
PRS Hollowbody II / BKP Warpigs
Strandberg OS6T / BKP Aftermath
Strandberg OS7 / Lace Poopsticks
Skervesen Raptor 7FF / BKP Warpigs
Skervesen Raptor 6 NTB / BKP Juggernauts
Hapas Sludge 7 FF / Hapas Leviathan
Anderson Baritom / Motorcity Nuke BKP Sinner Anderson H2+
Warmoth Baritone / BKP Piledriver
Ibanez Rg2120x / BKP Nailbomb

Blackstar ID:Core Beam
#14
That extremity money wise. If for that same amount of money I can afford a piezo bridge, it seems a bit overpriced. At the same time I don't want it to be so cheap it seems like it belongs on a higher-end Epiphone. I figured the $100 neighborhood was a good mark to shoot for.

I mean, I'll take the TonePros if anyone's got a testimonial as to how awesome it is, but until then I'd like to collect other opinions on other bridges just to have a decent pool to pick from.
Last edited by Seref at Sep 27, 2010,