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polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#1
I originally posted a build thread in May, but it turns out I jumped the gun, as I wasn't nearly ready for a build. My dad is going to co-build this, along with his woodworking friend.

FINAL SPECS (I think..):

Body:
-One piece black walnut body
-PRS Custom-esque body shape with lower horn cutout
-Hand-carved top

Neck:
-Either 5 piece flame maple/black walnut neck or just 1-piece flame maple neck
-25.5" scale
-24 fret flame maple fretboard
-Stainless steel gold frets (Xlarge/jumbo)
-Black walnut headstock veneer
-14" radius
-Miscellaneous other goodies

-Grover mini locking tuners
-Hipshot hardtail bridge
-BKP Aftermath pickups
-3 way pickup selector
-1 volume, 1 tone pot

The deadline I have for the build is to have it completely set up and finished by the end of May. (edit: Well, it didn't exactly make the deadline, but close enough )

Front w/ no flash and template for sizing:


Front w/flash:


Back w/flash and puppy:



FINAL EDIT: PICTURES OF IT COMPLETED ON PAGE 9
Last edited by polishedbullet at Aug 28, 2011,
Don't Panic Ok?
Clive Dunn
Join date: Oct 2007
279 IQ
#2
Sweet dog!

Sweet wood too.

DON'T PANIC! DON'T PANIC!
THEY DON'T LIKE IT UP 'EM!
-MintSauce-
Time Lord
Join date: May 2006
2,394 IQ
#4
That walnut is lovely! You should find a way to work the dog into the build too - perhaps use his eyes for inlays, and make your own bone nut.
Jugtones
Junk Collector
Join date: Jan 2011
122 IQ
#5
That is a gorgeous piece of lumber! I can't wait to see what becomes of it!
-MintSauce-
Time Lord
Join date: May 2006
2,394 IQ
#7
Quote by LRCGUITAR
The grain on that dog is awesome!


I wouldn't like to see it going through a planer though.
polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#9
@Explorerbuilder: The wood's at 1 15/16" currently. That would be fine for me to do a carved top, right?

Oh, I also did this:




Pictures are a bit drab and don't do it justice, but that's the pretty much the final body shape.

We cut it so it would have as little sapwood as possible. It was also the best cut since the grain pattern changes right down the middle. Towards the bottom right it's what my dad's friend referred to as a "fishbone" grain, similar to a pattern you'd see on tiger maple.

The area where the neck will be is uneven but we'll smooth that out on a later date.

Good news: There's enough wood for a second guitar . However, a second would be way over budget, unless somebody wants to order one
LRCGUITAR
Lancashire, UK
Join date: Dec 2009
913 IQ
#10
Quote by -MintSauce-
I wouldn't like to see it going through a planer though.

I'm sure everyone's done something like that at some point, it's part of the process...
-MintSauce-
Time Lord
Join date: May 2006
2,394 IQ
#13
Sweet!

Until then, don't be tempted to use water - it'll only warp the wood.
-MintSauce-
Time Lord
Join date: May 2006
2,394 IQ
#15
Quote by Explorerbuilder
No it wont, not that little of moisture.


Doesn't it raise the grain on the surface and make it uneven?
polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#19
Sprayed a little water on it and got some weird results:

Flash


No flash


The bottom right of the guitar gets much darker than any other part. Kinda weird/annoying, but I guess it will just add some character to the guitar.
evhbrianmay
Has a Pet Whale
Join date: Dec 2009
1,656 IQ
#22
Quote by -MintSauce-
I wouldn't like to see it going through a planer though.


:O
I'm up for building you a pedal.
(Or modding nearly anything moddable)
(PM Me.)
Jason Jillard
Luthier
Join date: Mar 2009
2,151 IQ
#23
Quote by polishedbullet
I was thinking about the whole bridge/neck pocket problem and have to ask:

Would it make more sense for me to ship the body to you so you could have a physical object instead of just pictures?



yeah, if you could get the body+bridge to me, i could ensure a tight fiting pocket, and then get the neck angle right aswell.


OR, you can keep the body, il build the neck, then ship the neck to you.

once you have the neck in your possession you can accurately route the neck pocket and bridge.

that would save you with shipping costs.
polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#24
My dad came home today and surprised me with these:


Two potential headstock veneers and a possible truss rod cover! I prefer the left one (although it has bad camera/light flash), although I will probably send both to Jason when he builds the neck. Neck specs will also be updated in OP
polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#26
No pictures today, sorry. I need to start ordering parts, specifically the cavity controls, tuners, bridge, and pickups.

I plan on using a Hipshot Hardtail .125 gold bridge for this. How do I ground all of the controls to this bridge? Google isn't helping much.
polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#27
Coming home at 11pm tonight from band practice, I walk into the laundry room and see the neck template for my build. Underneath that are 3 pieces of maple: 2 flame soft maple blanks and 1 flame hard maple blank.

Turns out my dad knows a guy who knows a guy (etc, etc.) that sells maple blanks to a very prestigious guitar company (name withheld). My dad got each maple blank for $30 a piece, and I just have to say OH MY GOOD JESUS GOD.

The largest piece, a soft flame maple blank, is large enough to make an entire one piece neck. It is AT LEAST 3A maple I'd say, if not 5A. You can see the flame from 10-15 feet away without any mineral spirits or anything. It was an AMAZING deal.

With all that said, I have no pictures that I can provide until Sunday.
Last edited by polishedbullet at Feb 26, 2011,
Knurlheim
Registered User
Join date: May 2008
315 IQ
#28
Quote by polishedbullet

With all that said, I have no pictures that I can provide until Sunday.


Jason Jillard
Luthier
Join date: Mar 2009
2,151 IQ
#31
alright cool. whatever is fine with me, the way things are going, there is no doubt in my mind that you have the skill to build the neck yourself, but at the same time i would still be good to go to do it for you.

but in my honest opinion, i think you can do it. order in a slotted fretboard and go to town on that thing.
polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#32
In an effort to prevent further disappointment, here you go.. some nice wood porn:

Soft flame maple


The one hard flame maple


Group shot:


Group shot + neck template for proportions:


I'm sure you can guess who the guy I bought this from normally ships this out to

Also, any help grading this (3A, etc) would be appreciated!
SoulSlaughter
Registered Usher
Join date: Mar 2009
190 IQ
#34
+1 on Jasons idea.
just cuz he's the king around here.
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polishedbullet
Can't Read
Join date: Oct 2008
2,064 IQ
#36
Thanks everyone!

Jason, think I should use the soft maple (the piece with greater flame) for the fretboard and neck? Any risks I'm taking by using the soft maple instead of hard maple? IIRC, the guy my dad bought this from said Gibson used soft maple, while PRS used hard maple. So I guess it's preference..
Copaman
GB&C's Crystal Baller
Join date: Oct 2008
472 IQ
#38
That is absolutely gorgeous maple.


Gibson uses Mahogany for most of their necks though, iirc... maybe they use soft maple for the tops?

I would do what Jason said, truss rod with carbon fiber supports. The maple will look amazing and there will be plenty of support in the neck.
build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
ikey_
Registered User
Join date: Dec 2009
4,739 IQ
#39
man thats some good stuff. i love good walnut, especially burl. and that is amazing flame. personally, ive always wanted a birdseye neck with a satin finish. i think it looks stunning.
rapfohl09
Registered User
Join date: Dec 2008
188 IQ
#40
Figured I would come out of posting retirement to say this. Soft maple generally has much more beautiful figuring and as such is often used as tops for guitars without any problem. "Soft" Maple is still a very hard wood, however, it is generally NOT used for fretboards because it simply isn't hard enough. When slotting it will chip and splinter. It would be fine for the neck backs though.