#1
Hi.
I own an AC30 TB6 which has worked perfectly for as long as I've had it, up until last night in rehearsal. I switched it on as normal- Power switch, wait, standby switch. Everything's fine for about 1 second then both the red and orange light go out and I lose power. I unplugged from the wall, checked the fuse and sure enough it's blown. I fit a new fuse, power back up and the same thing happens again. I've done some Googling and the main bit of advice I can find is that should replace the GZ34 valve. As I have no knowledge of valve types, could anyone advise me on if this is the right thing to do please? Is it an easy job or should I get a tech to do it and is going to cost a packet?
I'm going on tour this Friday and really need it to be back working asap so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
you probably need to replace all your valves. if you are going on tour you should probably take it in for a tech to do a full checkup.
Jumping on dat gear sig train.
PRS Hollowbody II / BKP Warpigs
Strandberg OS6T / BKP Aftermath
Strandberg OS7 / Lace Poopsticks
Skervesen Raptor 7FF / BKP Warpigs
Skervesen Raptor 6 NTB / BKP Juggernauts
Hapas Sludge 7 FF / Hapas Leviathan
Anderson Baritom / Motorcity Nuke BKP Sinner Anderson H2+
Warmoth Baritone / BKP Piledriver
Ibanez Rg2120x / BKP Nailbomb

Blackstar ID:Core Beam
#3
Quote by AcousticMirror
you probably need to replace all your valves. if you are going on tour you should probably take it in for a tech to do a full checkup.



+1. I've bee out on a lot of tours and played a lot of gigs, first thing I do before I have a string of shows is either bring it to my tech or do it myself. have the thing looked over and make sure its in working order.
Quote by gregs1020
Brett has been saving for a splawn for 4 years
countries have been toppled in the time it's taking, revolutions won got a black pres

yawn


Quote by bubb_tubbs
When he finally gets one it'll probably be televised like the Berlin Wall coming down.
The end of an era
#4
Thanks, I'll get on it today. Any recommendations for what type of valves I should get? I know precisely nothing about them. I need to do some reading!
Thanks again guys.
#5
a tech should have some standard tubes in stock. grab some jj's or eh tubes. grab an extra matched set too. you don't wanna run out when you are on the road if you need replacements.
Jumping on dat gear sig train.
PRS Hollowbody II / BKP Warpigs
Strandberg OS6T / BKP Aftermath
Strandberg OS7 / Lace Poopsticks
Skervesen Raptor 7FF / BKP Warpigs
Skervesen Raptor 6 NTB / BKP Juggernauts
Hapas Sludge 7 FF / Hapas Leviathan
Anderson Baritom / Motorcity Nuke BKP Sinner Anderson H2+
Warmoth Baritone / BKP Piledriver
Ibanez Rg2120x / BKP Nailbomb

Blackstar ID:Core Beam
#6
Definitely sounds like something beyond your capabilities and should be taken to a tech. Bad luck dude. My personal fave tubes are JJ's. Alot of people swear by them.
Ibanez RGR421EXFM >> Maxon OD808 >> BOSS NS-2 >> Peavey 5150 212
#7
Thanks that's all great advice. I'm also going to stock up on mains fuses just in case one blows for 'normal' reasons whilst I'm out on tour. Would I be right in thinking that my amplifier takes a 3.15A fuse?
#8
I am a big NOS fan, especially of rectifiers.

I think the most likely reason you blew your fuse was rectifier related.

NOS JAN Philips/Sylvania 5AR4 (Mislabeled 5V4GA) rectifier at $85.00 is the cheapest NOS (5AR4 /GZ34) Rectifier Mike at KCA NOS would recommend...
https://www.kcanostubes.com/content/nos-jan-philipssylvania-5ar4-mislabeled-5v4ga-0

From the link in my sig...

Fuse issues:
newsong wrote: Playing along just fine on my Maz 18 NR when all of the sudden my sound just faded out. Checking the tubes, found that my rectifier wasn't lit. and the 1/2 amp fuse blown. Any thoughts?

myles wrote: 95% chance it is a failed rectifier. The AC fuse blown will generally blow when a rectifier is bad. The 1/2 amp (High Tension, B+, or plate voltage) fuse will blow if an output tube fails so... There is also a very high chance one of your output tubes blew, and perhaps took out the rectifier.

Like I say over and over and over... Change EL84 output tubes in cathode biased amps often.


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ntg wrote: Hi, our MAZ-18 Jr. is blowing it's 2A fuse when turned on, and left in standby.
But it will not blow the fuse if switched fully on.

We have been working around the problem by going to full power without tube warmup which we know is shortening tube life, etc, and is not the ultimate fix.
It is also important to note the problem is intermittent - it occurred multiple times during a single week, and then stopped for a month or so.
We thought we had a batch of bad fuses, but the problem has returned.
We are strapped this week getting it back for service as it has to go on the road Wed, the 5th through the 9th.
Any ideas on what may be causing this?
v/r, ntg


doctorice wrote: I had intermittent disappearing sound, then some fuse episodes, although not the same as your description. Bad rectifier.
It's a good idea to have some spares anyway, so lay in another rectifier and some power tubes.
Good luck getting your MAZ back on the road.


iluvpunz wrote: I am pretty sure that you have a Rectifier tube problem.
I went through a similar bout of problems with 4 different new (brand new, not ever put in an amp) JJ GZ34 tubes.
I finally bought an NOS rectifier and all of the problems went away.


****************************************

Posted on the net by tele_jas: "My amp tech told me that JJ's are some of the best rectifier tubes, but to "be careful with JJ rectifier tubes, they can go in wrong"!
Sure enough, I could put mine in in more than one position...
The correct way was easier to slide in, but the other ways still went in pretty easy. So yeah, I can see how this will happen".
Last edited by BurstBucker Pro at Mar 31, 2011,