#1
Hi there people,I'm new here haha.

Well i wanted to build my own clone of the Crunch Box pedal since i dont want to weaste another 150$ from something i can do for around 15$,and the fact its a hassle to find here something usefull.

Now here is the layout\scematics (i guess the newest one,since its layed out in 2008?):
http://www.4shared.com/document/uC-R6-UT/Distortion_-_MI_Audio_Crunch_B.html
(PDF File)
would like to see a newer one if someone has.

Now the questions:
1.Now everything there is very clear and easy to do but i dont see there any switch so this effect could be powered off and still pass the clean of the guitar,is there none? because its super uncomfortable when i perform.

2.The LM833 is pretty common or its a rare component?

3.What does it mean if a have 100K A pot or 10K C pot,what the letters A and C represent,can i use any 100K and 10K pots?

4.how much current you guys think this circuit needs?

Seems like its every thing i have to ask,thanks for help guys .
Sorry if its the wrong place or already have been answeard before,as i didnt find any info on that.
#2
For stompbox wiring with switches and LEDs:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

LM833 is common
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=ICs+-+Op-Amps+and+Linear&searchpath=2591213&start=25&total=75

A, stands for Audio Taper, C, I think is Reverse audio taper. More info on pots:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Pots/

Current draw, no idea but a guess would be around 20mA

Edit:
You can use pots with different tapers but the changes will be different when the pot is turned. Not a major issue though but I would try to keep to the design.
Last edited by CodeMonk at Apr 23, 2011,
#3
Quote by CodeMonk
For stompbox wiring with switches and LEDs:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

LM833 is common
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=ICs+-+Op-Amps+and+Linear&searchpath=2591213&start=25&total=75

A, stands for Audio Taper, C, I think is Reverse audio taper. More info on pots:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Pots/

Current draw, no idea but a guess would be around 20mA

Edit:
You can use pots with different tapers but the changes will be different when the pot is turned. Not a major issue though but I would try to keep to the design.


Thank you very much sir .

Trying here to understand the Stompbox Wiring...as far as I see in the middle is the original PCB that I need to make aka "Crunch Box" and V+ is the Vcc(=9V) input,output are the same as on the PCB,but I keep asking myself...why 2 grounds isn't 1 is enough?.
on the left is the output and right is the input(stereo),the switch is 9-pin one right with sometimes a red light yea?.
and can I use a 2 pin regular 9V plug?,I'm not going to use any battery's.
Well that's it I would like that someone would verify it .
#4
Uhm.....you need batteries for the circuit to work.
Or somekind of power source at least.
Last edited by CodeMonk at Apr 23, 2011,
#5
Quote by CodeMonk
Uhm.....you need batteries for the circuit to work.
Or somekind of power source at least.


Lol that's obvious,I'm gonna run it from a regular 9V power supply,not battery.
Is the rest is fine?.If so Ill start it tomorrow I think .


EDIT:
What kind of switch has 9 pins?
Last edited by AncientRole at Apr 23, 2011,
#6
Quote by AncientRole
Lol that's obvious,I'm gonna run it from a regular 9V power supply,not battery.
Is the rest is fine?.If so Ill start it tomorrow I think .


EDIT:
What kind of switch has 9 pins?

Well, you would be surprised at how many n00bs think otherwise on the power source bit.

3PDT has 9 pins.
You can use a DPDT if you don't want an LED but cost savings would be minimal.

As for the grounds. You are getting ground from the power source and the other jack.
Not a deal breaker if you skip one (In some cases its actually better not to).
Google "Ground Loops".

But as long as the jack is securely grounded to the enclosure, you will probably be ok.

If you can, do a build thread when you get done. With Pics. And sound clips if possible.
Last edited by CodeMonk at Apr 23, 2011,
#7
As for the C value pot, I believe smallbear stocks some reverse audio taper. You can also use a linear pot, and a paralleled resistor or two to change the taper. For 10k, you can use a 100k pot and a 10k paralleled resistor (you could also use a 12k resistor if you wanna be a stickler) See figure E. (dropbox photo)

100k pot - 10-12k resistor
20k/25k pot - 12-15k resistor
20k/25k pot- 20k/25k resistor

Those combinations will all give a reverse (anti-log) taper, with the first being the most extreme taper, and the last being the more linear taper. For the extra 4 dollars, it might be worth playing with it and seeing what you prefer.
#8
Quote by CodeMonk
Well, you would be surprised at how many n00bs think otherwise on the power source bit.

3PDT has 9 pins.
You can use a DPDT if you don't want an LED but cost savings would be minimal.

As for the grounds. You are getting ground from the power source and the other jack.
Not a deal breaker if you skip one (In some cases its actually better not to).
Google "Ground Loops".

But as long as the jack is securely grounded to the enclosure, you will probably be ok.

If you can, do a build thread when you get done. With Pics. And sound clips if possible.


I think I will buy the 3PDT as its pretty stupid to save half a $ haha isn't it?.
I think I will just connect all the grounds to the ground from the jack it will be much better.
Now about the tut,Ill try to make one if the time wouldn't be a problem.
And thanks also for the replay about the pots nice to know that but I just prefer to buy the right pot its much more compact.
Please don't lock the thread mods I may ask more questions here,and remember helping someone is helping thousands more ,(people that actually search).
#9
Well hello again,sorry for a long time of no responding.
So i bought most of the parts but seems to be missing the 3PDT switch,the 2 100k A Pots,1 10k C pot couple capacitors and the LM 833(all this seems to be unavailable in my town).
I started my job and I'm taking photos of it so probably i will make a guide .
And since I'm pretty bad with anything that comes with capacitors I wanted to make sure that:
104 capacitor is 100nf capacitor?,101k is 100pf?,what is the capacity of .2k 100ua green capacitor,.001K Z5U cap?
All the resistors,diode already on-board,soldered and waiting for the capacitors .
And what leds should i use the 2.5V(darker) or the 4V(brighter)?.

Thanks for Helping Me\Us Out :P.
#10
10*10^4=10^5 that's in picoFarads, for 10^5*10^-12=10^-7=.1*10^-6=.1 microFarads=100*10^-9=100 nanoFarads.
Pico= 10^-12
Nano= 10^-9
Micro= 10^-6

The other cap codes can be harder to decipher, and can vary by manufacturer, are there any other markings? Which caps did you order? At first guess, I'd say that the .2 and .001 are either in micro or nano Farads.

You whichever LED you prefer, just alter the series resistance to get the brightness you want.
#11
Quote by blandguitar
10*10^4=10^5 that's in picoFarads, for 10^5*10^-12=10^-7=.1*10^-6=.1 microFarads=100*10^-9=100 nanoFarads.
Pico= 10^-12
Nano= 10^-9
Micro= 10^-6

The other cap codes can be harder to decipher, and can vary by manufacturer, are there any other markings? Which caps did you order? At first guess, I'd say that the .2 and .001 are either in micro or nano Farads.

You whichever LED you prefer, just alter the series resistance to get the brightness you want.


Okay thanks, ill go buy caps soon its not a problem and ill just mark them .