#1
as stated in title, i am building a weber JTM45 clone and am aware that they aren't tip top quality, so where would my money best be spent upgrading individual parts?

i also have been recommended the cap can mod, which i am likely to do at a later date, as for now i am just sticking to schmatics, because i am learning.

i have been doing a lot of research on everything from ground busses to star grounding, lead dress and that type of stuff. any additional tips are welcome.

here is the schematic and layout respectedly.

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/6m45_schem.jpg
https://taweber.powweb.com/store/6m45_layout.jpg
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#2
There's really nothing bad in those kits. The pots, switches and jacks are all name brand parts. The caps are Weber's Mallory clones and sound decent enough. Weber's transformers sound pretty nice. I guess if you wanted to go the mojo route, you could invest in Zoso caps and carbon comp resistors. Honestly, if it were me, I'd buy the cap cans just because the filter cap board is such a royal pain in the ass.
#3
Quote by Jason43
There's really nothing bad in those kits. The pots, switches and jacks are all name brand parts. The caps are Weber's Mallory clones and sound decent enough. Weber's transformers sound pretty nice. I guess if you wanted to go the mojo route, you could invest in Zoso caps and carbon comp resistors. Honestly, if it were me, I'd buy the cap cans just because the filter cap board is such a royal pain in the ass.


good to know, i have been looking on the weber forums for that cap can mod.

what exacctly does a cap can do better/differently?

why is it easier?
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Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



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#4
is there any use for 12ag wire in amps? i have tons of it, stranded and unstranded, in multiple colors, and have a virtually unlimited supply if i can use it. i just don't know if that is way overkill to the point of sacrificing tone due to more capacitence.
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Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



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Last edited by trashedlostfdup at Apr 26, 2011,
#5
if anything, the power supply filter caps... their electrolytic caps are rather bad. there was a big scandal before too, not sure if they got better filter caps.

either that, or (if you say they're ok) then get auricap signal capacitors, or better tube sockets (i didnt like weber sockets), new tubes (NOS 12AX7/5751, KT66), etc.
Call me "Shot".

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Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


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#7
i'd scrap whatever caps they give you and grab f and t's for all your caps.

you can use your 12gauge wire. it's actually better in some areas. harder to work with though.

replace any ceramics in the kit with a silver mica of the same value.

replace the electrolytic caps they give you for cathode bypass capacitors with film caps.

63vdc polyster or 200vdc metalized film.

replace all your resistors with vishay/dale rn65d, irc rn70, irc g3, prp, or holco.

replace your screen grid resistors with non inductive mini wirewounds 2 or 3 watts.

replace all your power supply dropping resistors with thick film power resistors, caddock, txa, mills, vishay.

replace all the stock capacitors with better capacitors. don't use any sozo bullshit.

mallorys are good enough. solen for something more modern.

or pm me the cap values you need and I can supply you with sprague black beauties.

replace all the caps with pec or usa clarostats.

umm in that order. most to least important.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#8
Quote by trashedlostfdup
good to know, i have been looking on the weber forums for that cap can mod.

what exacctly does a cap can do better/differently?

why is it easier?

They don't really do anything differently. The filter board they supply bolts down to the PT mounts and it's just really cramped there. Some people have had problems making it work at all because of the room. The cap cans just take up less space and are easier to work with. As far as upgrading to a different brand of filter caps, thats a little bit of overkill IMO. I can't recall anyone on the Weber forums having problems with them. Beefier screen grid resistors would be a good idea. I used 1k, 5w resistors on mine. You may want to look into a different speaker impedance switch. The one they give you is fine, but it's complete overkill for the kit and takes up so much space that it almost touches the pins of the V4 tube socket. You'll want to buy better tubes too. The no name chinese tubes they give you are good for start/testing, but thats about it. I doubt you'll need the extra wire, my kit had plenty. If you did use it, it'd probably be decent for the filament wiring.
#9
Quote by AcousticMirror
i'd scrap whatever caps they give you and grab f and t's for all your caps.

you can use your 12gauge wire. it's actually better in some areas. harder to work with though.

replace any ceramics in the kit with a silver mica of the same value.

replace the electrolytic caps they give you for cathode bypass capacitors with film caps.

63vdc polyster or 200vdc metalized film.

replace all your resistors with vishay/dale rn65d, irc rn70, irc g3, prp, or holco.

replace your screen grid resistors with non inductive mini wirewounds 2 or 3 watts.

replace all your power supply dropping resistors with thick film power resistors, caddock, txa, mills, vishay.

replace all the stock capacitors with better capacitors. don't use any sozo bullshit.

mallorys are good enough. solen for something more modern.

or pm me the cap values you need and I can supply you with sprague black beauties.

replace all the caps with pec or usa clarostats.

umm in that order. most to least important.

Sounds like a harsh hi-fi amp.
#10
Quote by kurtlives91
Sounds like a harsh hi-fi amp.


ya? cuz all those things increase the negative feedback over 6db add local negative feedback around every stage and decrease the thd of the amp to under 1 percent?

you heard it hear first guys. difference between guitar amp and hifi amp. parts. that's it.

you're shit magically turns into a voltage regulator and a constant current sink if you upgrade it too far.

oh **** I replaced my cathode bypass caps with film caps and they turned into a zobel network and glued themselves to the output transformers. wtf.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
Last edited by AcousticMirror at Apr 26, 2011,
#11
Obviously you failed to understand the point behind that. What you are suggesting is essentially upgrading all of the parts to what is normally used in HiFi amps because they don't "flavor" the amp at all.

A lot of what you recommend isn't exactly going to change much either. Most amps don't give a damn about the difference between carbon film and other types of resistors.

Basically.... why do most of that to a JTM45... its not like Marshall used those types of components, so why exactly would you do that when you build a JTM45
#12
Quote by XgamerGt04
Obviously you failed to understand the point behind that. What you are suggesting is essentially upgrading all of the parts to what is normally used in HiFi amps because they don't "flavor" the amp at all.

A lot of what you recommend isn't exactly going to change much either. Most amps don't give a damn about the difference between carbon film and other types of resistors.

Basically.... why do most of that to a JTM45... its not like Marshall used those types of components, so why exactly would you do that when you build a JTM45


shit so the first thing on that list f and t filter caps.

no guitar amps use those.

black beauties? 50s era caps with the same construction as the jtm45 era mustard caps?

1 percent resistors? oh man better not get too crazy.

ya i'm really missing the point here.

I respect that you know your stuff xgamer but this is nonsense.



ya you know what

i'd scrap whatever caps they give you and grab f and t's for all your caps.

ya don't do that. obviously the less hi fi choice are the spragues.

you can use your 12gauge wire. it's actually better in some areas. harder to work with though.

whelp it's looking like marshall's actually using 20 gauge solid core back there on the output jacks. not only is it thinner but less high fi.

replace any ceramics in the kit with a silver mica of the same value.

ya the hi fi guys are really crazy about silver mica. can't get enough.

replace the electrolytic caps they give you for cathode bypass capacitors with film caps.

63vdc polyster or 200vdc metalized film.

too late marshall already did this. some one should tell them about teh hifi.

replace all your resistors with vishay/dale rn65d, irc rn70, irc g3, prp, or holco.

replace your screen grid resistors with non inductive mini wirewounds 2 or 3 watts.

oh wait those are wire wounds already on the screen grids
if you want to be authentic you can use 10 percent resistors and get the signature who the hell knows what the values are goodness of marshall. or you can actually know what you're building with 1 percent.

replace all your power supply dropping resistors with thick film power resistors, caddock, txa, mills, vishay.


replace all the stock capacitors with better capacitors. don't use any sozo bullshit.

mallorys are good enough. solen for something more modern. someone missed this disclaimer.

or pm me the cap values you need and I can supply you with sprague black beauties.

ok I meant mustard caps. It's hard to remember who used what.

replace all the caps with pec or usa clarostats. I meant pots. Because higher quality sealed pots are apparently hifi. so maybe don't do this.

umm in that order. most to least important.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
Last edited by AcousticMirror at Apr 26, 2011,
#13
well, if we upgraded these caps, maybe we'd get a JTM45 that sounds even better!

resistor switch could be nice, if we can eliminate resistor hiss. even if the jtm45 were hisy, we want hiss? no.

i would first question the qualoty in weber caps still. if you have a drill bit to make a wide enough hole to fit cap cans, itll save lots of space inside the chassis. also, make sure ur heater wiring doesnt look like that pic min posted. haha
Call me "Shot".

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Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


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#14
If you read it you would have noticed I said a lot of what you said, not all.

I do agree with the F&T caps, but a number of the things just don't matter.

Marshall did use film caps yes, in areas where film caps are basically what you are already getting for that value.

Its that most of what you are suggesting isn't that much of a thing really. Filter caps won't change the sound that much, film caps versus electrolytic caps in the cathodes won't matter that much... Its all trade offs of "mojo tone" versus actual results.

No need for 12 gauge wire, and to be honest it won't fit in most of the terminals anyway. You could wrap it... but why pay more for wire that isn't going to matter.

Silver Mica isn't that bad of a suggestion

1% resistors in an amp is no necessary, tolerance doesn't matter as much as you might think. Guess what... most of the resistors in that amp are already rounded to the nearest E12 value. A number of those brands you list are popular with the HiFi guys. I do want to try out some PRP resistors.

Screen grid resistors don't matter that much as long as you have a high enough value. It won't matter if its 900-1100 ohms as long as you have it high enough. It also doesn't matter about it being non-inductive. 5W 1k cemet resistors are fine there, you can use others if you want but the cost versus gain factor is small. Non-inductive wire wound tends to be considered "HiFi"

I doubt you've used Sozo if you say they are bad. I've actually had nothing but good results with them, but Mallorys are good too. Solen's are good too, but they tend to be a "HiFi" cap.

Sprauge black beauties would be fine, but have you tested them all to make sure they are actually good. I'll let you know this... if you haven't checked them for leakage then you don't know if they are good or not.

Alpha pots are usually okay for just about any amp, you can use PEC or Clarostat and get a bit tougher pot, but its not going to make a difference tonally except for taper.

Feel free to debate otherwise, I'm up for that... but most of what I've said has been backed with years of experience.
#15
Quote by AcousticMirror
ya? cuz all those things increase the negative feedback over 6db add local negative feedback around every stage and decrease the thd of the amp to under 1 percent?

you heard it hear first guys. difference between guitar amp and hifi amp. parts. that's it.

you're shit magically turns into a voltage regulator and a constant current sink if you upgrade it too far.

oh **** I replaced my cathode bypass caps with film caps and they turned into a zobel network and glued themselves to the output transformers. wtf.

Your making an ass of yourself.......stop.

I'd fully show you why you’re wrong but I’m busy studying to be an electrical engineering; so here's a quick break down, champ.


12AWG wire won't fit anywhere. I use 18AWG for heaters in 100W KT** amps (read high current draw) and 16AWG for ground buses. Good luck fitting this 12 gauge wire in a tube socket lug along with other components. But you seem like your all pro at this stuff now, there must be some great reason for using 12AWG wire?

Ceramics have their own unique tone and are defiantly not inferior to SM tone wise. Yes on a spec sheet SM blows the ceramic out of the water. In certain areas SM caps can be quite harsh though, the little grittiness and edge of ceramics can be better. Should be noted there are good quality ceramics and ones that are well not so good quality.

Film bypass caps....Hifi technique
Just makes the amp faster, brighter and a different beast. If amps were supposed to use film bypass caps like you’re saying the manufactures would make them like that and list the schematics/layouts of reflect this.
Your not going to see more than 5V on your cathodes champ so 63V DC is not needed . Hell cathode biased output tubes won’t see a voltage that high.

The resistors included in the Weber kit are 1% already. That doesn’t mean they are good and they aren’t. MF resistors change the tone quite a bit again you seem to know what this guy wants.... Resistors = tone thing. No right or wrong ones. If you want to cut down on noise implement a good grounding scheme and lead dress. You might want to read up on lead dress

Not going to notice much difference with inductive (wire wound ) vs non-inductive screen resistors. Tried it before. You’re getting into mojo talk. You and your buddies been smoking crack again?

Sure PSU resistors should be the adequate size! No problems there bud, I'm all for overdesigning. I don't agree you need certain brands though. Man your a real sucker for marketing and hype. Wathing TV must be an experience.

Sozo's are great caps in my opinion. I'd use them any day over your leaky old BB pulls. They are new, consistent and are made for a set standard. You probably don’t realize but Sozos have a break in time just like any cap. It takes a while for the di-electric to "break in" essential. Lots more info on Sozo website about this. Again this tone thing, there is no right or wrong cap choice. You seem to think otherwise.

Caps can’t be replaced by PEC or Clarosat. Maybe you mean pots??? Please proof read and learn how to spell. If you got the dough (which you clearly have) that’s not a bad upgrade though. I don't mind Alpha's for some positions, CTS are nice too. NOS Fenders are where it's at imo. 30% audio taper!!!


Having built a few Weber kits for people I can say this. Their iron, resistors, pots, jacks and switches are garbage. I heard they got new jacks and switches though so maybe that’s ok now. They make the cheaper kits out there, you get what you pay for. A lot can be upgraded if you have the time and the money. Personally I'd save up a bit more and get something nicer or go the DIY route.
(their speakers, cabs and chassis are quite nice though!)
#16
I found a few guts on the interweb. I really dig these. You might get along with this guy AcousticMirror. His amps are tiiiiight!






Ahhh fancy resistors.............................................I'm wet lol

#17
Let's take a basic literacy exam shall we?

OP states Weber JTM45 what to upgrade if I wanted to spend 50 bucks.

There's a long list of suggestions in my initial post followed by the comment, in that order.

Now, it seems to me that there are at least a few other people suggesting that the filter caps in the kit be replaced.

F and t, sprague who cares.

The other suggestion further down the line?

optional and if you have the money to spare.

Do you understand how that conversation goes?

X...a new production wirewound is cheaper then a cemet. That's the only reason I suggested that. You'll notice that in the photo of the production Marshall that they are using a a wirewound on the screen grid. Inductive, non-inductive, whatever. They are the same price.

Kurt - I've seen your gutshots. You are the master of filling up a turret board I have to admit.

The difference is that I'm just starting. What'd your third build look like? A fancy filled turret board?

Those parts are in that picture you posted, 10 cents a resistor. If you're really strapped for cash sure get resistors that are a cent.

You know what the problem is though, you only see what you like to see and you are great at regurgitating stuff you've been told.

You see a bunch of fancy parts here?



bag of resistors from an estate sale. 10 dollars for 2 pounds.

Having a preference for certains things isn't an excuse to be willfully ignorant.

I'll use whatever I can get my hands on. I'm pretty sure it's you two that are fanboys about what's ok to use.

Tell me Kurt, when was the last time you deviated from something someone else told you?

just grabbed some wire from home depot.



oh btw: should I email marshall and tell them to stop using film bypass caps and that it's bad or are you on that already?

i'm a real fancy lad.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
Last edited by AcousticMirror at Apr 26, 2011,
#18
Kurt, the questionable parts in their kits have been upgraded. My kit was alphs pots, carling switches, switchcraft speaker jacks, not sure what the input jacks were. My only real complain about the kit was the filter cap board design. I somewhat disagree about the iron. I've used their OT's in other amps and have been pleased.

Ceramic caps are a non issue since the kit he wants doesn't include any. Their coupling caps are supposedly Mallory clones. Not sure how true that is, but people seem to be happy with them. The resistors I can't comment on.
#19
Quote by AcousticMirror

oh btw: should I email marshall and tell them to stop using film bypass caps and that it's bad or are you on that already?


Or maybe you should learn that the one film bypass cap that is in the amp is used because of the value. If it were over 1 uF it would be an electrolytic cap.

As for what Chris's third build looked like.... well... it was pretty ****ing nice.Hell... his first build was quite nice as far as the wiring goes.

I have no problem with someone using any parts in their build, but its worth knowing what the benefits versus trade offs of using the parts is.

If your getting a new production wirewound, that is non-inductive, cheaper than a cemet resistor your being lied to. I get cemet block resistors for pennies most of the time.

It may be some of the engineer in me, especially the power supply engineer, but I tend to look at a lot more as far as parts than most people. I've taken caps in and measured their ESR etc, and the things I've found would make most guitar amp "guru's" shit a brick. Sprague and F&T caps are two of the worst brands for high esr and leakage current. The best caps I've actually found are Nichicon and Xicon. Panasonic caps are also good too if you can find them. Sprague caps were miserable though.....

What may be the best coupling caps I've heard are actually "cheap" xicon mpp caps.

Sozo caps are quite good, their vintage aren't worth the extra money, but they are a slight step up from Mallory. The tend to have lower leakage, lower inductance, and lower ESR. Never worked on a Solen, if I get a chance I may try to get a large selection of caps to measure all of those things.

As for the weber kits,

I think they ship with Mallory 150s now for the marshalls and some orange drop by sprague derivative for fender amps.

If I had 50 dollars, I would look into modding the amp to go between the JTM45 and a bassman. You could have a switch to change the feedback resistor, or even change it to a pot. Then you have two amps in one.

Also... KT66s!

Upgrading the filter caps would work, if I was going to upgrade any coupling caps I would upgrade the two for the power amp. I tend to hear the largest difference there.

I would also increase R20 and R21 to 1k or 1.5k. EL34s have pussy screens and die from screen failure usually.

In the schematic for the 6m45 R36 is the feedback resistor and C1 and C2 are the power amp coupling caps.
Last edited by XgamerGt04 at Apr 26, 2011,
#20
Quote by XgamerGt04
Or maybe you should learn that the one film bypass cap that is in the amp is used because of the value. If it were over 1 uF it would be an electrolytic cap.

As for what Chris's third build looked like.... well... it was pretty ****ing nice.Hell... his first build was quite nice as far as the wiring goes.

I have no problem with someone using any parts in their build, but its worth knowing what the benefits versus trade offs of using the parts is.

If your getting a new production wirewound, that is non-inductive, cheaper than a cemet resistor your being lied to. I get cemet block resistors for pennies most of the time.

It may be some of the engineer in me, especially the power supply engineer, but I tend to look at a lot more as far as parts than most people. I've taken caps in and measured their ESR etc, and the things I've found would make most guitar amp "guru's" shit a brick. Sprague and F&T caps are two of the worst brands for high esr and leakage current. The best caps I've actually found are Nichicon and Xicon. Panasonic caps are also good too if you can find them. Sprague caps were miserable though.....

What may be the best coupling caps I've heard are actually "cheap" xicon mpp caps.

Sozo caps are quite good, their vintage aren't worth the extra money, but they are a slight step up from Mallory. The tend to have lower leakage, lower inductance, and lower ESR. Never worked on a Solen, if I get a chance I may try to get a large selection of caps to measure all of those things.


well no shit dude. I'm reading what's actually written in the thread. Are you?

.68 electrolytics are made. I've got a bunch. They are definitely used. Marshall didn't use one in that position. So if you get one in a kit or whatnot, it's ok to replace it with a film cap.

How is that hard to understand.

Some of the other schematics I've looked at show a 330uf in that position. It's probably not reasonable to replace that with a film cap. That's common ****ing sense.

vishay rw70. new production mini wirewounds have far lower inductance ratings then old school wire wound power resistors.

100 for 7 bucks.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#21
A .68 uF electrolytic cap is a relatively new value in electrolytic caps. Film caps were always easier to make in that value.

That being said, we are looking at a JTM45... which only has one cathode bypass cap which is 250uF

More than likely if the kit is for an amp that used a film cap in that position its going to be a film cap. Changing it from electrolytic to film isn't going to be a huge difference.
#22
well of course.

i wrote that in a long list of possible upgrades.

i looked at the jtm45 schematic after i posted.

but still the notion that changing that cap in that jcm circuit from a film to an electro drastically changes the amp is just insane.

because they used film caps in that position all the time when they could.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
Last edited by AcousticMirror at Apr 26, 2011,
#23
Quote by AcousticMirror
Let's take a basic literacy exam shall we?

OP states Weber JTM45 what to upgrade if I wanted to spend 50 bucks.

There's a long list of suggestions in my initial post followed by the comment, in that order.

Now, it seems to me that there are at least a few other people suggesting that the filter caps in the kit be replaced.

F and t, sprague who cares.

Good point you brought up there. I forgot about their filter caps. They were getting counterfeit ones for a long time, low voltage ratings and mislabeled capacitance. I forget the brand name, I have a few in stock (not being used of course!). I dissected a few and like most who had before me found one or more radial caps inside the axial packaging. Pretty scary really.

Matt kind of brought it up but anyways....if you want really good caps check out some Nichicon and Panasonic caps. We as amp builders are kind of limiting ourselves cap wise because we like our axial caps so much in our hard wired amps. If you get a chance check out the selection of radial caps aviable, some real nice stuff out there. You can go on Mouser and use their shopping cart to narrow things down to non-inductive, low ESR, rating for 1000 degrees, with a gold plated leads.


Quote by AcousticMirror
The other suggestion further down the line?

optional and if you have the money to spare.

Do you understand how that conversation goes?

Starting to make sense now. I’d be lost without you me thinks....


Quote by AcousticMirror
Kurt - I've seen your gutshots. You are the master of filling up a turret board I have to admit.

Thanks!
(I generally use eyelets though, prefer them )


Quote by AcousticMirror
The difference is that I'm just starting. What'd your third build look like? A fancy filled turret board?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/kurtlives/DSCF0246.jpg


Quote by AcousticMirror
You know what the problem is though, you only see what you like to see and you are great at regurgitating stuff you've been told.

Research and time learning then killed anyone. I’d rather know what I’m saying then talk from my ass. I love to get my hands dirty though and learn things myself. I think learning things in practice and/or on your own is better than any textbook. At least for me....
I hardly regurgitate information, I rather based my words on personal facts and findings.


Quote by AcousticMirror
You see a bunch of fancy parts here?



bag of resistors from an estate sale. 10 dollars for 2 pounds.

Not fancy by the looks of it. Don’t forget to measure them and make sure they are in spec and check out ok.


Quote by AcousticMirror
Tell me Kurt, when was the last time you deviated from something someone else told you?

Everyday.

Going by the same old shit everyone is doing/saying is the easiest way to set yourself up for failure.

And just to bring something up that you touched on before. I am not repeating the same old stuff. If you notice on every amp I build I try to do something different. Try a different brand of resistor, a new cap style, slightly different lead dress on the tubes for example, different co-ax. A different grounding configuration in certain areas.

I build a lot of amps (hardly any for me now, so not on UG) so I get to try stuff out. It’s a learning experience and keeps things fresh. I can’t imagine repeating the same old tired method amp after amp.


Quote by AcousticMirror
just grabbed some wire from home depot.


Nice!

I get my ground buss wire from there. You know house wire, with the three conductors. 16AWG

Quote by AcousticMirror
oh btw: should I email marshall and tell them to stop using film bypass caps and that it's bad or are you on that already?

They only do this with the 680nF bypass cap on the first triode on their Plexi’s. It’s for tone there. Film caps are generally found in smaller values because they become to large and costly to make above that x value. They do provide their unique tone. 680nF isn’t very common in electrolytic form.

The small value cathode bypass cap coupled with the fact it’s film make up gives that quick, fast tight somewhat bright response we have come to know and love from Plexis.


Quote by Jason43
Kurt, the questionable parts in their kits have been upgraded. My kit was alphs pots, carling switches, switchcraft speaker jacks, not sure what the input jacks were. My only real complain about the kit was the filter cap board design. I somewhat disagree about the iron. I've used their OT's in other amps and have been pleased.

Ceramic caps are a non issue since the kit he wants doesn't include any. Their coupling caps are supposedly Mallory clones. Not sure how true that is, but people seem to be happy with them. The resistors I can't comment on.

O glad to hear that Jason! Weber is getting their act together!

Just my experience but I have had 3 Weber PTs go tits up on me. Two of them had internally shorted heater wiring which caused a lovely smoke show I must add. The other one had a dead bias tap. If you do a little searching you’ll see Weber’s PTs aren’t held in high regards.

I have had no issues at all with their OTs though! They are actually quite decent and many people seem to like them as well.
#24
I don't think there's any reason to continue having an argument over this.

Anyhow, I tested maybe 50 of those resistors before I gave up. No two are the same value.

The only reason why I said 63v in my rec for the film cap up there is because that's the lowest rated film cap that I've seen commonly available.

of course it's a moot point if the bypass is a 330uf.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#26
you started it.

you're probably the reason Franz Nicolay left the band.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#28
i know everything about you mr. lyric signature man.

the lifter puller collection has been in my car on repeat for ever.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#29
Quote by kurtlives91



O glad to hear that Jason! Weber is getting their act together!

Just my experience but I have had 3 Weber PTs go tits up on me. Two of them had internally shorted heater wiring which caused a lovely smoke show I must add. The other one had a dead bias tap. If you do a little searching you’ll see Weber’s PTs aren’t held in high regards.

I have had no issues at all with their OTs though! They are actually quite decent and many people seem to like them as well.

Gotcha. I was speaking strictly on the tone I've gotten. I guess time will tell if the iron in my kit holds up.
#30
Quote by kurtlives91
How the fu ck do you know I like The Hold Steady???
That is seriously seriously weird.
Half impressed though.
Quote by AcousticMirror
i know everything about you mr. lyric signature man.

the lifter puller collection has been in my car on repeat for ever.
Nice! Amp design collaboration next?

#32
i think at the moment i am just going to throw some tubes in there, and maybe do the cap can thing. my objective is to learn, so i am sure i will be swapping all sorts of parts out in time.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



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#33
You know you want variable negative feedback :p

I'm acutally looking into building a JTM45 or Bassman sometime in the future and implementing the variable feedback mod. I have to save up to get Chris to build me an amp first though.