#1
A recent problem that's started with my guitar is when I use the whammy bar, even just a little bit, it falls out of tune, but really goes on the G string more than the others for some reason. It's a floyd rose set up, it's a £200 guitar so I should imagine the floyd is nothing special.
It still goes out of tune when the locking nuts are fully tightened, someone told me that it could be the pivot points on the guitar being worn out, however, I'm not sure what he means by that, or where these pivot points are for that matter...
I'm just hoping that it's just where I've incorrectly restrung it or something simple like that, but this didn't happen last time I restrung it.

Could anyone advise me and possibly give me a solution to this annoying problem? >.<
My guitar's a Vintage V8BRQ, bought from Gear4Music and set up by myself. The warranty for parts ends next month, however, if I need to send the guitar off for assessment, it could well cost me more than a new part for the guitar and take more time.
I will upload pictures if anyone thinks that would help them...

Thanks in advance for any help
Yours sincerely
~Chris L
#2
Sounds like the knife edges are dull. I think the easiest thing would be to block the trem unless you really like using it
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#3
Did you stretch the strings properly when you re-strung it? Is the bridge sitting level?
And for £200, the guitar won't have a good trem. So don't expect it to hold tune for very long.
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#4
How does it go out of tune, and what do you do when they go out of tune? Do they untune when you use the whammy bar, or not? When you pull up and release, what direction does the string untune to? When you push down? Do all of the strings go out of tune, o just a few?
#5
When you changed strings did you change the gauge or brand? If so it will need to be setup again. Otherwise I'm thinking it's possible that the knife edge is dull (where the floyd meets the mounting studs). I used to have problems with the strings slipping at the bridge which put them out of tune too.
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#6
yeah, it could be your knife edges. check to see if the floyd is level with the body, if it's tilted either direction tuning stability is compromised.
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#7
I didn't change the brand or gauge from last time I restrung it (Ernie Ball Regulars), I set the bridge up so it's flush with the body.
When I use the whammy bar, all of the strungs go out of tune just a little, but the G and one other if I remember rightly go out of tune a lot more. Anytime I use the whammy bar I have to undo the locking nuts and retune it using the machine heads because it goes out too far to retune on the fine tuners on the G. If I push down on the whammy bar (going lower pitched), the strings will detune lower with it... If I pull the whammy bar up (going higher pitched) then it will detune the guitar higher.

If it is the case of buying new bits, what do I need to buy and where can I get it (UK)?, or alternatively, does anyone know of a good quality floyd rose bridge (gold hardware) that will last me quite some time but not cost too much?

Thanks everyone
~Chris L
#8
Sounds like the knife edges wearing down - they're what connects the bridge to the posts that hold it up. Putting a bit of Chapstick in there (or otherwise lubricating it) will work for a while, but in the end you just have to learn to deal with it.

I used to pull up after every divebomb just a little bit (and vice versa), too - it may just pull it back in tune if it goes out.

PS. Schaller makes a really good replacement Floyd, costs a little over 150 pounds last time I saw one in a store though. Considering your guitar was only 200 pounds, I have to wonder if it's worth it.
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Last edited by PsiGuy60 at May 13, 2011,
#9
Take off the top locking nuts, stretch the strings out, tune it back up, play it without the locking nuts and use the vibrato for a while, tune it up, lock it up. Done.
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#10
It really sounds like the strings are slipping in the nut. If you pull up and it goes out of tune sharp, then dive and it goes out of tune flat... that sounds to me like the strings are moving past the lock nut. Did you put the nut pieces back on upside down? I've heard that people can run into problems if they go back on wrong. It's hard to tell my looking at them, but I think they're contoured one way so they lock better. If they're upside down they may not be locking properly. At least that's something simple to try out.

If you're still in the warranty period I'm assuming the guitar is still fairly new, and the knife edges shouldn't wear THAT fast unless the bridge is made of tin or something
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#11
Quote by jpatan

If you're still in the warranty period I'm assuming the guitar is still fairly new, and the knife edges shouldn't wear THAT fast unless the bridge is made of tin or something

You'd be surprised at how fast cheap Licensed Floyds will wear down, and I can't imagine a 200 pound guitar will use a relatively good tremolo.

I woudn't be surprised if it really is the knife edges, especially if the nut is completely tightened to the point of flattening the windings. The locking nut is usually the most reliable thing on a Licensed.
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Last edited by PsiGuy60 at May 13, 2011,
#12
Thanks for the advice everyone, I did look at bridges earlier including Schaller and they were all at least £130 which is no where near enough what I'm willing to spend on a new bridge. I was thinking £50 tops if anyone has any recommendations... I saw some on eBay for £15 on average but I'm not even going to waste my money because if any are crap, it's gonna be those.
#13
It is literally impossible to find good bridges of ANY kind for under 50 quid... Sorry to say that.

Going to a tech and having the thing re-set up is probably your best bet. Worst case scenario is him having to sharpen the knife edges, which should still be doable for under 50 quid (if prices for my local tech are to be upheld).
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#14
Quote by PsiGuy60
It is literally impossible to find good bridges of ANY kind for under 50 quid... Sorry to say that.

Going to a tech and having the thing re-set up is probably your best bet. Worst case scenario is him having to sharpen the knife edges, which should still be doable for under 50 quid (if prices for my local tech are to be upheld).


Why on Earth would a tech do that when it's easy to find replacement posts (Here on EBay for example, £8 delivered). Strings off, detach springs, lift trem out, unscrew old posts, screw in new ones, trem in, attach springs, re-string, set-up, done
#15
Quote by Chris050493
When I use the whammy bar, all of the strungs go out of tune just a little, but the G and one other if I remember rightly go out of tune a lot more. Anytime I use the whammy bar I have to undo the locking nuts and retune it using the machine heads because it goes out too far to retune on the fine tuners on the G. If I push down on the whammy bar (going lower pitched), the strings will detune lower with it... If I pull the whammy bar up (going higher pitched) then it will detune the guitar higher.
I had this problem with my first Ibanez RG - it had the original Floyd Rose and a bloody pain it was. Damn thing was always messing up the tuning. I tried solving that problem for a long time but nothing worked. Eventually I replaced the 3 springs at the back of the guitar which solved most of my problems although the bridge was still very old. Like 10 years old! Simple dives and lifts hardly does anything but when you start doing Steve Vai stuff shit really hits the fan.
Try the simple things like springs, re locking the strings after tuning that kind of stuff before you try to make any significant changes. Cos you will be sorry.

PS: I found the EGDE / EDGE III bridges from Ibanez to be extremely tough. Those things were designed to be abused and still keep the guitar in tune. Even if it was 90% in tune, it wasn't a disaster because what you play after, still makes sense!
Last edited by BashirWahid at May 13, 2011,
#16
Quote by BashirWahid
I had this problem with my first Ibanez RG - it had the original Floyd Rose and a bloody pain it was. Damn thing was always messing up the tuning. I tried solving that problem for a long time but nothing worked. Eventually I replaced the 3 springs at the back of the guitar which solved most of my problems although the bridge was still very old. Like 10 years old! Simple dives and lifts hardly does anything but when you start doing Steve Vai stuff shit really hits the fan.
Try the simple things like springs, re locking the strings after tuning that kind of stuff before you try to make any significant changes. Cos you will be sorry.

PS: I found the EGDE / EDGE III bridges from Ibanez to be extremely tough. Those things were designed to be abused and still keep the guitar in tune. Even if it was 90% in tune, it wasn't a disaster because what you play after, still makes sense!

DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS MAN!!! He said an OFR was a pin to keep in tune but an Edge III is easy. Someone has been smoking some crack
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#17
The G is more likely to go out of tune as it's at a higher tension but that's all I know.
#18
@ DamagingExcess:
Do you always speak/write before you think? I never said the OFR was a pin to keep in tune. I'm no technical wizard when it comes guitars but that's what I did after listening to all the bullshit these so-called experts gave me. They practically ruined my guitar.
By the way, I also didn't say the Edge III is easy. I said its tough, durability, long lasting doesn't **** up when you need it in tune. But I guess you wouldn't know unless you actually own one.
#19
Quote by BashirWahid
@ DamagingExcess:
Do you always speak/write before you think? I never said the OFR was a pin to keep in tune. I'm no technical wizard when it comes guitars but that's what I did after listening to all the bullshit these so-called experts gave me. They practically ruined my guitar.
By the way, I also didn't say the Edge III is easy. I said its tough, durability, long lasting doesn't **** up when you need it in tune. But I guess you wouldn't know unless you actually own one.

You're credibility went out the window when you said the Edge III is durable and long lasting. And yes, I have owned a guitar with an edge 3. Rg4EX1, first guitar I ever bought
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#20
mine did the same thing,G string would go out of tune (flat),then I re-tuned and it would go sharp.This drove me crazy for some time.Eventually I took the middle screw out of the nut and noticed that the G string was cutting a groove into the back of the little square clamp piece.The other two were a bit worn,but not as bad as the G string clamp.At first,while I waited for new string clamps,I switched the middle one with the one on the E and A string with the groove over the E string.This seemed to help,but even now with new parts and two set-ups the G still acts up occaisionally(not much though).Check that out,those little clamps are inexpensive even for the better ones.I would also recommend having it set up by a pro every couple of years,Floyd's are tempermental.
#21
Quote by My_Login_Name
Why on Earth would a tech do that when it's easy to find replacement posts (Here on EBay for example, £8 delivered). Strings off, detach springs, lift trem out, unscrew old posts, screw in new ones, trem in, attach springs, re-string, set-up, done
It's not the posts that are the problem, it's the knife edges ont he bridge unit itself. THose cna't be replaced, they can onyl be sharprned but they'll wear down again, even faster.

OP, all your problems are perfectly describing worn knife edges. The only solution is to either block the bridge and not use it at all or buy a new bridge unit, one with steel knife edges that won't wear down. The cheapest of those is the Floyd Rose Special. They cost about $75 in the US but I've never seen them available for sale within the EU. The cost of importing one would bring the price up to about £80. The cheapest Floyd replacement you can get which won't wear down again is the Gotoh unit which will cost about £130. Sorry, that's just what these things cost. Anything cheaper will wear down again and you'll end up spending even more in the long run.

Frankly I do not think it is worth it for you. Buying a £130 bridge for a £200 guitar isn't economical int he long run unless you later sell the guitar but keep the bridge then fix that bridge to whatever new guitar you get. Even then it's not a smart use of your money. I woudl suggest that for now you simply block the bridge and don't use it, treat it like a hardtail guitar. Once you've got more money, sell the current guitar and get yourself a total upgrade, something in the £500 range should come with a reliable bridge. ESP, Jackson and Schecter all use FR Specials at that price range. That's what you want to be aiming for, getting your current guitar playable again (locking the bridge down) until you are in a position to sell and upgrade.