#1
Hi

I'm going to upgrade my laney VC30's speaker today, which is something i've never done before and this is probably just me over-thinking but i have a few things i need to clear up before i do:

1) the speaker i've bought (celestion G12H30) has these 4 strips of this soft material at the bottom of the box it was shipped in that look like they are meant to fit between the holes for the screws when you fit the speaker. are they necessary, and if it's an optional thing, what impact would it have on the sound?

2) are there any electrical hazards i should be aware of? obviously i'm going to unplug the amp from the mains and unplug the cable from the speaker output while i'm working on it, but is there anything else i've overlooked?

3) the celestion website says the bolts shouldn't be overtightened, and "hand-tight" should be enough, but won't that eventually cause them to work their way out? would "hand tight" plus a small turn with the necessary tool be ok for peace of mind?
Rig Winter 2017:

Fender Jazzmaster/Yamaha SG1000
Boss TU-3, DS-2, CS-3, EHX small stone, Danelectro delay
Laney VC30-112 with G12H30 speaker, or Session Rockette 30 for smaller gigs
Elixir Nanoweb 11-49 strings, Dunlop Jazz III XL picks
Shure SM57 mic in front of the amp
#2
Can you provide pictures of the described objects?

If you do everything you stated, there is no real hazard.

Hand tight in my opinion just means using a screw driver, no drills. On my speaker cabinets I usually tighten them as much as I can. They are probably warning against over-tightening in the case of the speaker cab being made of MDF or other low quality material.
One thing to look out for when mounting your speaker:
Make sure your screwdriver does not slip off the screw head and puncture the surrounds. They punture very easily.
..I was watching my death.
#3
Quote by timbit2006
Can you provide pictures of the described objects?

If you do everything you stated, there is no real hazard.

Hand tight in my opinion just means using a screw driver, no drills. On my speaker cabinets I usually tighten them as much as I can. They are probably warning against over-tightening in the case of the speaker cab being made of MDF or other low quality material.
One thing to look out for when mounting your speaker:
Make sure your screwdriver does not slip off the screw head and puncture the surrounds. They punture very easily.

i can't unfortunately as i'm without a camera at the moment i decided to ask celestion about it - dunno why i didn't think about that before.

they are warning against overtightening on the celestion website because they say you could bend the frame of the speaker. but i have checked more thoroughly and you are correct, it means tighten them with the necessary tool but don't force them

my amp has a hexagonal nut around 4 bolts to hold the speaker in place, so a spanner or a socket-wrench is necessary for tightening the bolts, not a screwdriver. i guess that means i have to take care with positioning the speaker.
Rig Winter 2017:

Fender Jazzmaster/Yamaha SG1000
Boss TU-3, DS-2, CS-3, EHX small stone, Danelectro delay
Laney VC30-112 with G12H30 speaker, or Session Rockette 30 for smaller gigs
Elixir Nanoweb 11-49 strings, Dunlop Jazz III XL picks
Shure SM57 mic in front of the amp
#4
I'm not familiar with this particular speaker, how could you bend the speaker frame? If it's flush mounted to the baffle board, the frame shouldn't bend at all. That tells me the frame is bad construction.

I have a handle attachment for a socket, it's essentially a socket screwdriver. It's much more nicer to have a nut rather than a screw. With a nut there will be no slipping unless the nut is sub-par.
Keep in mind, the surrounds can still be punctured or damaged with a socket wrench. Unless this speaker has a fabric surround and not foam. Foam is easy to damage, especially when it's old.
..I was watching my death.
#5
now i've got a huge problem - the old speaker is stuck so strong i can't lift it out. i can lift the whole amp up by the back of the speaker and it still won't come out.

urgent help needed lol.
Rig Winter 2017:

Fender Jazzmaster/Yamaha SG1000
Boss TU-3, DS-2, CS-3, EHX small stone, Danelectro delay
Laney VC30-112 with G12H30 speaker, or Session Rockette 30 for smaller gigs
Elixir Nanoweb 11-49 strings, Dunlop Jazz III XL picks
Shure SM57 mic in front of the amp
#6
It sounds to me like the speaker frame is sticking to the paint. I'm assuming the factory which made the cab wanted to have quantity over quality so they didn't wait long enough for the paint to dry.

Try to find the flattest flathead you have and lightly pry it out from underneath. Depending on the speaker you can do it from the top as well.
I'd say try some heat, but the speaker will most definately be damaged.
..I was watching my death.
#7
i eventually managed to prize it out and get the new speaker installed.. but i had to remove the amp chassis to get it out, and now i've got a lot of work to do re-aligning the chassis with the bolts to hold it in place
Rig Winter 2017:

Fender Jazzmaster/Yamaha SG1000
Boss TU-3, DS-2, CS-3, EHX small stone, Danelectro delay
Laney VC30-112 with G12H30 speaker, or Session Rockette 30 for smaller gigs
Elixir Nanoweb 11-49 strings, Dunlop Jazz III XL picks
Shure SM57 mic in front of the amp