#1
In fact ı adjusted the tune-o-matic bridge and lowered the action,but ı have questions in my mind about if ı've done everything right or not...(the guitar mentioned is Cort evl z-4 if necessary)

1.Should the both sides of the tune-o-matic be at the same level of height?(ı mean the big gears at the bottom)?

2.I've checked the intonations of the all 6 strings and only the "higher e" (1st thinnest string) was out of tune and ı screwed the nut up-and-down and found the right tune/intonation.However, all other 5 nuts are in the same line with the right intonation."higher e" nut is the only one which is so close to the neck when in good intonation.Is it normal that while you are adjusting the intonation the nuts might or will end up with mixed positions?I guess so.

3.Now the action is good for me; low enough but the 6th (thickest) and 5th strings make some buzz especially on the 5th,7th and 12th frets only when unplugged.You can not feel any buzz through the amp clean mode or dist. mode.is it normal or should ı adjust the bridge again to get rid of the buzz?I do not want the ex-action which was too high by the way.
#2
Its normal for the bridge saddles to be mixed around for correct intonation. Its like tuning pegs, they aren't all perfectly lined up. (I mean I guess they could be, but it isn't normal.) The Bridge should be an even height across. If the buzz doesn't get picked up by the amp you don't really have to change it, unless you want to.
Quote by Trowzaa
what specs is your pc? like how much ram?


Quote by Hydra150
[IMG]http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large-5/three-rams-steve-mckinzie.jpg[/IMG]


Quote by eGraham
3 ram, nice

#3
As long as it works right then it should be fine, but if youre getting fret buzz id adjust it again.
#4
Due to the higher strings being thinner, that side of the bridge should probably be very slightly lower to bring the strings to the same distance from the fret board. You should be worried about the strings themselves, not the physical appearance of the bridge.

Intonation, the chances are that if each saddle is in line with the one next to it then the intonation is wrong, as each string has a different tension and requires a different scale length to be perfectly in tune.

For the action, use your fingers to judge it, not you're eyes. If it feels right, then it is right. For the intonation, use your ears. If it sounds right, then it is.

The buzzing on the low strings may be because of the action, but may be due to a bent truss rod. Assuming you know what that is, if the next is bowed the wrong way (or even too much the right way) then the string will buzz at certain positions. The truss will then need adjusting, but very slightly. If you don't know what to do, get someone who does, because if you overshoot it, you'll break the neck.
PRS SE Chris Robertson
PRS SE EG
PRS SE Angelus Custom
Yamaha SF1000 (Both of 'em)

Laney L20H Lionheart
Marshall 1936 w/ Eminence

Rather large pedalboard..
#5
Quote by makutoid
Due to the higher strings being thinner, that side of the bridge should probably be very slightly lower to bring the strings to the same distance from the fret board. You should be worried about the strings themselves, not the physical appearance of the bridge.

Intonation, the chances are that if each saddle is in line with the one next to it then the intonation is wrong, as each string has a different tension and requires a different scale length to be perfectly in tune.

For the action, use your fingers to judge it, not you're eyes. If it feels right, then it is right. For the intonation, use your ears. If it sounds right, then it is.

The buzzing on the low strings may be because of the action, but may be due to a bent truss rod. Assuming you know what that is, if the next is bowed the wrong way (or even too much the right way) then the string will buzz at certain positions. The truss will then need adjusting, but very slightly. If you don't know what to do, get someone who does, because if you overshoot it, you'll break the neck.


Pretty much this right hear^
My gear-
Schecter C-1 Classic
Mesa Boogie 2 Ch. Dual Rectifier(blackface)
Avatar 2x12- v30s
And some pedals

For sale Minty Ibanez RGA7 seven string with tour grade hsc $330+s/h or best offer!
PM me if interested

R.I.P Ashley S. Jean
#6
is the truss rod adjusted from the bridge?
I am afraid of breaking it.As far as ı know it's screws are on the head not on the body?Pls tell me where the truss rod is adjusted ı need to know because ı do not want to touch it.There is not any luthier here in my city
#7
Truss rod is adjusted from the Headstock. The little cover with 3 screw holes in it covers the truss.

What kind of guitar is this? I have a Epiphone Silverburst Les Paul, and no matter what I do, I get buzzes at the 3rd and 5th fret (on my 6th, and 5th strings). I tend to use a slightly higher action and a little more neck relief than most people, since I tend to hit the strings fairly aggressively. It is because my 3rd and 5th frets have been worn down in those spots, so they rattle on the 4th and 6th frets. The buzzes aren't there all the time, in normal fretting I usually get no buzz, but if I really get into it, or am listening for the buzzes, I can pick them up, but hardly ever do I get them through the amp.

If the rest of the neck plays fine, and under normal playing and fretting conditions you only get those buzzes on certain frets, I would say it is fine, it is probably just un-level frets.
#8
The guitar is Cort evl z-4.You might not think it is a good guitar but it is the best ı've ever bought in 9 years.In fact the reason why ı am worried about having done something wrong is; this guitar is so good for me and so valuable that ı do not want to ruin it.it has the best pickups and best body etc. among my previous guitars.I like the sound of it, but the action was too high.As ı am inexperienced about adjusting a bridge or intonation ı tried to do my best about getting used to the way the aciton is with no success.It was way too high.I had to do it myself pls help me if you use msn ı can give mine.there is nobody around to show it to check if ı did everything right or not.The action on other strings and is good no buzz.only the 5th and 6th strings have buzz on some of the frets..

By the way, ı watched a video about adjusting action on youtube and ı tried passing a credit card under the strings on 1st fret.it passes neither too easily nor too hard which the man in the video says is right.it passes under all other frets easily which shows ı guess ı did not lower the action too much to make buzz.I am just a rookie about adjusting though ı have been playing for 9 years.pls forgive for mis-judgements of me.
Last edited by evlkrm at May 14, 2011,
#9
I don't have MSN, sorry.

Unless you do something very extreme in adjusting the bridge, you wont be able to screw it up (at least so far that it can't be reversed). You can however hurt it by adjusting the truss rod, but it is fairly hard to hurt it even this way. To me, it sounds like your guitar is fine.

The best way to know if you adjusted the action right, is if YOU like how it plays. There is no magic number, string height, intonation, or adjustment that will work for every guitar and every person. There are only rough estimates or starting points in guides to follow. The bridge does not need to be level all the way across, the high E side (the smallest string) is almost always lower on a tune-o-matic bridge. When adjusting intonation: if it shows on a tuner that it is right, and it sounds right, then it probably is right, its possible that before you adjusted the strings to be lower that is was actually out of intonation. Make sure when you adjust it, that you move the string a bit in the bridge's saddle to make sure the saddle moves to its correct position to reflect the change (I have had to do this with the cheapest and the most expensive TOM bridges).

EDIT: to your second part. There should in most cases be more of a gap between the strings at the frets higher than the first. The neck goes at a little bit of a bow (this is normal, Les Paul users say to set it flat as possible, but I have never been able to achieve this without buzzes, there is always a little bow). Now, Capo (or just fret) the Low E string at the first fret and then also at the very last fret, the same effect you had at the first fret with the Credit Card should also happen around the 8th fret. It wont be perfectly the same, but if it is in that same general area and the guitar plays well, the neck is just fine and no Truss adjustment is needed. (as an example) fender recommends a .010 gap here, which is usually my starting point for any neck, as I mostly play Fender guitars. But one LP I have uses a .005 gap and my main SilverBurst uses a .015. It is all about what feels and plays right, like I said, there is no magic number that works for everyone.
Last edited by Wylde_Life at May 14, 2011,
#10
Thanks everybody, and special thanks to "Wylde_Life".I lowered the "high strings side" of the bridge slightly more than" the low strings side".Re-adjusted the intonation afterwards.Everything seems ok now.It sounds good and it feels good.

*Buzz reduced - action low enough.

I guess at the first time ı adjusted it ı lowered the strings a bit too much.With your help ı did the second job with better control over the job and confidence.
#12
Good to hear
PRS SE Chris Robertson
PRS SE EG
PRS SE Angelus Custom
Yamaha SF1000 (Both of 'em)

Laney L20H Lionheart
Marshall 1936 w/ Eminence

Rather large pedalboard..