#1
I recently purchased a FUCHs ODS that was made from a music man HD 130.
The amp sounds horrible. I bought it mostly for the cleans as I was told the FUCHs amps had excellent cleans and overdrive. When I say Cleans, I mean squeaky clean. I have the master dimed and then the gain slightly turned up. The amp starts to break up before my 22 Watt DRRI!!!!! It also sounds very plastic, sterile, no warmth. I am using the EQ2 which is supposed to be the Jazz Channel. I have it in full power mode. If I recall correctly, the owner told me the tubes were biased a tad cold, however if it is already breaking up at such a low volume, biasing the tubes hotter will only make it break up more right? I am running the amp into a Marshall 1960A 4X12 cab. I have tried the 8 Ohm output into the 8ohm stereo side as well as the 4 Ohm output mon side (all four speakers) still sounds like crap. I have not tried replacing the tubes with NOS tubes, however I doubt that it will make much of difference. I am giving it another week and then I am selling it for a Super or Twin Reverb.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#2
in answer to your single question, yes. yes it will.

however just get rid now and get a twin reverb, there's no point waiting a week, it won't make it any better.
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#3
you should check to see if everything is biased correctly. it shouldn't be doing that at all.

mine stays clean forever on the clean channel.

do you have pictures of the front and back panel?
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
Last edited by AcousticMirror at May 15, 2011,
#4
Quote by AcousticMirror
you should check to see if everything is biased correctly. it shouldn't be doing that at all.

mine stays clean forever on the clean channel.

do you have pictures of the front and back panel?

This^infinity
Those are not amps that break up easily.
#5
It will take me a few days to get you some pics...(Dial up) However I can tell you what is there. Looking at the back of the amp from right to left:
Push Pull Trim Pot
Return Jack
Send Jack
Pull Series Pot
Full/ Half power toggle switch (The switch actually switches three ways - weird?)
From (Red cable) pan to(Black cable)
Standby toggle
Power Toggle
Fuse
AC

Front Panel from right to left
Foot switch jack
Reverb
Presence
Master
OD out (Push Pull)
OD In
Low
Mid
High (Push/Pull for mid boost)
EQ1,x,2 toggle (Three way toggle Eq 2 is jazz EQ 1 is rock and the middle position is most gain)
Deep Toggle on/off
Brite Toggle on/off
Gain Pot
Input 2
Input 1

Let me know if there is any more information I can give you to trouble shoot this thing. I really don't want to have to sell it, but at this point (and I am not exaggerating by no means) my Line 6 spider III 30 watt combo sounds better.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#6
i think its broken and cant u send it to andy fuchs?
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#8
maybe he sold it to you because it was broken?
Call me "Shot".

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#10
Yes I could send it to Andy, but that would be expensive to ship. I bought this from someone off of TGP. I talked to him today and he explained to me how the knobs work, however after about 30 minutes I couldn't get a decent clean sound. Tele straight into the amp. So I don't know. I might try calling him up next week to see what could be wrong with it. Hell, I owned a DRRI for 2 years and it just started sounding good when I ran a Boss DD-3 in front of a ITS8 a couple of weeks ago.

Here are some sound clips that were made by the owner.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#11
Why would you buy an amp that sounds shitty if you don't know how to go about fixing/rebuilding it and prepared to do such - and got it super cheap? What thought process went through your mind? I'm not understanding the scenario.
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#12
Quote by WesM.Vaughan
I might try calling him up next week to see what could be wrong with it. Hell, I owned a DRRI for 2 years and it just started sounding good when I ran a Boss DD-3 in front of a ITS8 a couple of weeks ago.

Here are some sound clips that were made by the owner.



#14
Here are the sound clips I forgot to post...look under Fuchs. One sound clip is through a marshall cab:

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=1077799&content=music

Again, I bought this off of The Gear Page. I listened to the sound clip. My decision was based on the reputation that particular amp has, and it sounded good in the clip. It was not super cheap or cheap.

This thing has me all F'ed up...My right tooth next to my big one is slowly rotting away. The rest of my teeth look like someone has taken a die grinder to them
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#15
Sounds like a damaged tube in shipping. I had the v1 in one of my amps (not a fuchs) go out, it would still make sound, but cleans were shrill and sharp, no headroom, and weak drive. check them out!
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#16
I'd go and get the tubes replaced, then go on from there.
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#17
I am gonna replace all the pre-amp tubes tomorrow...I guess that could explain it sounding very un-tube like.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#18
If the tubes are biased cold you may be getting a slight amount of crossover distortion. Especially if you are hearing it at low volumes and it sounds buzzy. Check the amp's bias first before you dump a bunch of money worth of tubes in there.

Also, no offense but the 1960 cabs with the 75 watt speakers sound a little shrill and buzzy. I was almost certain I was going to get rid of my JTM45 until I ditched the cab and put it through a different one.
Last edited by al112987 at May 17, 2011,
#19
yeah I am thinking the same thing about the 1960 cab...Okay I will check the bias first, does anyone know what they are supposed to be biased to? also does anyone know what pre-amp tubes are used?
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#20
Have you tried simply removing the tubes and plugging them back in again?
Gilchrist custom
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Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
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Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
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Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


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#21
I always bias my amps to 70% of the tube's max dissipation at idle. You will have to check the amp's plate voltage to determine what the tubes' idle current should be.
#22
12ax7s for the preamp. power tubes should be biased anywhere between 28-35.

that amp has individual bias for every power tube so take your time and double check everything.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#23
u have heck of bad luck with amps buddy... srs. i hope you find a good amp that works someday.
Call me "Shot".

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Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


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#24
How much can a cabinet affect the tone? I am thinking that the 1960 cab may be my problem. I had the lows turned way down yet I could here this flabby farting out sound. I am hoping that it is the cabinet. Could it possibly be a blown speaker? Or just a shitty cab? The amp sounded a little better when playing with the band but not near as good as my DRRI. My only problem with the DRRI is that it breaks up too soon for jazz and country.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#25
Connect it to the DRRI's speakers (or plug the DRRI into the 1960) and see for yourself. Don't forget to match the new impedance.

And seriously, try just reseating the valves by pulling them out and plugging them back in.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
Last edited by Cathbard at May 18, 2011,
#26
That is a good idea. But damn, my DRRI is in the shop (Blown Power Transformer<---any idea how this happened? Maybe I should start a new thread)

The only other amps I have are a 30 watt 1X12 spider III and a Ampeg 115HP or whatever it is bass amp. would any of those work in the above scenario?
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#27
Long shot but have you got anything connected in the loop? If there is a dodgy pedal connected to the loop then it will affect the volume the amp can reach. I can't see how that would affect the farting, flabby sound.
#28
No, I am awaiting a PDF file on the amp, though I guess I could find one on the Fuchs website. I have both the trim and series knobs pushed in and they are turned to 12 o'clock. Nothing is connected to the effects loop.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#30
i swear you have the worst luck with gear...
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#31
don't turn the master volume all the way up.

roll the preamp to about noon and then roll the master up till the volume you need.

You might not be able to get the amount of headroom you want with a tube amp at the end of the day.

A lot of the jazz guys used solid state amps for a reason.

Sometimes even 100 watts isn't enough.

I just played around with mine and with the master all the way up the amp will start distorting before you get to noon on the preamp.

you should be able to hit about noon on the preamp, noon on the master volume though. I think that's about the sweet spot in terms of power amp drive and preamp signal.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#32
Okay I still need to re seat the power tubes and check there bias and then perhaps go through the pre- amp tubes. I tried plugging it into the DRRI speaker and there was a vast improvement over the 4X12 1960A Marshall Cab.

I am also wondering would upgrading the DRRI speaker to a Weber 12F150:
a) increase the tone
b) increase the headroom

Also, would biasing the power tubes colder allow for more headroom meaning that when you do crank the amp you could get a louder "Sweet Spot" at say volume of 5-6 rather than at 2-4? IOW Does biasing the tubes hotter give a better sound at lower volumes and shittier sound at higher volumes? Similar to the way an efficient vs. non-efficient speaker works?
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#34
Quote by coolstoryangus
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Any politician?


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#35
Quote by Dave_Mc
ahahahahahahahahahahahaahhaahhahahahahaha



I don't get it...

I will bias the power tubes...I was only curious about how certain things affect tone. And you are probably thinking go search it out you lazy mother ****er...and I would have to play the dial-up discrimination card.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#36
sory, it's just a joke about tgp. they all want dumbles so they can sound like robben ford playing politician
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

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Et tu, br00tz?
#37
how do I adjust the bias on the amp? There is a hole near the power tubes but there is no way to look inside b/c of the angle.

Also the spring reverb is just laying in there....unscrewed. Facing the back of the amp there are two audio cables. one black and one red.

They are both running to the spring reverb. On the back of the amp from left to right it says From-pan-To. I currently have the black cable in the "from" input which goes to the spring reverb output (Has the letter B hand written there) The Red cable is plugged into the "TO" input and runs to the right side of the spring reverb where it says input has R hand written on it.

Also there is a down arrow hand written in black magic marker underneath the "FROM" input and a up arrow beneath the "TO" input.

Do I have these cables in the right places on the back of the amp? They should be connected to the right place on the spring reverb b/c I never messed with them. I had switched the cables around on the "FROM-TO" inputs and could not tell a difference in the sound.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#39
I tried out the amp again with my knew BYOC 5 knob comp and WOW! what a difference. WIth the compressor on and all of the pots pretty much dimed(compressor) the volume and sustain was there. It didn't sound all weak and didn't breakup like my DRRI does at such loud volumes. I was running like you said preamp gain noon and master noon or < noon. With the comp off there was no way I could strike the strings hard enough to get ANYWHERE close to the volume itl had with the compressor. Also I found that I was able to get many different stages of SRV type rhythm and lead tones by using different combinations of EQ toggle up or centered,compressor, ITS8, and a Boss GE-7.

So even without the compressor I was able to get good tones but the comp made a HUGE difference for getting loud ballsy semi- clean tones. Not jazzy squeaky cleans, but SRV cleans like cold shot, Love struck baby.

Which is great, I realize now that tube amps are not for Jazz (My playing style anyways using pick for single lines and thumb for octaves and block chord solos). I can get decent enough jazz cleans with a spider. Perhaps I should buy a higher wattage spider(or random SS or Digital amp) so i can turn it up louder without having to mic it into another amp.
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."
#40
I took the FUCHs to my amp tech and he said something is definitely wrong with the amp so he is gonna check it out. Also while I was there I was able to try out some of his Boutique OD pedals. BB+, Mosfet 2, Zen Drive, and a few others. I was most impressed with the Mosfet 2. With the gain turned all the way down I could get a nice rhythm sound, and then with the boost turned all the way down I could get a nice lead sound going. It didn't sound fuzzy like when I use 2 TS in series. Even his BB+ sounded a little fuzzy and lacked definition(I wish I remembered the word we agreed on to describe the sound).

Anyways, i then made a trip to GC to try out a used twin reverb. It excelled for country playing using the 5knob comp. But when I ran both my tubescreamers in line, I got the same fuzzy, honkish?, non-smooth overdrive I was getting with my DRRI. So to a certain extent, the Headroom and wattage is not a problem. It seems the problem lies in my ITS8 pedals. With one pedal engaged I can get the same rhythm tone I got from the Mosfet2 without the boost engaged, however, when I stomped on the second ITS8, it didn't have the sound I was looking for, the sound I was able to get from the Mosfet by clicking on the boost switch. So either I need to somehow mod one of the ITS8's for less gain or sell them for a Mosfet 2. Other than that, tone has been treating me somewhat fair which is the best it gets I think?
MARTY FRIEDMAN--"It’s a lot easier to be technical than it is stylized; it really is... But I think it’s a lot more rare to have someone who’s really got their own sound because that’s something you can’t practice."