#1
heeyyy, first post. woot.
anyways, i just bought a stack of about 150 sitka spruce soundboard (halves) from a guy on craigslist for 20 bucks. i know, not a bad deal right? =D
however, there was a catch. he got them from someones storage unit that was abandoned. apparently there were 6 stacks 10 feet tall each of these halves. pretty bizarre.. but he threw them in his trailer and took them. he doesnt build or play, hence getting rid of them on CL. they did however sit in the rain a bit, i think covered mostly. but some of the edges of the boards are damp/stained. theyre about 1/4 inch thick. also gave me a huge stack of paper thin sitka veneers. those were a little more wet...

how should i go about drying these? i was worried, but read that this kind of wet is better than green wet. i dont have a kiln or anything. we have a large attic with our furnace in it, but im not sure if thats more moist than outside in my shed or what?
it rains a lot here in oregon =(
what should i do? i dont have a dehumidifier either (im prepared i know)
thanks in advance. at least a few of the water stains look kinda cool.... lol and a lot of them stayed pretty dry, its mostly the edges.
#3
havent decided yet. im not sure its quality enough to sell much of. my plan was just to tinker around with some designs and ideas. i just got the wood tonight, and havent really gone through much of it.
tomorrow i will go through and probably sort it out some. id like to get it spread out some so it will dry better, right now its all stacked up. im not sure how prepped they were to begin with, they arent very smooth on any sides, but supposedly they are book matched and the matching faces are stacked together.

not sure how much theyre worth either =D
#4
i went through today and sorted the wood out a bit. There are a lot of great bookmatched sets that arent stained or wet, or just have a little darkness around the edges. theres also a lot of single pieces that are not bookmatched and are dry but may or may not have a little darkness around the edges. the stains on many of of pieces are actually only a half inch or so in, and could be cut off and bookmatched again, or left, because personally, its almost a sunburst look on a lot of them, and its pretty cool! i was worried i would have to paint most if i used them, but i may just leave it, because i like it.
also, the veneers arent too happy around the edges because theyre so thin. theres quite a few decent ones, but i think im going to use them to make pick guards, and sell them. gonna have to do some playing with them soon =D

overall its not as wet as i thought. i pulled out some of the more wet pieces to dry separately, but i may not need them.
#7
hehe yeah i was pretty stoked =D

i was going to do 3ply lams with the veneers, and cut out strat pickguards to sell, but theyre all bookmatched 8.5 inch pieces, and the pickguards are about 9 inches wide, so there would be a seam in the middle somewhere, and that wouldnt be cool =(
my just have to make epi pick guards or something. so much veneer so little to use it for!

i could consider selling some. how much you wanna pay? =p
spruce has very little grain, so bookmatching isnt critical, i could easily part with a few non bookmatched sets that look good.
but take a look at the picture, you can see each piece ( a lot of them are this way) has a sunburst effect from slight staining around the outside. i think its kinda cool, but wouldnt want any unhappy people
#9
yep, theyre 1/4 inch sitka. i wouldnt know where to start on price with these... lol
#13
That is an amazing find.  People pay extra for aged wood  because it is more stable.  The wood should be stickered which basically means you put spacers between the layers so that air can penetrate the stack.  It'll look something like this. 



When I stack wood that is already dry I keep it in bookmatched sets with the common side in the middle to save a bit of space.  Just in case you don't know the jargin a bookmatched set is when 1 board is ripped into 2.  The common side is the side is the side that used to be the center of the board so it was touching the saw blade when the board was ripped into two halves.  It's the side that will ultimately be what you are able to see when you look at the finished guitar.  Keeping the common side in the middle helps protect the side the needs to be pretty.
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